1999 Honda Civic Dies while driving
i have a 1999 honda civic ex which has 165,000 miles. Within the last few months the car will shutoff while driving. i have no power steering, nothing. i have to pull the car to side of the road and put the car in nuetral to start. Sometimes it will start right away and other times it will take about 5 to 10 turns of the ignition. I brought it to the mechanic and he replaced the battery and battery end and the coalate temp sensor. work fine for a few days and then the same thing happened
My car has been doing the same thing! Have replaced ignition, timing belt, battery, spark plugs. Died 3 times yesterday and had to wait 5 minutes to restart. if you find out what this is please let me know!
im pretty sure its the ignition coil.. i have a 98 integra that will just shut off while driving. lights and radio stay on but no motor. it is an automatic. take about 5 minutes of turning over before it will.. seems like it does it when it gets warm.. i will have coil changed monday.. if anyone know whats wrong message me at firstname.lastname@example.org thanks.
had a 1993 honda civic lx same problem, i replaced the whole distrbuter , has not died once since then.
I have the same problem, I have changed the ignition coil, main relay,fuel filter, plugs, wires, dist cap and roter and the fun still persists. The car will start then will shut off after running a whyle and will not start. Im thinking fuel pump now
What was the problem with your car?
to jason77777 you should try replacing the coolant temp sensor this is a problem that i had with my civic and it fixed it forever after i replaced all the stuff you replaced. as well. i bought a fuel pump $100 from napa (non-returnable part) and it still didnt fix it. buy the coolant temp sensor about $10 and save your self the hastle. good luck!
The distributor sounds about right... if it keeps dying after you get the ignition coil changed I would definitely do the distributor next.
did you ever get it fixed?
Armando Sanchez Mortgage Banker/ Realtor Had the same problem. Main relay >40$ You can also do a search and take it apart to resolder the board in there. The thing is usually up under dash, look up from foot area, about 3/4 size pack of cigs. black and should be marked relay main. The metal soldering cracks, and when the cracks expand from heat a connection will be lost. On mine the fuel pump, which i could tell because no whirring noise from the trunk sometimes at startup, sounds like you have the same dealio • The top suspect, based on the symptoms and the odds, is the main relay (basically, the fuel pump relay). See the sources for further information. Your suspicion of the ignition switch was a good one, though.
change the/distributor/alternator and check the high tension wires for cuts, if you see any damage just buy a new set...you have to change the spark plugs if you have to..you should replace the whole igniton system too, not just the ignition coil...even if you have the temp sensor, it wont do any good...it will not be helpful with just changing the batteries and the sensor...cheap repairs only supress the problems and sooner or later it will all come back haunting you...id rather spend more to make sure that the problem goes away for good...
i had the same problem before...and im glad it was only the distributor...i had to make sure so i also got new wires...no prob eversince...and if in your case would be just the fuel pump, i would just take it out and get it cleaned...or posibly i'll just get a new fuel pump...check the relay too, if you have to re-solder something, just do so...
i know someone mentioned they replaced their ignition switch, but i gotta tell ya, my car was doing the SAME EXACT thing, like every other day or so, sometimes more than once! And i thought it had something to do with the new stereo i just put in, the wiring or something... well nope, apparently honda has a recall on their ignition switches. Mine was replaced about 3 weeks ago and my car hasn't died once!Its worth it to check it out. Its free when you take it to a honda dealer :)
am having the same Problem as everyone else does. This Car will just stop running while driving. It will start after 5-10 minutes. I replaced Complete Distributor, Wires, Plugs & Fuel Filter. I bought all OEM parts from Honda Dealer. After replacing all these parts, car still have the same problem. I bought the Ignition from Honda and It re-keyed but did not replace it yet. When I got ready to replace the ignition, I realized that vehicle has AFTERMARKET Alarm (VIPER) which had Ignition Kill Relay. I disconnected the Ignition Kill Relay & NEVER had anymore Problem after that. Guys make sure the car is not Equipped with aftermarket Alarm.
