my car wont start
what year make model. msot audis don't start because of eitehr 1 of 2 problems 1. a vacum line is broken, or 2 the fuel system is not provideing the right amount of fuel into the system. the fiurst things you wanta check are the crank case hoses if you have them on your engine. second is the mass air flow sensor which if dirty causes bad idle or the engine not to run. then check your fuel filter it could be cloged if you have not changed it in over a year. also check to see when you turn the key on if the fuel pump makes the humming noise its supposed to when it prims the system. opening the back seat will help you hear this as the access panel to the pump is in the trunk. after this check the spark plugs make sure they are not fouled and that the spark plugs wires are not broken or sparking off other things. and after that check the coil pack. these are your most comman issues for the car to not start
It was spark plugs. Thanks. Now I have another question. My car is a 2000 Audi A4 Quatro 2.8--- I hear a wheel barring going bad (hummming) I replaced the rear ones like 6 months ago. Now I hear it again...how do I know where it's coming from?? Doesnt sound like the rear. Is there a way to tell if it's the front & which side?? And it wouldnt be rear again cuase that wouldnt make sense since it was not long ago. Please help.
normaly if you have 1 bad wheel bearing you replace both regardless if the other is bad since the other side is most likely to go out soon to follow later. the best way to find which side is making the noise try jacking the car up off all four wheels and on jack stands. BE carefull doing this as it can be dangerous if your car falls down from improper hold points on the jacks. then turn your car on and put it in drive let the cars wheels turn and use your ear to find which one is making the humming noise by going to each wheel in turn. you can have some one stop the oppistie side by holding it since the dynamic system will make the other wheel pick up the slack for the wheel stopped. for my car i took the whole hub out in the front and took it to a shop to have it done. but if you have not had control arms done recently you may find loosening the bolts may be a problem so may be better to have a shop do it since they can get the bolts losened easer then you will. jsut be sure to be ready to replace some control arms if they remove the hubs because torchs wll become the order of the day and this in turn ruins the boots on the upper control arms if they are not carfull
I have a 2001 Audi A4 Quattro 2.8 L. It will not start. I replaced the spark plugs thinking they were bad but it still wont start. It acts like it is out of fuel. I want to replace the fuel filter but I cannot find it on the body anywhere. Can anyone tell me where I can locate it and if this sounds like a fuel filter issue? Thanks
fuel filter is down at the gas tank. 2.8L engine has it strapped next to the the fuel tank just at the front of the rear wheel. The bolt holding the strap has a tendency to get striped where the nut is held and not allow you to pull it off. cut the bolt if you can or break the plastic at the bolt. use a click strap to secure it back in place after words. tho your most likely cause for a fuel issue is either the filter or the regulator has gone bad. Anything after that is a bad fuel pump.
hey i have a audi a6 and for some reason it wont turn over i thought the battery was dead so i bought a new on and the car is doing the same thing and the battery light is on like its low but it cant be because its a new battery what else could be the problem
where did you by the battery ? if you get a new one go to audi and buy it brand new from them i stress do not go any where but audi or vw to get a new battery for these cars. for one its cheaper and two its a Brand new not refurbished battery. And i would check your starter and ground cables as well as your alternator cables and grounds. And take that battery back to where ever you got it and get your money back if it was not the audi dealer.
I have a 98 a4 2.8 it won't start. It was in a small fender bender just hard enough to Crack the radiator but no airbags. I replaced the radiator. The car acts like it wants to start, it has spark and I can hear humming from the fuel pump when I'm cranking but not when I just turn the key on. Any suggestions?
try a reboot dissconnect your battery for 15minutes. might work might not
Need help..! I have 2006 Audi A4 2.0T my car wont start everytime i pump gas.. But only when i pump for gas, mind you i use premium gas only.. i have to keep pushing gas pedal then it will start.. After that everythings good.. It runs fine..
What is causing this problem.?
well considering pumping the gas only opens the air ways you most liekly have a bad or dirty maf or filter. im not sure if the 2.0 engines have it but mine had a throttle body temp sensor that would cause the same issue in my 2.8L 98 audi before i changed the sensor out for a new one.
What maf.? En which filter.?
mass air flow sensor (MAF) and air filter can also be a dirty Gas Filter. or the fuel regulator that causes this as well.
I have a 2001 Audi a4 , my car kept cutting off while I would drive it, then it would be fine for a couple of days then cut off again, start and cut off...one day it just cut off completely.....i while stuck in traffic all the guys that were helping me told me it was a timing belt which my mechanic told me it was, they said it didn't seem like it would be a timing belt.... So my mechanic "street one", told me it was that.... I brought a new one and he put it on and the pulley or something like that that is supposed to hold it, anyway he charged me 600 and it still didn't work.... After talking to other people I Dont know what it could be and I think he just ripped me off....after that he asked for some money sating it was a valve now that he had to fix....I'm a single mom and need car what should I do now....how do I know what wrong with my car even worse if he broke it intentionally or if I really need what he is saying.....like I saidvwhen i told a neighbor he said he didn't think it was the timing belt because it would have never kept cutting on and off...help
Hi singlema, I have the same problem with my 2000A4. At first I kept on thinking it was my antihijack, which I realised it wasn't after I got it removed. It will cut me off and start again. Now it does not start at all, it does like it has no fuel
Hi i also have a Audi a4 1.8 2000 model starting and stalling like immobilizer fault but it is-int immobilizer fault any ideas
i had another question i answered answered by another person they said something about a computer being faulty which was causing this issue. Singlema i would have to say your mechanic took you for a ride. If the timing belt was causing the issue it would a snapped and the car would no longer run. the only thing the belt would do is once it reaches near the end of its life it stretches out and becomes loose causing some minor idle issues and a minor lack of power when you hit the peddle. The belt needs replacement once every 90,000km along with the pulleys and water pump and thermostat. As for stalling issues it is either spark or fuel related, Vacuum loss will usually cause a bad idle and air way sensors will also cause a bad idle. I mentioned a few sensors before check to see if you have them and clean them with maf cleaner. Throttle Body Temperature Sensor will be located in the top of the throttle body and the maf is just after the air filter box. Do your selfs a favor and find a good recommended audi/ VW mechanic shop in your area and have them take a look at your vehicles they will be able to more accurately diagnose your vehicles. If you need help finding a shop message me directly with the city you live in and i will replie back with the closest shop that i would recommend for you to go to.
I left my car for 3days and discharged the battery before travelling. Now it won't start after connecting back the battery terminals. New plucks. What could be the cause?
your not supposed to disconnect the battery for any reason in a vw or audi... you essentially just wiped out the entire computer back to factory start now. Which means if you have an immobilize you probley rebooted it as well and desynced your key Ok does the car start then stall? if so what i said before is the issue. if it cranks and does not start its probly something else. Check your battery levels just because it is was disconnected does not mean it did not die. How old is the battery ? if its older then 5 years you are luckey it lasted this long.
