Brake Lines Replaced

Asked by Sep 11, 2016 at 09:07 PM about the 1996 Jeep Cherokee 4 Dr Country 4WD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

The other day I was going down the road and my driver's side rear brake
line gave up. It was spewing brake fluid as i pressed the pedal. I got home
safely, got some parts to repair it, and fixed it. There is no leak anymore,
but I am not sure about air in the system. I bled the brakes as good as I
could from the lines because my bleeder valve is rusted to shit. I am not
sure but the brake light is still on on the dashboard, and the brakes still feel
like I have no brakes. I have to drop my foot to the floor to even stop. I think
I bled the system the best I could, and I am still clueless. Worse comes to
worse I will have to take it into a shop and get then to diagnose/fix the
problem because I have no clue what it is. I do not own a OBD II scan tool
so I can not see what the sensor is imputing to keep the light on the dash
on. I do not know if the system is fully bled, but I am not sure how to fully
bleed it more than I did. I had another person working on it with me, and he
is pretty smart when it comes to cars, and he thinks it is just air in the
system and I need to bleed it more. Also, could the brake cylinders be shot?
I think that could cause fluid to leak but I don't know. Thanks for any

5 Answers


I would replace the wheel cylinders, they have new bleeder valves and will make bleeding easier, Have a someone push on the brakes for you, pump them up then hold the pressure while the other turns the valve and as soon as the pressure is released close the valve before the person pushing the brake pedal releases their foot then repeat on all until pedal has come back to normal, I would continue until all fluid is new in the lines as old fluid will have water absorbed into it. You can use other techniques to remove air like vacuum or gravity bleed. Gravity bleed is the next easiest, remove master cylinder lid and then open up bleed valve one at a time while watching the fluid lever at master cylinder keeping it full at all times and let the old fluid and air drain out, when nothing but a full stream of fluid is exiting the valve then close and move to the next. There may still be air/fluid leak somewhere in you lines too.


Replace both the rear brake wheel cylinder not just one side. Yes they can leak and the rubber can weaken too and if one is bad both are to be replaced as one good one with one not so ggod will cause the not so good one to fail. Did you use complete new lines or slice in lines?


If you used the compression fittings to connect to the oem lines, I did 2 recently and found that the compression fitting needed 2 smaller o'rings one on both ends then the larger ones that came with the fitting in the center section. I bought them separate as they leaked slowly so I added those smaller o'rings in between the fitting and the flare on the line, one on both ends, and is still holding, You can find them at a tractor parts store used for fuel line repairs (brass).

I used a complete new line. We pretty much copied what the old 1 looked like, and we then connected, and bleeded it the best way possible. Prolly gonna just buy 2 new wheel cylinders, and have a weekend to completely fix it and will bleed it properly. Going to have to replace the other side of the line too because i mine as well replace the cylinders, and line while im at it to not mess anything up. Thanks for your suggestions.


Glad you used a full line and will change the other side too and both wheel cylinders. I think you will be able to bleed all the air out and get all the old fluid out.

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