Help with identifying engine or gear box support are ok
Those that have been following my restoration will note that I have MAINLY solved the knocking noise problem ( track rods, shocks, drag link etc.) but now have a new problem that MAY be the engine or gearbox supports,
When I listen in the engine compartment the engine is smooth and quiet,
When I listen under the engine bay with someone going through the gears, all is quiet and smooth.
BUT when I'm inside the car I have a "Swishing/ vibrating " sound, It sounds like the engine or gearbox is NEARLY touching but not actually touching the underneath. Like it is a fraction of an inch away and transferring the vibration sound???.
Is there a way of measuring/ checking the supports to check/ free/ isolate this problem.
Thanks again, I've previously asked 18 questions to get this car up to standard and Im almost there.
Grab your mechanics stethoscope, use the sound rod and place it where you think it is coming from and keep moving until you get right on it, believe me you will know when your there. Just a hunch, but have you tried just putting a slight amount of pressure on the accelerator pedal when you hear this noise?
Thanks tennishoes ill go into the garage today Saturday and start listening, im not sure exactly what you meant by the accelerator bit, but I assume its when driving and trying to see if any engine speed or torque has an effect.. Ill assume you mean to listen both through the floor pan and frpm undernesth? as I said it dounds as if the motor or gearbox is "transfering" vibration sounds ratjer than actuslly "rubbing" on the frame etc by listen, I assume you mean to the chasdis as well as through the floor pan? I can get the car up on wheel ramps leaving enough space to slide under while its running
Tennishoes, have you Ny idea what the space between the motor and the frsme should be, mine seems to be almost tou hing (but not) Thanks Neil
I don't know the clearance of motor to frame but I do know that it shouldn't touch the frame, your motor mounts could have gone flat, just due to age, but if they get oil saturated then they tend to fail a lot sooner, it just might be a good idea to change the motor and trans mounts just due to the age of the car. As far as the throttle, I have had some of the older ford products that had rod linkage the worked the throttle transfer vibrations right into the foot feed, it would go away if you put just a little pressure on the pedal, the only way to cure it was to replace all the bushings in the linkage assembly, if you can't find a bushing kit anymore, you can put on a later model cable throttle cable and pedal assembly with only some minor modifications. FYI while you are under there take a look at the body mounts too they are made of some good stuff from the factory but go soft over time.
Thanks Tennishoes, Togdther with your previous answer it will give me a bit more confidence, As id said a long time ago, buying a car without seeing it was a mistake but ive now spent about £5000 ($8000) on top of the purchace price and the car has finally passed a British safety test so it could be the .final thrust as im now looking at more superficial .aspects thanks all who have got me this far. Dont give up giving advice, im awzre some of my questios may dound a bit naive. You and others over the past 1, 1"2 years has got me thisfar
Looking for a Used Thunderbird in your area?
CarGurus has 1,073 nationwide Thunderbird listings starting at $6,950.
Search Ford Thunderbird Questions
Ford Thunderbird Experts
Related Models For Sale
Used Cars For Sale