Thanks. Guys.it was the bad plugs and clogged filter. Car is working perfectly
Deathjam4 Hey I have a 2006 Audi A6 it will only start a few times a day then won't start until the next day it's becoming very regularly now only twice a day then I have to leave it for over night and come back to where I was and then it drives just fine any ideas?
sounds like a computer issue try a full reboot of the cars computer and see if resyncing your key helps the issue. First disconnect both battery terminals then touch um togeather to drain the last of the power from the car and leave your car for 15 minutes. After your done put your key in the ignition turn to power on and leave it for 15 minutes. When thats done flip the key to power off then start see if that helps.
If this does not help try cleaning your sensors the MAF(Mass Air Flow Sensor) and the throttle body heat temp sensor. (located over-top the throttle body)
Okay I will check those out tonight. Audi thought that was the issue I got a new key and it still did it. When I take the power away for 15 mins that won't un-sync my keys right? I brought it to another shop and they couldn't find any issues it started just fine for them the entire day they stated.
It still does it. I have no clue
if its still doing it you may be looking at needing a new computer. Tho it could still be a fualty snesor or relay. Discribe a little more in detial what exactly happens when it won't start such as. Is the car hot when it wont start? does it not start after a short trip like say to the grocery store around the corner? does it start and stall ? does it not start and keep cranking ? Is there any engine codes poping up ?
It's really consistent I can get three starts its turns over fine when it does and drives with no issues. I go to work in the am no issues after work no issues then if I go somewhere after that and shit it off for more than 15 mins it's just turns over and will not start it has to cool down then it's Really Speratic on the time before it will start again it always starts after it sits for a night but sometime it will start after an hour or so. I just leave it running when I have a few stops after work usually knowing it won't start past the third attempt in one day. When i do it turns over like it wants to start and try's to fire for about 15 seconds then I turn the ignition again and it flashes a traction fault on the display while it's trying to turn over but doesn't store it as a fault when I have had it looked at. It has to be drove then sit for 10 to 20 mins after the third start!
The only thing I didn't do was throttle temp sensor I wasn't sure what it was or where
I miss labeled that i meant to say your coolant temp sensor, since i think they did out with the throttle body temp sensor in the later models. since my 1998 audi. The second likely will be the engine speed sensor aka crank sensor. I've been going over a few of my forums links i have and the coolant sensor i think is the most common for this issue.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_years/audi-a4-quattro-coolant-temperature-sensor-2006.html That is what your looking for it is generally located down behind the passenger side head between the fire wall and engine on the 3.0L engines. also before doing anything else go under your car and hit your catalytic jsut to be sure there is not a loose plate inside constricting air flow. Any rattling you hear will indicate a broken cat.
HI I GOT AN A4 AUDI 2.0 AND GOT A PROBLEM WITH SUPPLY OF FUEL IT SUPPLY TOO MUCH FUEL AND THE PLUGS BECOME WET OF FUEL SO WTS DA REASON FOR DIS PLS
Lack of spark could cause this> have your coil pack and spark plugs checked out. If that is not the problem then you either need a fuel regulator or new injectors. as the likely culprit
What do you know about the crankshaft position sensor
crank sensor once it gets old can cause starting and running issues
most often its not ussaly this but depending on the milage and what you do wit hthe car such as long continuos trips or in town driving can cause the crank sensor to go bad faster or slower. Normaly it does not go but can on occasions. If nothing else works i would try this especialy if you recently had head work or timing belt work recently
I have a 2004 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro Turbo. The car cranks but does not start but it only does not start after it has been running. I can let the car rest for an hour or so and it will then start. The temperature gage is always in the middle nothing else. It seems like when the car is still warm or hot it does not start. What would be causing this?
Hi I just bought a 1999 audio a4 stick I tried to start it but it won't even crank..all lights are on in the cluster can anybody tell the problem?
check the starter the main lead to the points probly rooted off
Was your last response for me Deathjam4?
I have an 06 Audi A4 Quattro with the 3.2L and it just cranks but won't start and if it does it only lasts like 3 seconds. My fuel pump was replaced a year ago and I hear the humming it makes. The code it's giving me is P008A witch is low fuel pressure could it be the Fuel Pressure Sensor witch is what I'm guess it is am I right ?
my last response was for ella. As for yours littledingbat your problem will most likely be the coolant temp sensor. it has most likely gone defective or the the wires have become brittle broken or chard. check the wires, harnes and replace the sensor. Only replace when the engine is stone cold kk. and for D try checking the fuel pressure on the rail. the main fuel pressure regulator is your most likely cause. Also if you have not replaced your fuel filter in a long time and you have been using sub-par fuel you most likely have a clogged fuel filter.
Helpppp i just.brought an audi a3 1997 it turns over, lights come on but wont start up almost like theres no gas in it but i know there is gas in.
ok well a good place to start is what size engine does the car have since the 1.8 and 2.8 have very different issues. alot of starting issues can be spark, fuel or air related issues. So once you post what size the engine is we can maybe help pin point the issue alot faster then guessing.
Just bought an 06 A4 Quattro with 2.0T, was having starting issues occasionally and the other day the LPFP just stopped turning on and hasn't since. I figured bad pump and bought a new one and replaced it. Now it has a new pump and still won't prime. I can crank the engine and it turns over fine but pump won't turn on. Any ideas beyond the relay. I have a new relay coming in on Saturday to try, but if it doesn't work I'm curious whato to look at next.
Its a 1.8 but it randomly started the next day and haven't had a problem since
micheal your likely suspect for a pump not working is the relay or the wires since its brand new. i would unplug the pump wire and use a battery tester to check the voltage. Should be 12 volts to the pump wires.
Braxton you probably have a sensor issue with the car which is why it probably did that. I would take the car t oa shop that has a rosstech scanning kit which would be at any vw and audi specialist shop. Some of them will even check it for free. If there was an issue there will always be a code and it will help pin point wher ethe issue was.
Help! We just changed fuel filter in our 07 Q7 and now it won't start. When you turn on the ignition you can hear it try to start but never kicks over. We changed spark plugs in November.
My '01 A4 1.8 has no spark. What could be causing this?
My 2008 A4 2.0 is having starting problems. Seems to be when I park it at a slant, like when the drivers side is higher than the passengers side, or uphill or downhill. I have to crank it 3 or 4 times and when it finally starts it seems like its not getting enough gas, I can floor the pedal and it barely revs up. Don't know if parking on a slant has anything to do with it. It cranks every time so no issue with starter/battery. Thoughts?
im thinking fuel pump myself if it has trouble starting at an angel could also be the fuel filter. Does it start fine on flat ground? and have you been ussing anything less then high octane gas?
Yes, when I park it at my house it's flat and starts fine and I only use premium. No difference in how much fuel is in the tank.
well another thing i can think of is vacuum in the tank and the emissions system. If you can jack up your car remove the drivers side rear tire and remove the inner wheel well. Inside is the emissions control box and the emission line heading to the front of the car tends to rot off also i found a mouse nest on top of the filter in there. its a good place to start. Also when your filling the car does it constantly shut off from backup ? as this would indicate a breather issue which is also realted to the vacum inside the tank.
