I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring LX I am trying to find out why it will not start. I won't turn over and it just clicks. It is not the battery or the starter I've was told. How can I find the problem

115

Asked by Aug 18, 2013 at 07:29 PM about the 2001 Chrysler Sebring LX Coupe

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring LX Coupe 3.0L V6

10 Answers

may actually BE the battery as these are made from tin/antimony NOT lead and only last five years before they aren't taking a charge anymore~ your 1/0awg black cable that clamps to the battery connects to the chassis ground at the other end...take a coarse wirebrush and really scrub this "landing zone" for the 1/0 cable and the cable itself...will insure that 300 cold cranking amps are able to get through~

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Best Answer
115

I was told that the battery was still good. Is it possible that it could be something else? I have only had the battery for two years. What is the landing zone exactly?

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

the place where the fat-ole 1/0 battery cable attaches..."landing zone"...huh...2 cute then...just the place where you connect this battery cable....so sorry for misunderstandings~

the frame....chassis, sometimes the fender but the car needs solid ground to function properly~

3,655

Will the vehicle start with a jump? Was it increasingly hard to start before it wouldn't? If you are sure the starter is OK, I agree with JR that the battery energy is not flowing. Corrosion, cable damage or drained battery are thoughts. If battery is good just drained, the alternator may be failing or belt slipping. If you can get it jumped, an electrical diagnostic at your shop would find that culprit.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
115

I don't think its the battery I had it on the charger and the battery seems alright

2 of 2 people found this helpful.
115

I try to start the car and it wants to turn over but doesn't what are some other options

3 of 3 people found this helpful.

okay....as I have asserted the black cable (where it attaches to the frame) NOT the cable end but the other end...looks like you're going to have to remove that filter box to get to it, but undo the bolt that holds the negative cable lug onto the chassis and coarse wirebrush the chassis, the lug and put them back together...this troublesome connection pushes 300 amps and "welds" with every use....sadly this is the ground that the ECU and ignition and fuel pump uses~ so clean the corrosion to allow the full 300 cold cranking amps and SOLID ground for the ECU~....okay~?

remove the filter box...the black cable bolts there...wirebrush this connection...clear or unclear?

115

clear.... thank you

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