i am having the same Problem as everyone else does. This Car will just stop running while driving. It will start after 5-10 minutes. I replaced Complete Distributor, Wires, Plugs & Fuel Filter. I bought all OEM parts from Honda Dealer. After replacing all these parts, car still have the same problem. I bought the Ignition from Honda and It re-keyed but did not replace it yet. When I got ready to replace the ignition, I realized that vehicle has AFTERMARKET Alarm (VIPER) which had Ignition Kill Relay. I disconnected the Ignition Kill Relay & NEVER had anymore Problem after that. Guys make sure the car is not Equipped with aftermarket Alarm.
Check Honda dealer for recall on bad ignition switch
It almost sounds like the igniter module only mine only turned on once after the igniter module died, but theres a chance. To replace it take off the cap and the little protection cover and take a look near the bottom of your distributer theres will be 4 wires (generally behind the rotor) that connect to a square plate with a mounting bracket, that is the igniter module. to remove it there will be two bolts on the under side of the distributer that go right into the mount take those out unplug the wires and pull out the igniter module then replace it. All the distributers are different but thats exactly what its like on an ef (1988-1991 civic) it will be alot similar on your civic. Oh btw dont go buy it new go and get it used from a wrecker other ways its really expensive
I am in the process of swapping distributors over for the fault that i am driving along and my car dies and then starts 2-3 attempts after about 3 min. I have had the fuel pump spark plugs and cabels done If it is not distributor some of the models like min 1999 1.4 civic sports have a seperate crank shaft sensor which can also cause similar problems fingers crossed I get the problem solved no car doing my head in
Try replacing the distributor and the little rotor on it as well.
This was kind of a rare case, but just recently I had the same symptoms with my Toyota Tacoma. After replacing ignition coils, spark plugs/wires, intake hose, fuel filter...but when I went to replace the fuel filter, I found a dent in the bottom of my fuel tank that was pushing the fuel filter above the level of the gasoline (I had just under a half tank). May be worth checking before buying any replacement parts!
Crank Shaft sensor Honda dealer part only £ 110 this was changed and problem was solved and have had no problems with it since.
Mine is doing the same thing! So what is the conclusion? I have brand new spark plugs and a new battery and it still happens. Can anyone pin-point the exact thing that needs to be fixed. I thought this had to do with my car getting hot, because it would happen in the summer. But it just happened today (February) in Utah on a cold day, so now I'm not sure.
I have the same problem, already i have a Honda Civic 1994, even though i replace the engine from carp-orator to Injection.
My car is doing the exact same thing, I replaced the fuel pump, distributor,, spark plugs, air filter, and it still died. Now it has been sitting in my parking lot not starting for about a week and a half a few honda mechanics called me and told me it's the fuel pump relay box or something like that so i'll be replacing that within the next few days.
Honda had a recall on that issue.just under the exhoust theres is some wires that rounds to cose to the exh and rubs against the manefold and it starts to were the cover and it will short out the car will not and also not start .also will stop running anytime when the wire tough.
Thanks Dedell, today I took my civic 99 to the dealership to fix the safety recall. You can find details about the recall that is causing the problem here http://www.hondacivic.info/subpages/1999_honda_civic.html
sometimes the serpentine belt will get loose and make that happen... if you've changed the belt and it seems tight, make sure all the parts that the belt go around aren't loose because that will make the belt slip and do the same thing.