Never mind, found out it was the relay. Called an Audi dealership and they said the relay goes bad. There is also a recall on some Audi coils.
glad you fixed your issue marley If you continue to have issues let me know. And it would be a good idea to check the emissions box as i started above as it was a super comman part to rot out or have crap clog it up.
Hey my car is completely dead. I was driving home from a party and my entire dash, tail lights, and headlights , and radio stopped functioning and just cut off. After that the car completely died and it took me 3 jumps to get it only two blocks home. Now nothing no lights no anything. About 3 weeks ago I changed the timing belt , water pump, camshaft position sensor and thermostat housing . And a week before that a new battery. I just bought the car a month ago . Car ran better but still was rough. And 4 days ago I put new spark plugs, ignition coils, mass air flow sensor and oxygen sensor as those 2 codes were on.car was running smooth but now it won't start. Could it be a the power supply relay? Or probably just a new alternator or starter? Please help .
Oh yeah sorry it's a 2002 audi a4 quattro 1.8 .
well normaly when all those things go at once i would say a ground is what the problem is. Start checking the fuse box and relays, But also check check all the grounds and battery lead wires. If a wire ground looks bad take it off use a wire brush to clean both surfaces and go from there. If you got a obd tester it should have a voltage tester in it. Or if you don't have that you can use a volt meter and check the battery and fuse sockets. the car should have 12 volts regardless of it being off or on.
I have audi a4 2001 1.8 v5 it wont start but timing belt still turning. Bit in oil tank its thick oil and inside not turning ova help please
I have a 2006 Audi A4 3.2 that won't start. Starting this morning, it cranks and tries to fire a couple times where it sounds like it's just about to start but doesn't. I have 3 codes I read that I'm not positive if they're related to this or not. The codes deal with Camshaft Position Sensor. The check engine light has been on for a while prior to the car not starting, so these codes may have come from before this issue. It has only not started today. Any suggestions of things I can check? It's parked in my driveway but I may get it towed to a shop if I can't figure this out with help.
I have a 98 Audi a4 2.8 quattro. Yesterday I went to start it and it had a little trouble firing up, its in the mid 30's outside, I drove it to the store and shut it off and when I went to start it again and it wouldn't fire up. I can hear the fuel pump humming, the plugs are fairly new, my air filter is new, new water pump, thermostat, oil pump, serpitine belt, timing belt. Anyway, I killed the battery fairly quick trying to get it to fire up so I'm having it charged now. I'm going to clean my maf when I get back to it, is there anything else you suggest checking that might cause it not to start?
Bahrmd Have all your crank case hoses replaced it will more then likely fix your issue. The 3.0l engines seem to have a back draft system that stops the car from running if the crank case is not breathing back into the system.
AudiGirl I would check all the air ways. Half the time the time the crank case hoses can get clogged and cause starting issues on these cars. There is also a temp sensor in the back of the throttle body which can cause starting issues as well. If your car is anything like mine replace this throttle body temperature sensor with a new one as its long past due time to change it. Also if the fuel filter has not been changed in a long time and you have been using anything lower then 91 octane your fuel filter could be clogged.
I have a. 2001Audi A6 4.3L that had rear end damage the transmission isnt working The car started for two months i tried to start it today after 2 days of not starting it and it will turnover then start and die out quickly.. Any ideas as to why it wont start anymore?
best bet would be to have it scanned at a shop for codes. Find a vw/audi specialist in your area if you can get the car there some scan the car free of charge. right now that would be your best bet. I personally don't know much about the larger engines since their is not many of them on the road. But im guessing this may be related to your trany issue. so have it scanned the shop will be able to help you more then me.
I have a 2002 a6 Quattro 3.0. At first I had to double crank it for it to start now it sounds like it wants to start but doesn't. I'm told that the fuel pump is coming on and I've had the crank sensor replaced. Please help
3.0 guaranteed its a cracked crank case hose. The 3L engines rely highly on the hoses being unclogged and not broken. 90% of the starting issues with the 3.0 engine has been a cracked crank case hose. Buy all new crank case hoses and have them installed. if you can't do it yourself find a good VW/Audi Specialist in your area and have them do it for you.
Hi my audi a4 cab 3.0 2004 wont start it sound like dead battery the engine dont sound too strong help plzz
if it quacks like a duck, it walks like a duck and it looks like a duck .... then its a duck... if your car is cranking weekly replace the battery. but i would suggest actually reading the answers above.
Deathjam4.can you help my Audi A4 2.8 97 wont start after a headgasket and waterpump replacement.It crank but dont start.the battery was disconnect.
disconnecting the battery won't do much. who did you get to do the work? did they have the proper cam holding tools? its altogether possible some wire harnesses were not hooked back up. Check your timing. Pull the cover to the cam gears and crank it till the fat hole is on the inside not the out side then match it with the other side. Also the crank should have a slit in it on top make sure it is lined up.
Took my battery out on a 2005 Audi A4. Car will not start . The car says Car push pedals but it still don't turn on. Help please.
removing the battery from an audi requires an alternative power source hooked up to the cables while you swap the battery. When you removed the cables all the learned programming in the car was lost and now your car requires a certified tech to relearn your entire cars system. this is roughly an hr job and best done at a vw dealer but can be done cheaper at a vw specialty shop. the only time you are supposed to disconnect the battery is if your doing a reboot but this always causes the system to loose all its memory settings. try this to get the car to start no guarantee it will work but its worth a shot. Open the drivers door all the way and put the key in the ignition turn it to power on (not crank) and leave it for 15 minutes. It should renew the thortal body adaptation, if this does not work have it taken to a garage and have them check the car out for you.
I have an 2009 audi A4 2.0T...it was flooded a bit...everything works except the engine) I replaced the sparks, the camshaft position sensor...It cranks and the engine is kind of working...chain runing slow, then dies...any ideas?
what exactly happened to the car before it stopped working? the way you describe this is makes me think you drove it into a pond or something ...
Actually I bought the car, so I don't know what exactly happened with it. I have cylinders missfire and and camshaft position sensor fault on the computer(but I replaced it)
so you bought the car in this condition? that is not a smart move... it sounds like it has the timeing out of alignment.. did you replace the computer or the sensor? or both ?
I recently bought my 2004 audi a4 3.0 and realized the fuel regulator was uninstalled. When I fuel my car up it will have a hard start(30secs) then starts and no more problems until the next fill up. The fuel gauge reading is also incorrect. Kinda stays at 1/2 way point. Could this be caused by the missing fuel pressure regulator and supporting hoses? I replaced the purge valve already which was faulty. (Stuck open)
yep it can cause this. Sounds like you bought a mickey mouse car i would get it running again and sell it and find something not mickeyed togeather with spare parts.
i called JH Motorsports. Great guys. They informed me the 2004 A4 has the FPR installed next to the tank which makes sense why it looked "missing" when I compared it to my 2003. All has been well since the Purge Valve was replaced. Its an Ultrasport so I'll be holding on to it. Appreciate the help!
