Can any one help me please. I have a Toyota 1993 Camry Engine, 5S FE , that wont start. theres No spark. new cap and rotor. coil resistance seems ok. theres power to coil and igniter but no signal to coil or ignighter. AC voltage at distributor cam shaft sensor measures a good AC 0.2v at pins 3 and 4 ( CS2) , but pins 1 and 2 (CS1 is bearly reaching 0.1 V I have a felling that 0.1v is not enough would this be correct?

Asked by Paul Jan 25, 2020 at 08:23 PM about the 1993 Toyota Camry

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

1993 Toyota Camry won't start

10 Answers

15,900

Cranking Ac voltages created by a distributor pick up coil should be about .5 to 1.0 volts AC. Make sure the volt meter is set to AC Volts. Try this. Using a 12 volt test light...probe IG- At under hood Diagnostic Connector.....with the point of the test light...connect the alligator clip to ground. The test light should BLINK when you crank the engine over, No Blink?...you might have a bad Igniter. Get back with results.

15,900

A Dist. Pickup Coil should be able to produce about .5 to 1.0 volts AC cranking. Suggest testing IG- at the Diagnostic Connector under hood driver side. Probe IG- with test light to ground. Light should blink while engine cranks. Get back with results.

1 people found this helpful.
15,900

PRB...did you ever resolve the issue with this vehicle?

Hi I checked the IG at the diagnostics plug and the test light was pulsing. Ive put a new disrtibutor in it but it made no difference. I went looking for the cam shaft sensor and cleaned around and few plugs dissconecting them and reconnecting them to see if there might be a dry plg with bad contacs and to my surprise it started. but by the time i went to wash my hands and came back it had stopped again. this went on all day today. I cleaned around very drity injector plugs and again disconting plugs and reconting them as it seemed like may be a bad connection. it started a few tims but stopped after about 5 mins. the last time it lasted about 15 mins but then just stopped. I have a feeling its the cam shaft sensor. Tomorrow I will try to start it and get it up the road to me service machanic so he can use diagnotics on it and change the cam shaft sensor if necessacary. I dont have the tools and cant even find it. I suspect it may be in a position that I will not be able to acess, thank you for your help and I will let you know what it turns out to be

15,900

If the test light blinks while the engine is cranking...that proves that everything in the PRIMARY side of the ignition system is good. Crank sensors...pickup coils wiring ignition switch etc function. The problem is most likely the Secondary windings in the Ignition Coil. Suggest you replace ignition coil. Testing the ignition coil should yeild ....about 1/2 ohm in the primary windings.....about 5- 8k ohms in the Secondary. Get back with results.

15,900

Btw.....that Camshaft Sensor you are looking for is probably in the Distributor. If you have injector pusles...it .......the CS is good.

Yesterday it started a few times and ran for about 5 minutes then it just stopped. At one time when I went to restart it the engine light did not come on. I turned it off waited a few minutes then tried to start it again engine light came on and it started

15,900

If you are referring to the CEL...Check Engine light.....Not coming on when the key is in the ON position, and the engine is NOT running....that is a Computer issue...and...possibly the root cause of the problem. Suggestion......the Computer should be behind the Clove Box...Drop the computer and disconnect the connectors....inpect for moisture...corrosion....reconnect. Make sure the Ign. Is in the OFF position before you start this inspection.

15,900

Paul...did you ever resolve the issue with this vehicle?

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