1998

125

Asked by nibiruan2300 Jan 19, 2015 at 01:05 PM about the 1998 Lexus ES 300 FWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

1998 Lexus es300
Owning this car for over a year with no problems.
On a cold night I sat in the car while it was started and running
The heat and radio was on and everything was find.
I turned off the car to conserve gas.
This radio and lights was still on.
I was listening to the radio, but didn't realize the lights was still on because they will stay
on unless the door opens or I manually turn the, off.
As it got cold again I attemp to start it but it would not start.
I then got a boost off and it started.
I let it run for awhile then turned it off.
The next morning was very cold and I attempt to start it but could not.
I then got another boost off and it started but none of the electronical components came
on (radio, lights, remote unlock security, dash board speedometer, power locks, etc.)
When disconnecting the battery jumper cables it ran but when I shifted the gear from
parked to drive it killed.
I then just left it parked and drove my other car.
Then next day I boosted the Lexus off again and it started but again none off the
eclectical components came on.
But now I can't even shift it out of gear from parked to drive.
It only starts with boost off, the electrical components will not come on and now it will not
shift gear from parked to drive even though it is on and running.
Please help me identify the problem.

11 Answers

30,160

I would start by having the battery load tested. if the car wont get you there, charge the battery fully then remove it and take it to autozone or somewhere like them and have it load tested. It would also be a good idea to have the alternator tested. when the battery voltage is bad extremely weird things can happen. Poor old computer doesn't know what to do.

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23,610

First look at connections that are causing or contributing. Next, take the caps off the battery and be sure it even has any water, then add distilled up to 3/4"inch from the top of each hole. Then get it on a charger. you cannot do anything else with a battery that is dead as a doornail, and if very cold means freezing or colder ? get it indoors to thaw it first. Inspect the many types of fuses and circuit protections in the vehicle, and the many cable and wire connections that begin at the battery, go to the starter and block, the power distribution center, etc. Inspect the battery box for signs of corrosion and wiring damage. inspect the engine belt for the alternator. Get some baking soda, some wire brushes, gloves, glasses, volt/ohm meter and or test light. Do what you can. if you havent time to do it or hire it done ? get a new battery and turn in the old one. .....Let us know how it's going, the questions you could have are pretty common.

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125

THANK YOU GUY SO MUCH, I really appreciate and needed you both input. So, my next question is : is this a serious issue I'm having? Meaning money economic wise. I was afraid of some electrical system or even a transmission replacement considering I can't even put it in gear even after starting by a boost. The positive side cable on the battery is rusted corroded and very loose. It's an Interstate brand battery. So I have to replace the cable connectors. I haven't check the water levels but will. My biggest concerns are getting it to shift from parked gear to drive or reverse. Secondly getting the electrical components back to working. I take it that the battery could be problematic to the electrical but I'm not sure if/how that could contribute to transmission or gear shifting problem. Because it is a Toyota-Lexus could it be in the design for multiple malfunctions to take place due to a bad battery issue?

30,160

Yes the battery is a biggie in these computerized cars. The computer controls almost everything. Without sufficient power it can cause all kinds of gremlins. It would not hurt to check all fuses and relays as well. Make sure of your ground connections too. Both on the battery and on the engine itself.

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30,160

It would also be a good idea to have the computer scanned for codes. If you have to remove/replace your battery, the codes could be erased, but at some point it would be good to scan them. AutoZone does it free.

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125

In addition to my first questions I did get two response but I forgot to detail that I attempted to start my car when it was already running. The engine is so quite and not much vibration that I thought I was listening to the radio off the battery while sitting in the car. The light will come on when you start it but will not turn off unless I open the door or manually turn them off. I assume the car was off when it was on and I didn't hear grinding noise until removing ear muffs and scull cap that cover my ears. The car did start afterward the same day but then other problems occurred. All of which lead to my original and first question. This was my first posted question: ( 1998 Lexus es300 Owning this car for over a year with no problems. On a cold night I sat in the car while it was started and running The heat and radio was on and everything was find. I turned off the car to conserve gas. This radio and lights was still on. I was listening to the radio, but didn't realize the lights was still on because they will stay on unless the door opens or I manually turn the, off. As it got cold again I attemp to start it but it would not start. I then got a boost off and it started. I let it run for awhile then turned it off. The next morning was very cold and I attempt to start it but could not. I then got another boost off and it started but none of the electronical components came on (radio, lights, remote unlock security, dash board speedometer, power locks, etc.) When disconnecting the battery jumper cables it ran but when I shifted the gear from parked to drive it killed. I then just left it parked and drove my other car. Then next day I boosted the Lexus off again and it started but again none off the eclectical components came on. But now I can't even shift it out of gear from parked to drive. It only starts with boost off, the electrical components will not come on and now it will not shift gear from parked to drive even though it is on and running. Please help me identify the problem.)

23,610

Clean the battery connections, check the battery for frozen. fill the battery. Charge up the battery. Then you at least have a chance for the car to run, maintain idle, and survive a gear change which drags it down. Since it is sensitive to rpm, either the battery needs the whole attempt to bring it around, or you need a different battery. Those are a good brand, you could take it to the battery's sales outlet for chargeup and testing.

2 people found this helpful.
23,610

Those cable clamps can be replaced with new from the parts store very cheap. once the battery is connected to the car, your entire set of symptoms WOULD change. Then you want to be sure it was recharging itself. If you boost with cables from a second car? Leave them attached for a while with the second car running, after having cleaned them to bare shiny metal inside the connections. Then drive immediately to the closest battery charger and some cable repair.

1 people found this helpful.
23,610

Starting the car after it was running would not affect or cause your current symptoms.....That would try to hurt the starter and the engine's driven gear on the flexplate, But once is nothing to be concerned about.

1 people found this helpful.
40

Hey nibiruan2300 I drive a 99' es300, I recently went through a very rough time for my car where i had to get jumped everytime i cut the car off. Replaced the battery twice and changed the alternator 3 times in a month. found out the stock alternator was not enough only being 85 amps. You need to upgrade to the toyota highlander alternator which is a 135amp. After I did this it fixed all my lights flashing and car battery not recharging while driving. Hope this helps!

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