Hello. I have a 2001 Audi A6 Quattro 2.8l . On my way to work today mysterious started stalling and died as soon as I pulled over. I had it towed him and put in a brand new battery and a new negative battery cable because it was very corroded. When I try to start the car, it wants to start and sounds like it will but doesn't. The. Volts are at 12. I checked my fuses and the fuse for the fuel pump and the engine module are not working. I put brand new fuses it and they still don't have power. I know the fuses are good because I put them in another spot and they light up when I test them. I read you posts above and will try to check the fuel filter and the MAF sensor and vacuum lines. Are there any other things I should try? Thank you for your help.
Try checking the fuel pump relay. Chances are the relay is fried due to your battery issues. Start tracing wires and make sure none of them are broken or corroded or over heated and melted.
Thanks Deathjam4. When I turn the ignition and place my finger on the fuel pump relay (372) I can feel the click. Does that mean its working? The fuel pump fuse is still not turning on. All of the wires seem to look fine and their doesn't seem to be any damage. (I added a photo of the fuel pump relay. It looked pretty dirty compared to my other relays.) I took my back seat cover off and had my friend turn the ignition and I cant hear a think when I place my ear to the fuel pump. I also checked the fuel filter and when I disconnected both sides there was very little pressure. Unfortunately I didn't have the star key to take the fuel filter off so I just put the cables back on each end until I get the tool. I also disconnected the fuel line that goes to the engine under the hood and there was no pressure there either. I place the tube inside of a water bottle and when I tried to start the car, a very little amount poured into the water bottle. I didn't check the Cam position sensor because it looked pretty difficult to get to and I would rather have a mechanic check it out if I have to take apart a bunch of cables and tubes. I have a feeling that it might be the actual fuel pump itself. Is there anyway to test the fuel pump to make sure it is working. Thanks for your help so far. I really appreciate it.
with the relay installed its simple to diagnose a fuel pump. Open the back seat and the cover over the fuel pump entrance and then turn the key to power on. If you hear the relay click when you do this its working, if you don't hear a long buzzing sound from the fuel area the pump is either faulty and or has a wiring complication. Normally the ladder is the fuel pump. Its easy to get into the tank. Pop off both lines then use a large dull flat head and a hammer to turn the lock ring off. fyi hammer towards the back of the car on the right side. left loosey, righty tighty.applys. Another way to figure out which way to go is Turn the clock hands backwards to take it off. The pump has a plug attached to it and a push tab locking it into the tank that is it. Look for a youtube video if you want to see how its done.
thanks for the help so far Deathjam4. So it turns out that my fuel pump relay is actually not clicking. I took off the cover to the fuel pump relay and noticed that it wasnt clicking. it was actually the relay to the left that was clicking and sending a vibration to the fuel pump which i thought was clicking. I took off the cover to the relay and when i manually closed the circuit and forced it to click, my fuel pump starts to run. I checked the volts where the relay plugs into and when i put the positive lead on the 30 (See photo of fuel pump relay) i get 12 volts. When i put the both leads on T and 86, i am only getting 8 volts. is this normal? i opened up the ECU box to check if i have power in the relay and fuse and i do have power at the fuse but not sure about the relay. i checked for volts under the relay connection and one of the wired gave me 12 volts. when i put both leads on the relay connection i am only getting 4 volts. i had my wife turn the key as i put my finger on the relay but it wasnt clicking. i put in another fuse that i grabbed from under the steering wheel and it didnt click either. Is it supposed to click upon switching the ignition to on. When i check for voltage on 28 and 29, i get 12 V only when i crank the engine. My friend is coming over tomorrow with a code reader so i hope that helps. I attached a photo of my battery and was wondering what the red cable was that is attached to the positive terminal and where it goes. I did replace my negative ground cable since it was extremely corroded all the way through. Im wondering if i need to replace the positive cable and that red cable. Thanks for the help so far. Hope this helps someone else as well.
Picture of battery with red cable
lol your over thinking this :P there should be another relay under the dash with the same numbers, pull it and put it in the fuel pumps relay slot. If it clicks your relay was toast. if not you have a wiring issue. and the pump generally will make the relay click on power on.
What would a wire issue consist of? Where should I look?
wiring issue would mean you have a shorting or broken wire, could also mean a ground is not connected right or a socket has gotten dirty or corroded interrupting the signal.
I am still searching for answers my daughter's Audi was giving her trouble .car would stall and after waiting a few minutes it would start and drive the rpm was higher than usual .I brought it to shop and was told it needed crankshaft Adjuster sensor so I made an apointment and drove it home but now it won't start at all ,it sounded like it wanted to crank over and I thought maybe battery is dead but now it won't even crank over at all even with jump box.....any ideas???
well a good place to start is tell me the make modal year and engine and trany type of the car. this will help me to determine a likely cause since each type of engine has its own issues.
Hi I have a a4 2005 2.0 Quattro my block had got flooded and my car got wet the comfort control module had got wet I order a new i program it bought a new battery be cuz it been sitting for a while and it wouldn't start cuz I thought the battery was bad but it still won't start I checked the fuses and they all are fine I hear the fuel pump click when I turn the key the engine make a clicking sound I jus don't know what else can be the problem in thinking the starter plz help me
if the engine is making a clicking sound it is one of 2 issues. The starter is bad or the engine is seized. When was the last time you checked the timing belt? and what do you mean by the engine was flooded ? do you mean with gas from turning it over to many times ? or did you like drive it into a lake or something ?
No where I had the car parked the block had got flooded from rain water so the car was sitting in in it
must a been alot of water... Any ways get your car out of the rain and into a nice warm place to dry out. Let it dry out for a few days in the heat and it may start right up. Its more then likely got water in places that it really shouldn't be in. did you leave the hood off the car or something when this happened ?
I had it sitting for almost a year now jus haven't been starting it up cuz the comfort control module had went
ah ok. Well your going to have to probly dig into the car and see jsut how much and where the water got into. THe car should technically be sealed but water can get in threw the throttle body so dump the oil for some fresh, check the power steering and brake fluid, and if the antifreeze is not green flush that to. Change the fuel filter and put some octane booster and some fresh gas in the car. Also check the Turbo and make sure its not stuck or sticking. Pull the spark plugs and check for moisture and gas in the cylinders and to see how clean the plugs are. (replace with bosch 4 point plugs they are the best for audi's) clean up the maf and check all the crank case hoses. THen get back to me. Its quite the list but when a car has sat for such a long time it tends to get gummed up.