The problem has been solved, by changing the computer @Takoda. Simply i change the computer with another one that was plugged in another car model 1999. the problem has been disappeared !! no die and the efficiency is very good. also i think that will affect on the fuel burn.
check your main relay... hit it once.. see if it starts up if it does get a new main relay 1st thing 2nd try checking your altenator take it off and bring it to any free testing shops such as autozone and ect. also tell them to test your battery to see if it still has enough percentage dont touch the dizzy if it sometimes awake your car and sometimes it dies cant be it all i did was grab a new main relay+battery+altenator+all new ground cables there should only be three main cables on our hondas and thats all i did to my 91 crx same problem!!!
my 1998 honda civic Ex shuts off while i am driving EVERYDAY multiple times a day!! the ignition switch that was recalled has been replaced, put in a new fuel filter (didnt die for 3 days in a row!!) just yesterday put in a new main relay and that didnt help either. please help i can not waste any more money on this stupid thing. id like to add in that some times when it dies it will re-start its self (rpm, all gauges drop then suddenly shoot back up within seconds), other times it will make a clicking noise repeatedly after it shuts off some of the lights on the dash will come on then go back off.
My 99 civic lx is doing the same thing. I thought it was the main relay, so had it replaced. Still persisting. Thought heat had something to do with it bcus never happens in the cool morning only when I get off of work & it would multiple times sometimes. Bf said to replace fuel pump now & its expensive so before I go & buy more parts, what part/parts would lean closer to this problem? I already read the stories of so many parts being replaced..& I cant afford to buy them all at the moment.
i thought it had something to do with the heat too because I never have a problem in the morning when it is still cool outside. to be honest i wouldnt replace the fuel pump just yet. if you turn your key to the on position you should hear the fuel pump "hum" for a second then you hear a click (the main relay) if you hear the humming noise that means your fuel pump is working. i had my injectors cleaned a while back and it seemed to have helped a little but (unless it was just a lucky streak). how much was it to have your distributor replaced? Idk what to do this is driving me crazy!!
i think most likely is the ignition coil is causing the problem, as the ignition coil get heat up like the car is warm up will a bad ignition coil stall the car. thats why you can start the car like a few minute later as the coil is cool down it will function again. which is the reason the car is always fine when is cold.
I'm having this problem too and I've replaced the distributor, the fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs, and main relay. Could this be related to the timing belt - my alternator checks good.
Thanks, I will try cleaning my injectors first & go towards the ignition coil & distributor will hopefully be final bcus my bf's del sol would just completely die n never start back up, he replaced his fuel pump & it still persisted, he changed his distributor (a remanufactured one) & his car runs like new now. Hopefully lasts. But thank u guys!
If your car clicks and or acts like it has no juice it is power related. Low Voltage or to much resistance on a ground cable. If your car does weird things when something is turned on like a/c or radio, lights etc.. Check alternator. If car simply will not start run tests from service manual on coil and or icm. You can test ICM easily by taking in old ICM to AutoZone and test resistance across leads and comparing them to new piece. Also verify fuel and Fuel pressure.
recently looked through the recalls on my 98 civic. there was one in july 2002 for 98-00 civic hatch and sedans for the ignition switch. the problem is that due to the high current going through during start-ups it wore out connectors in the stitch causing the car to stall out unexpectedly while driving. i went into my local honda dealer today and they said they would gladly preform the recall for no cosl still. i would just have to wait on the part to arrive. the way to check if this recall has been preformed is if there is a punched hole above the first digit on the vin on your firewall. i did not have time for them to change the part so i did it myself at work. my car starts up better and no longer stalls out while moving. the part is 41$ if you decide to just buy the ignition stitch. it took me about 15-20 mins to change
There was a recall on the ignition switch back around 2001/2002.........mine did the same thing ...would randomly die...This recall is still active. Had my ignition replaced June 2012 (10 years after recall) at the dealership for free no questions asked.....Call the Honda Recall 800 phone#........Then make an appt at dealership because they may have to order the part. Good luck.
Go on line and look up recall s. Mine is a 98 Honda Civic was shutting off when driving was a recall issue was fixed by Honda dealership. Look up recalls for any car you have. They will fix.
the recalled ignition switch on my 98 honda civic was replaced by the dealer before i bought my car. I called and had them run my vin number to verify. BUT the problem was the ignition switch i bought a new one at auto zone and put it in yesterday and my car hasn't died since!!!