Hi I have a 2001 Audi A6 2.8l. The car was running great until a really cold day. I let the car heat up for about 10 minutes and come outside to a bunch of smoke and a ticking and squealing noise. Didn't start the car the rest of that day. The next day I cut it on (it seemed a little slow to cut on) and there was a bunch of smoke coming out the exhaust along with a really rough idle and knocking(not hard though) sound. I inspected my car and I found oil on spark plugs. I changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and spark plug wires after being told maybe there was oil in combustion chamber. After doing that I go to cut on car and it does start, the engine turns over but it doesn't start. After enough tries it started and it still had a very rough idle(sounds like a truck) but it only stayed on for about a second or 2 then cut off. So the next day I go to see what else has changed and the voltage was extremely low after turning ignition on (at about 9/10 when it suppose to be a little over 12 before start up). So I tried to give it a jump and it seemed as if it was about to crank any second but I didn't. So I changed the battery, voltage is now where it is suppose to be and still, no start. Any ideas? I bought a vag405 off Amazon and it DOESNT READ ENGINE CODES!!!!! I did however see some of what is failing. Catalyst: fail Evap system: fail O2 sensor: fail EGR system: pass But for some reason this stupid cheap vag405 won't let me read engine codes. I checked spark plugs after trying to crank engine. All spark plugs have gasoline on them. Timing belt still in great condition had it changed last year/10,000 miles ago. Can anyone tell me what's the problem. I'm trying to avoid dropping it off at the dealer. I heard the dealer around my area is pretty great at "fixing" things that doesn't need to be fixed to run up your bill
By the way my car has 129k miles on it. Runs great, well.... It did until this happened.
you need a vag 409.1 cable you got the wrong one. You might be able to use it if you down load the rosstech light software from there website. If the car is having the issues you say only after a cold day start you most likely had something get frozen in the engine like a lifter. i never personaly had issues with the lifters till 300,000 km on my own audi and i jsut put slick 50 ful syntheic in to quite it down during most oil changes. But your defantly having a evap issue. Get the proper tools and rescan and post the codes here.
2 hours agoreynic3 Audi Hey i have an audi a4 all road it wont turn on unless i unplug and plug back in the battery, but once the car is on if i turn it off for 5 mins and the car is still warm it will turn on
Any answers? Seems like you know a lot about audis @deathjam4
If its a temapture issue its most likely a tempature sensor. Depending on your make modal and year of the engine and car will depend on what may fix the issue. Normaly i would say anti freze temp sensor would be a cause but the 2.8 has a throtale body temp sensor that screws up after a long period of neglect. So more info is required to figure out where exactly the issue is such as make and modal of the car and what engine size do you have and year of car.
I have a 2001 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8, I just recently got the Heater core replaced due to the last one being bad, I took it to a mechanic who been working on my cars for years. Anyways, so once he finished the heater core replacement we noticed that the Dash board cluster was now reading "Press clutch to start engine" But the car is automatic, and now my Air bag light, ABS lights are on, and my Brake light is blinking all the time. Any idea how to correct this or tricks?
it sounds to me like your mechanic may have jared some wires while doing your replacement of the heater core or simpley left something unplugged or broken. This according to my forums i frequent is caused by 1 of 3 things. Some one replaced your Cluster with one from a manual audi, the ecu has some how been reprogrammed for a Manuel transmission, or the transmission tcu (transmission control unit) is not receiving a signal due to it being unplugged or damaged. it could also be a bad fuse or relay. This mechanic you had working on your car do you know him very well? and is he a vw/audi mechanic ? he more then likely left something unlpuged or pulled a line when he removed your dash to your cluster. I would have them take the car back and recheck all the plugs and wires and make sure they id not snap or break anything when they did your car. and have a vw/audi speicalist shop take a look at your ecu if they can't find any missed plugs since some idiot probley screwed up your ecu.
I have an audi 4 all road 2002
Hi I had changed my stater in my car cuz it would start I checked my spark plugs everything good I checked my fuses everything good and the car still won't start I had it sitting for a year I bought a new battery the engine click but no crank some one told me it could be a ground wire I had replace the comfort control module but I think the ground wire not tight can that be the problem
most likely is. an improper voltage and the car wont start.
Hi everyone I have a major issue. My 2003 Audi A6 3.0 v6 engine code avk has stopped running and is stuck in limp mode with no check engine light when I put it to the on position. However prior to this a month before the front driver side fender was smashed in. I do not think that it could cause an issue but I'm unsure. But as of now it has an esp light on and abs light on and it cranks but doesn't start. I'm getting fuel spark and my battery is brand new. I've checked my fuses but nothing is blown. Any direction on where to start would be great.
3.0 .. I would say check all your crank case hoses and replace them regardless should fix the issue.
Hello i have an 2001 audi a4 quattro 1.8t and im having a problem, so i was driving and then all the sudden my car was going slow i steped on the gas and it still was going slow so i pulled over and my car was smoking so i let it cool down thinking it overheated and then i tried to start the car and it wont start everything in the car turns on but the engine its self doesnt start, so im sure its not the battery, but im thinking the sparkplugs but they look okay im not sure.
if your engine is smoking its most likely leaking something. A loss of power ussaly indicates a problem. Take the car to a vw/audi specialist shop and have them look at it they can do a better job then guestimating what the issue is. Tho i would have to say its most likely either the turbo or oil leak some where.
I dont have much money to take it to an vw nor audi due to the distance and service probally gonna cost about 800$ that i dont have, car doesnt start but their is deffinatly an oil leak i cant seem to locate it
1.8 normally has turbo issues with leaks and break downs. The turbos are roughly 500-800$ your really going to have to get the car to a shop locate the issue and have it fixed. Most garages don't charge alot for a diagnosis. If distance is your issue try finding a friend with a truck and a trailer or dolly or a uhaul truck or dolly would be affordable. Your issues are a bit more then an at home fix. Every one likes the 1.8's but they have a bigger quit Consistence then the 2.8L. If you really want to try and fix it tho go over the maintenance list air, vacuum, fuel, spark, and power. Check all around the heads for the leaks, They are commonly around the cam seals head cover and turbo.
My 01 Audi a4 quattro 2.8 will not start it just clicks the radio and lights all that works if it's not the starter what else could it b it did this a couple weeks ago drove fine all day then got in it to leave and it wouldn't crank the rest of the day the next morning it cranked and didn't have any problems again till now and we let it sit over night again did not crank this time
check the voltage. If its not the starter which it sounds like it is then its the alternator. If you have never had the alternator serviced before it most likely has a worn out regulator or is simply in need of replacement.
Audi a4 2001 1.8 non turbo after driving in traffic won't start it turns but won't start then 2 hours later starts fine what could be causing it ?? Does the vechile have a protection if hot to prevent starting
did your car over heat? the 1.8's often have a 4 point flange with a temp sensor in it that goes bad that may be the issue. Have the car scanned with a rosstech scanner and it should help pin point the issue.
No it didn't overheat the temp went to 98 degress it just didn't want to start then 2 hours later it started could it be the the ignitor pack or so.ething else?where would I find that sensor to check
98 degrees is not normal operating temp. Normal temp is any where from 89-94 degrees C Would be drivers side of the engine most likely under the intake. Just trace the rad hoses and youl find it. Some of the older modal audis had a temp sensor above the throttle body as well. Often this would cause starting issues as well. not sure if the 1.8 has it but if it does it will be on top of the plastic tube at the throttle body. Often in hot weather or the parked in the sun will this be an issue when it starts to go.
Hey Deathjam4 I am currently having an issue with my 2007 A4 1.8T. The car sometimes doesn't kick over while attempting to start it. I've had the battery and starter checked and they're OK. The times this happens is when it's been driven a few times and when it's hot. Could you possibly know what the issue might be? Please let me know. Thanks
i am not very familure with the later modal audis but it could be possible that a temapture sensor is what is causing the malfunction. I would try having the car scanned for faults as it should shed some light on the subject. Also try parking the car in the shade and then the sun and see if it does the same thing for both.
We have Audi A4 2003 and suddenly started to shut off while driving engine light is on then again drives after few mins. Today my husband just took the car out and was trying to start it again and it was dead. Called RAA they couldn't jump start and now we had to tow it. When we checked it at Audi they said it was the problem in Altenator and we had splits on our air hose and they said will replace it and see how it goes also the alternator we took the car to Ultra tunes which is close to our home and had to tow it. now this cost us $800 put the beating hose & alternator but we gonna give it ago. What do you think the problem is? Pls help?
breathing hoses can cause these issues. But i am willing to bet the alternator may have the brushes worn out by now so if the car is not charging the battery then its likely got a bad alternator. if the car drained over night it is either a bad battery or some one left a light on or something is draining the battery.
Hi everyone , well i have an Audi A4 2.0Tdi - issue i am having is that the car has no power at all, when i start the car it will be finewith power for about 4 min then the globe plug light will start flashing and the car starts to loose power, i dont know what it would be. can anyone help?
well generally when a indicator light comes on it signifies what the problem may be. if the glow plug light is coming on did you not perhaps think that the glow plugs need to be replaced as one may be faulty? i would suggest doing a plug change and see if that fixes your issue. check for fraid or cracked plug wires while your at it.
Hi my 2009 audi TT quattro 2.0 had an EPC light on and check oil or whatever i got the oil changed but the car was still having shifting issues like getting into the correct gear and accelerating. It also started to vibrate amd shake really bad so i had the throttle body replced and now the car doesnt start at all..the mechanic that replced the throttle body said my engine is shot but my car did start and rum before he replaced the throttle body..help plz anyone.
well the joy of cars today is they are highly reliant on electronics that need to be in sync. Did you have it changed at a shop that specializes in audis and vw's or just a joe blow mechanic?
Hi my Audi still giving me problem it start if I jump it from the start but not wit the key and signal light only work on the right and so do my head light wat can be the problem this is stressful
sounds like you have a bad wire some where your going to either want to take the car to a vehicle electrician or start looking yourself.
Question... 2002 Audi 1.8t 5spd started missfiriing check engine light started flashing which eventually stopped I ran the code misfire cylinder 3 checked it out oil in the very bottem of the spark well and on coil tip... Was told replace valve cover gaskets and clean everything (I wanted to do the plugs didn't have a plug socket) Cleaned everything replaced the gasket car ran like crap remembered I forgot to reconnect one connector..are the vac hoses I might have missed??? . Did that now car won't start..? Turns over strong but won't fire. Also coil harness connectors are brittle one kinda broke replacements orderd (but it did start once after gasket replacement) so could be irrelevant also I ran crap low grade gas for the first time ever it's still a half tank of it Any ideas
you biggest mistake was running that crap low grade gas... These cars simply cant run anything less then premium. It clogs and fouls the engine. Your going to want to drop some octane boost into that car asap and then put some hightes fuel in with it. don't run the car till the plugs and wires are replaced. Unfortunatly your going to have to replace the plugs at this point because of the fuel you used has likely fouled all them. Get the bosch 4 point plugs for the car it will run the best with them.
Thanks for the quick response... Will do i read about the octane booster helping thought it was bs... As for the overall non start would I attribute that to bad plugs and what about oil at the bottem of the spark well.... Valve cover gasket? I only remember disconnecting a big tri hose off the back of the valve cover and one electrical wire off the back of the injector harness left the from connected are there other vac hoses
well you may want to consider going over the lines again. Its very easy to get vacuum lines mixed up. And yes the most common problem with oil in the spark plug holes is a faulty head cover gasket. as for the plugs i would have to say yes they are likely fouled out at this point. I found out the hard way as well when i first bought my 98 audi a4 that these cars don't like regular fuel i went threw 3 sets of plugs in a a span of a couple of weeks before i figured out the issue was the gas i was using.
Update...... Replaced all 4 spark plugs one damaged connector and valve cover gasket still no start.. I started checking fuel components listened for fuel pump prime then checked fuses fuel pump fuse was good timing fuse blown!! Car stated right up Now there is smoke from the passenger side engine bay I can't pin point it any suggestions looks like its coming low off the motor? The Initial issue was to fix the misfiring do to either coils, plug, or leaking gasket... This smoke issue is new The car has been siting for 2weeks with 87oct fuel instead of 93 this and this was the first start since... I turned it right once I saw smoke
let it run for a bit you likely jsut got some oil leaked down over the side of the engine and its burning off. but jsut incase i would see if anything is on the exaust manifold like a peice of plastic or a wire or oil drips
It was overspray from penetrating oil on valve cover nuts on the headers! Thanks for all the help....... One more question this is my first turbo car it came with a podi boost gauge...... How much boost should I be making? It usually get to about 10psi before it dumps sometime 15psi tho... It very inconsistent Lastly sometime mid acceleration it will dump psi at like 7psi with my foot still in the gas this seem wrong... Just trying to get a feel for if this sounds odd it's not
well i have little experience with the turbo's and i believe the gauge may be after market since i have not seen one on a stock audi. How ever the turbo will very in pressure depending on the amount of air flow going threw it. But a thing you should keep an eye on is the turbo. they usually ware out some time after 150,000 km of use. and most commonly its the bearing that goes on them. so if the turbo starts making weird noises and the car has problems with idle and power on take off the turbo is likely near to the end of its life. They are not cheap and i Always recommend New never get a used turbo they just cause more issues.
Back again I have the worst luck but for 1750 and not a daily driver (2002 a4 1.8t with 160k) I'll chase a few issues before I give up.. .......... Car was running great with new plugs, wires, coils, response is better then day one reset the ecu and waited EC... Got another code 4 days later P0300 P0420 P0411... But the car was still running great. Mabye another 2 days pass fine today I put a full bottle of lucus injector cleaner in a half tank oops (last tank was 87 octane thought it would be a good idea) .... Went MAbye 3-5 miles car sputters out. Will only stay on under throttle... Put more gas(not a full tank still ) but I'm have the same prb
I'm convinced it's fuel related -- injectors, filter-pump idk
I HAVE A PROBLEM YESTERDAY WITH AUDI A4 1.8T 2000 MODEL I WAS DRIVING NICE AFTER THAT IS JUST CUT OFF AND I DID STOP I TRY TO START IT AGAIN THE CAR WAS SWINGING DOES NOT START BUT TODAY I DID START IT I DON'T KNOW WHAT IS THE PROBLEM
???????? Man I'm dieing for a response... Gonna start a my own question too pretty impressed you've respond this long
trent your last code issue is likely solved from this website http://www.audiforums.com/forum/general-tech-50/p0411-solved-90619/
as for the p0420 thats likely bad cat or oxygen sensor. When you fix the vacum leak tho i figure the first code should go away. Running low quality gas is and the turbo is usually the cause of a faulty cat in the 1.8's
I had those codes before the sputtering issue and the car was more then driveable. acceleration,idle everything......this sputtering stalling thing is new... And the only thing I've done is add to much injector cleaner into not enough gas which may or may not be the issue
I have a 99 Audi a6 quattro I changed my fuel pump, fuel pump scensor, and the camshaft scensor the car started and was fine I ended up not driving it for two days when I finnaly did drive it it didn't start sounded like it was not getting g fuel what could be the problem?