I have a honda civic 99 and mines is doing that too and it just started yesterday
Nvm I found the answer its the fuel pump mines don't die anymore
Hello everyone, I'm having problems with my 99 civic ex sputtering and trying to stall right after take off from a start up. It does it multiple times before it finally stops then normally 20-30 minutes into my drive it stops accelerating. Has anyone had this issue that could help me? We've already replaced my distributor, plugs and wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, pcv valve, new cat, and 2 new o2's. Car has around 193k miles on it and we had an issue similar to this when my distributor died but it was never this severe. If someone knows whats wrong and could send me a message at nrozzidesign at yahoo dot com that would be great! Thanks!
i have had this issue before, even racing on a track.... for some of you it may be worse but alot of you overlook the battery... try taking the terminals off the battery and cleaning them. if you arent getting enough power to the engine it will die. like i said for some of you. for others check the air filters, listen for the fuel pump make sure its priming, check the distributor and check the contacts they do wear down.
clean and grind the battery terminals.. or check for oxidation or wear n tear of the wires especially the one leading to the 10mm bolt on your alternator. its the one that transfers electricity throughout your car.
my 1999 Honda Civic lx 5 speed has a mind of it's own! For atleast 3 weeks now it either doesn't start or stalls out when it pleases. Sometimes it will start right back up as I am still coasting, other times (like tonight it wont start at all and it is now 30 min away from my house just sitting there.) I have already put a new battery, spark plugs and wires, fuel pump, and the distributor i got from a junk yard that last time i was having issues. I know it is not the distributor, because when It was my distributer my car did different things than wouldn't even start. before i put the rest of the stuff in my car would bog out when i was in any gear than either stall or if i shifted like a crazy person it would catch up with itself. Put the spark plugs and fuel pump in last night and from last night to tonight drove 70 miles. No issues. Car started right up every time, untill it didn't. Than tonight car wouldn't start about 20 min later it started and I made it 5 feet when it stalled. I really think it is fuel related. There really are so many things. I am thinking ignition coil and fuel pump. Any other suggestions?
sorry i got a new fuel filter i need a fuel pump
hi all i got a 98 civic same prob. stalls while driving i fixed it lol it was the main relay took it apart looked at the solder it was broke bought a $5 solder gun took a hole 3 mins. to fix it lol good luck all
I've had this same probably for a few months but they think much of it. The Car would hesitate during acceleration and the car would eventually die. Here is what i did: 1. Check Fuel (Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, and Main Relay) 2. Replace any of the above if needed 3. Check for spark (Distributor, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug wires) 4.Do a spark test for each cylinder and see if its getting spark, if there is no spark then it will be a distributor issue. 5.Open your distributor and check for erosion around the contact area for the distributor cap. (Where the rotor meets the cap). 6.Clean off erosion if needed and try again. If nothing happens replace Cap and Rotor. 7.If replacing cap and rotor helps then that was all you need. But if you happen to drive and the car randomly dies and has a hard time starting/won start. There is only one solution. 8. New Distributor. Why so? there might be a break in your distributor wires in side which causes the spark to arch/jump around causing misfires and car shutting off while driving. 9. If all else fail then sale the car =] Well i hope something helps, i just know all these things from self experience and i know how frustrating it is!