Here is a short clip of the issue. ......... https://m.youtube.com/watch? v=xx_ekrO8DMU
to much injector cleaner can actuly ruin your injectors but its hard to do provided you have a full tank diluting it with more gas should fix the problem. check your vacum lines and crank case hoses make sure they are not clogged replace them if they are. tho i think its probly jsut the addative you put in it so jsut let it run its course and hope it evens out. keep your eyes on the fluid levels and thats all for now. and i can't seem to get your video to work
jsk try checking your fuses and relays also check the voltage of the wires to the fuel system. and another good question is what size engine ?
I have a 01 Audi TT Quattro 1.8l I was driving in a bad rain storm, the car died while doing 70. The car cranks over, fired a few times but won't start. Now it just cranks. I've changed the Coolant temp sensor, and crank shaft sensor. The fuel pump makes noise when ignition on. Fuel filter checked. OBd 11 doesn't pull up any codes. Spark plugs and could checked. I put a bit of gas in the plugs. It fired. Now I'm starting to think the ECU is fucked. But on the same day I had fixed the breather hose. A bit rigged.
rigging a line shouldn't make much of a difference in running performance save for making it run better. These cars tend to have a lot and i do mean a lot of dash issues. have you noticed any weird artifacts in your dash cluster? when i say artifacts i mean the screen wigging out or having lines or dots where they shouldnt be. try unplugging the cars battery for about 15 minutes touch both cables togeather while they are OFF the battery. this should decharge the system and reboot the computer it might work it might now. my only other tought would be the car has anouther vacum issue that jsut isn't as visable.
Hello, I have an issue with my audi A4 avant 2006 2.0tdi and I hope you can help me. The car starts when it wants. Sometimes i turn on the starter and it turns over and over- a little bit slower- and it does not ignite. This can repeat 10 times and then suddenly on the 11th time it will ignite without a problem. Sometimes i turn on the starter 1-2 times without ignition, then the 3th time it will ignite. Sometimes it starts without any problem from the first time. There is no difference whether the car is warm or cold. The problem appear at any time in any condition. It is irregular, so when i go the mechanic we cannot check anything just because the car will ignite, or it will not start 2 times and then the 3th it will... Yestarday i was alone and the car didn't start even after 20 tries. I waited a half an hour, turn the starter on and then it started as normally as it should be... Do you know where the problem can be?
Sounds to me like this may be an ingiton issue. If the car does not have a regualr vw key but the key fob slide in slot its possible your remote has low a low battery so its not sending out the right power voltage. If its a regular key then i would say the igniton switch may be the problem (the part the key goes into).
Thank you! For the moment it's working...The key is regular. If the problem is in the ignition key and it's related with electrical supply, wont it affect the all lights on the board while starting the car? I mean i am trying to narrow the possible reasons... It's been a few days the car is starting without a problem. But it means nothing, because this problem is unpredictable. Thank you anyway for your help.
well this is the funny part with the vw ignition moduals. They are built roughly in 4-5 different parts. There is the housing, the key insert, the wire harness and the switch. Usually if any of these go it does not affect the electrical part of the vehicle just the security. The weak or shifted segment of the ignition modual will cause the security on the key to not read correctly and cause the car to not start or shut down. The same goes for those special audi keys where you essentially insert your key fob into the dash. These fobs often have 2 batterys and if they get weak it causes the key to not register correctly and causes the security to not start the car. i would say change the key fob battery's and see if that eliminates the issue. if it happens again we can dip more deeply into the situation.
I have a question I have a 2000 audi a4 1.8t Quattro it crank no start help plz
My AUDI A4 FY06 NZP won't start. I turned the ignition key and the engine didn't ignite. It sort of spluttered then died in seconds. Is it the starting motor or something else?
for both of you guys get a scan done and come back wit hthe codes that comes up.
Help please . I have an 1997 audi A3 8L 1.8L motor and about 300 thousand km . the problem is that in the last period when i start the car in the morning and when it is cold it starts from the first time and works fine flowless but as i drive for 15 min and it become warm it dies and the engine turns off alone and wont start no matter what u do and how much u try. After waiting for 45 min to cool down it starts from the first ignition and works again normaly with no faults . Remark : somedaysthe whole day nothing happens and it dont turn off. What can be causing this problem?
sounds like a bad sensor. Check the rad coolant sensor in the 4 way flange on the side of the engine. also try checking the crank case hoses for breaks or clogs. clean the maf sensor and then check for broken wires. There is a possibility that there may be a bad ignition as well. When your car stalls does it matter how hot or cold it is outside?
Here's what I found out on my case. When I turn the key on, all lights on the board switch on, and then some of them switch off. However, if I ignite the car quickly, without waiting for 2 precise lights (ABS and ESC) to switch off, then the car does not start. Sometimes these lights don't switch off- in that case of course- impossible to ignite- I have to wait and try until they are off. Do you still think it's the key? Or something else somewhere else?
If your having the abs light sticking on there is a possibility the abs computer or main plug under the car has burnt out. I seen another guy that had one plug wire burn out and cause a simalure issue. one good way to find out is have the car scanned for trouble codes with a rosstech software. you can get a cheap harness on amazon just make sure you get the right one for your year and model the software comes with it then you just need a laptop. other option is find a specialist shop that deals with VW and Audis only and they should be able to provide you with a report for a price.
Hi, was wondering if you could offer any advice please. My 2012 Audi A4 Avant spluttered and stopped in July and has not run since. I was advised it was a fuel system problem so I replaced the pump and filter . The fuel in the tank was cloudy and appeared to possibly have water in it. I had the tank drained and refuelled with Shell V Power Nitro but still no start. Was advised it could be the injectors so had them tested and was told they were contaminated so paid £620 for new ones supplied by the company who did the test . Put them in, the car ran for 30 seconds then stopped and wouldn't restart. Returned them to vendor who sent them to Bosch allegedly to be tested 2 months ago, still not back and they wont refund. Bought some used ones for £260, same thing happened again. Car still won't start. Any ideas what to try next please, I'm at a loss. I think some codes showed up , I'm just trying to find them so I can update this post. Thanks.
Well the codes would be a great help. It sounds to me like you had some one put something in your tank other then gas, either that or water some how found its way in the cars tank. it would help if you could describe the texture and color the gas came out of the tank like. Normally cloudy gas does not happen unless you of course fueled up at a really shady gas bar.. i think a good place to start here tho is to flush the entire fuel system and get some high tes gas in the tank. also have all the emissions lines from the tank to the front checked and cleared as its possible the water or crud could have come back threw there. also try checking the cilinders for signs of damage or carbon up blocking areas. A telescoping camera would help here.