To see if your car has had the ignition switch fixed, go here. http://owners.honda.com/service-maintenance/recalls
I had that problem at first it would slow like no power hand distributor check, starter, and fuel pump everything fine then one day it just stopped I had to take it to a mechanic. the lower part of my engine wasn't giving enough power I had to either get another engine or rebuilt. I got rebuilt. It had been sitting for about a 11 months. 5 months not working and 6 months paying off mechanic' now my ac doesn't work and my fan doesn't work and now there's a bubbling of over flow water telling me my car is going to over heat even though my gauge shows good so my fan is bad now or sensor piece. I'm mad at the mechanic but he says things like this happen when car sits to long
Yes there has been a accedent I. My 1998 civic I was driving up a mountain rd in butte mt my car stalled I stopped got it to start let off the brake it was raw ice it kept sliding in slow motion It stalled again I hit the brakes and no one told me there was a ignition recall it smashed into a 2012 ford f-150 costed $14,000 in damage from a hill slid I had kids in the car
my car kept turning off. Civic 1999. I just replaced the ignition coil. so far so good, I will re post if this was it. Car used to go to a complete stop while running and sometimes took like 5 -10 tries to get it starting again.
Angel........mine is fixed. It was ignition switch. There was, and still is, a RECALL on it. Call the Honda 800# and they will fix you up. You will be able to take it in to any dealership an get replaced at $o cost.
I had the same problem my honda would die after driving about 20-30 min and would take about 15 min to start again,I changed the fuel filter, and put in a brand new distributer worked for about two days and problems came back, I read a forum and somebody said it could be the main relay, the soldering inside the relay cracks and when it gets hot it expands and looses connection, if your car dies try hitting the main relay if it starts that's most likely your problem, I changed the main relay and havnt had any problems since
I actually figured it out, it was the ignition module inside the distributor. Once I replaced that, the car ran like a champ.
throttle body. i was having the same problem with my civic. i cleaned the thoatle body with carburetor cleaner and stopped stalling for a few months. ive notice lately its being doing it again once in a while.. just thought sharing this might help someone. ( i did notice theres a loose plug on top of the throttle body i need to replace, i unplugged it when the car was on and makes the car weak) like if it want s to shut off
When it wont start, does it lose spark? or fuel? Are the inputs to the distributor correct? If you lose power to make spark, it comes from having the ign sw. on and cranking. It comes thru the main relay. For 1/3 the cost of the parts that have been listed, you could get a competent diagnosis at the dealership for christ's sake.
You should hear your fuel pump, it comes thru the fuel pump relay. You should have clean battery connections. You should have good well connected fuses. You should have the pinpoint tests and a meter and a gauge for fuel pressure, and a spark tester. If You have a 12v test light, you can verify many basic electrical system powers and grounds. a haynes manual can be helpful. A jumper box can be purchased cheaply nowadays. Fuel level should be kept known and above 1/3. After testing, you could need an ignitor. For all the incompetent guess replacements I have read on here, You could have your own diagnostic arsenal. Simply having your oil service done at your dealer will regularly get your recall, and service requirements outlined to pre plan preventative maintenance.
Do you have to reset the clock everytime it shuts off. If so tighten up the battery cable or replace them. Maybe use some sand paper
That's good but a battery cleaning brush is cheap and maintains the proper shape. coating them after cleaning with protective spray or grease can stop the corrosion from recurring.
pretty impressive list. I noticed you said in the original question, that you turn the ignition on and turn it 5 to 10 times ? what is the car doing as a response to each turn of the key ? Nothing? Tap sound each time ? cranking ? If noting it's connections you need to check, if tapping? it is contacts in the starter. If cranking? it's spark you need to check. After connections from getting no response are checked, there was a recall for ignition switch mentioned by Birddog. The part to also check by removing and checking for electrical odor is the main relay. It can be repaired and the price range on them is very questionable. I suggest discussing it with an OEM supplier for the most updated part to stop repeat failure. In the case of cranks but wont start you need to find if you lose spark or fuel. Your car dies going down the road and then needs attention to the symptoms right then. You can divide and conquer the problem by paying closer attention, or telling the symptoms here more specifically for those (if/thens) When your car has a known electrical recall, it must be performed to get safety first. then try to simplify by listening when it acts up.