Thanks for your reply. The system has been flushed out. The fuel was cloudy like old fashioned lemonade, I got it from a Shell service station. I contacted Shell themselves and they checked it out but denied any contamination. I've no clue how water could have got into the tank. It's all cleaned out now but still no joy. The scan came up with a few codes 4695-U1113, also 4698 & 4699-U1113, Short to Ground and function restriction due to received malfunction. Also, 5270-P0615 and 5457-P3049, both connected with open circuit or something like that. It's expensive to keep trying parts in the hope it will get it running :(
Well the first few codes are specific to moduals in the car. Its just saying something is not doing its job. those codes are likely caused from the other two codes. As for the other 2 codes they seem to be pointing to a starter relay issue. Most common starter issues in VW or Audi's are caused from low battery voltage or bad key ignition unit. to cover all the bases here tho i would say to check all the grounds on the car and especially to the fuel pump. check for signs of corrosion on most points leading to the computer and fuse box and clean as you go. Same goes for the battery. I am having a little bit of an issue finding your codes however so im curious what scanner you used for the scan and if you can maybe post a couple images of the codes from the screen during read out. All i know is u1113 stands for modal or computer problems. and the P parts of the codes are coming up as ignition issues which usually label bad key slot. say taking this on a wing and saying replace the main relay under the hood for the starter relay and it might correct the issue after clearing the codes.
Hi, I will try what you've said . it won't let me post any images of the codes on here, not sure why. I will update my post after trying your suggestions but I'm going on holiday next Monday so it won't be for a week or two. Thanks for your help
Lately I've been having problems with my car every time I put gas into my car it won't start and sometimes will start shaking. I have to wait atleast 10 minutes for it to start. Someone help me
if your car is having problems after gas ups you likely have a broken or cloged emission line or bad vent. what make modal and year you got?
I have a 2007 Audi A4 2.0 T Quattro
yep i would guess you likely have a clogged purge valve at the tank or such. Either that or you have a line rotted off on the evap system. Have the entire emissions system looked at and have it serviced and lines replaced as needed. The only other thing that could cause this is a glitch or error with the fuel guage sending unit (Aka the part that reads the fuel level in the tank)
Hi, i have a '1999 Audi A4 B5 1.9tdi', engine not starting. First, replaced all glow plugs (heater), changed gasket set (complete). The only way engine started is when fuel was supplied directly in the filter by using a bottle. can anyone advise for possible reason? Thanks.
Pump at the front or in tank? It seems to prime once key turned...
I got a 2002 model 1.8t my car it have some difficulties to start on park or neutral when I try to start it sounds like the car it's on gear and it moves like a manual car being started on gear help
im not very familiar with diesel engines but from what i know if you ever did fuel work you gotta make sure the the lines are completely primed or it won't start. when was the last time the fuel pump serviced or replaced and how many km's does it have on it.
The fuel pump was replaced at 95,000KM and currently reading 125,000km...
ok so that rules that out. have you checked the fuel filter? i know for a fact if they are not replaced regularly on diesels they tend to get clogged. if your wondering where i am going here i might as well just say check the fuel system from the tank to the front replace old filters check the pump voltage, check lines for signs of rot and or leaks. check the fuel pressure as well. i would think however that if you need to apply fuel to the filter tho that the problem lies some where before that. its entirely possible the fuel pump is sitting in sediment in the tank as well causing lack of suction.
I just recently purchased a 2002 Audi a4 quattro v6 3.0 that won't turn over. I blew a bearing on the pulley to my power steering pump a few weeks ago and due to the nature of the malfunction I couldn't reconnect my serpentine belt until I replaced the ps pump and due to not being able to run my alternator for a couple of weeks and charge the battery by conventional means my battery just gradually lost charge from going in and out of the car or running dome lights. Fast forward to a few days ago, I needed to move the vehicle to my shop space witch sits about 200yds away atop a rather steep incline so instead of pushing it my friend and I decided we could just pull the battery for an afternoon and let it charge. After reinstalling the battery the car now has only dash lights that come on, that annoying 'door ajar' tone, dome light's and headlights don't work nor do the seat adjustment controls or any other auxilery functions. Now, onto the headlining issue, when I turn the key in the ignition I get no reaction from the fuel pump or even a sound like it's trying to turn over. I get no clicking or anything, the only reaction I get by turning the ignition are the dash indicators that appear when the key is in 2nd/3rd position. Does anyone have any insight into my predicament? Thank you in advance
perhaps try cleaning the battery connectors and poles. Also maybe check for signs of corrosion in the computer harness wire plugins under the hood. check all the fuses and relays as well. If you did not hook the little wire back to the alternator this can happen as well.
Cleaned the terminals and and checked for corrosion anywhere that might be causing my problem on top of checking and double checking all my fuses and they all check out, I have yet to check my relays and will be able to tell if the fault is there tomorrow afternoon but I was skimming through this thread and recall reading something about the cars computer wiping all of its codes when removed from a power source and that I might have to realign something?
yep the throttle body. Disconnecting just makes the car reboot to a factory setting. so you likely will need to reset all your power options such as power windows and radio and such. so make sure you have the radio code handy.
Me again, Audi A4 B5 1.9Tdi, managed to start after priming the lines. After driving a few kilometers, strange rattling noise started from the engine. I stopped and had it hauled to a garage. Any ideas of what might be the problem?
a rattling noise can be anything from a loose bolt to a lose mount. heat shields are always comeing loose on these cars and making rattling noises
Removed the front panel an engine cover, checked and saw that the valve is making contact with the camshaft as seen in photo, third one from the back. Timing problem maybe?
.. well first off that has a liquid gasket on it this is like a huge no no always use proper gaskets they cost the same amount as that tube of crap. second the came is supposed to touch the followers other wise it would not work
The red liquid thing is a type of glue, the gasket is present, the glue just to prevent leaks.But it seems that the 'touching' is happening to early...
if the touching happens to early then you likely have a bent valve.
Wow! Very knowledgeable so Im dying to hear your advice. 06 a4 2.0T. If i do alot of errands sit in a drive thru or run in a place and run out. The car has trouble starting. The RPM is erratic and cuts off. If I tap the gas it acts as if its not getting any fuel. Let car cool down it cranks and runs like nothing happened but CEL has come on and stayed. Code P0089 and P2293.
those my dear are all codes for a fuel pressure regulator. which would likely indicate it is not functioning properly any more. You will need a shop to do this job for you as it involves dissembling the fuel lines under the hood. find a good audi/vw shop in your area and have the fuel pressure regulator replaced and while your there have them replace the fuel filter as the fuel system will be apart any ways and its likely dirty at this point. the replacments should only cost roughly 100$ -400$ depending on the parts and labor costs of the garage. also i would have the crank case hoses looked at as well to make sure there is no breaks or clogs from sludge.
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