I am haveing the same problem with my 1998 acura integra 1.8L auto. So far I have replaced the battery fuel pump and the ingition switch according to the acura dealer thats what it was. Still haveing the same problems now im being told the starter could be grounding it self out but found nothen wrong with is. The person I got it from put in an after market blaster coil and clear blue disbutor car. if any one has an idea plz let me know cuz this is my only car to get to and from work.
You may waht to start a different question for yopurs since everything is not the same. Installing parts without testing to find the cause is the least intelligent thing. Having your dealer find and correct the cause is the most intelligent thing. There has been no mention of some often most likely found items these cars are becoming famous for eating. And your "dealer " did not mention them either??? Aftermarket parts and wiring as well as connections are even more suspect than the statistically most failed parts. A check for recalls and service bulletins, then basic maintenance, then the simple system prechecks and a review of your service records prior to spending the diagnostic money on an intelligent set of tests by a technician are indicated here. You could buy a book and test equipment to check basic open circuits and quite a bit more for the money guess fixing costs. If I was asking a dealer and their response was replace a list of things, but they did not have a failed test? I would not follow that advice. Call a different dealer, but if they dont even see the car they cannot do more than research.
ya there is only one acura dealer within 100 miles of my house and the nearist one is 50 miles from me and the car wont make it to them. Thats why they keep telling me this over the phone . But right now i am at the point that im just going to replace the starter and put the factory disterbutor cap rotor plugs wires and coil back on to the car to see if that fixes it.
Is your concern with cranking the engine ? and intermittantly unable to do so? then after 5 or more tries you get some reaction from the starter? or is yours making a tap each time you turn to the start position, but not cranking? or is yours cranking continuously every try without starting?
If you have replaced the distributor, spark plugs, wires, battery... You HAVE to have the TIMING adjusted as I have heard no one mention this.
You have to understand the process of operation before doing anything. The age of the car will ALWAYS require new parts being replaced that is in the process of operation. So, basically to keep the engine running does not require a new battery (horrible mechanic) If it starts and runs..the battery is fine... Nevertheless, I myself have a 1999 Honda Civic DX with 197077 miles. Car was dying periodically and knew it'd need a new ignition system soon. Changed the distributor, spark plugs and wires BUT as any car that has a distributor should hv the TIMING adjusted periodically for maximum performance. It's not a secret. I had the timing adjusted and my car hasn't died in over 15,000 miles. Hope this helps.
I agree, the factory position of the distributor remains constant when you use factory parts and procedure. If you start making your changes you best find out the timing procedure and inspect where it lands after any change made that can affect it. If you have to move it ? Why ? how much ? and is your latest change putting it out of spec? then you have to try and compensate by leaving the factory stake mark ? Technicians often use this inspection during diagnosis and learning the engine's current changes and adjustments......................... But this tech puts a new battery in for connection trouble, he must have had a reason, like the condition of the post or the age of the battery. He may forsee by case condition, number of no start stories, etc. that the battery would fail soon. Some just get replaced because they were cranked dead, and that is failing to evaluate before condemning if it is the only factor.........................The asker does not give enough info, and is probably still bolting on more aftermarket goodies. looking for quick answers and soon those parts will be sitting in a pull a part yard somewhere, the cars wipers will be up and pointing opposite directions hahaha
Using Genuine Honda parts for cap and rotor has, in the past, been the savior of cars that die. The materials in use can be lower or (higher?) quality, but different. The first maintenance tune I ever did to a honda taught me to save the old parts if they were still functioning. It warmed up and died, we spent forever trying to find why, since we just replaced them, the cap and rotor were not on our list, but systematic tests lead to learning direction of rotation and Honda dealer advice to use their old throw aways . They are better than aftermarket new sometimes
That car had the hi tachi distributor and they said aftermarket parts can look alike, but just try em, you'll see. He was right. years later, that car still has a Honda cap and rotor and we use the aftermarket one for an ashtray. .........Happy rice grinders
WWW.tegger.com .............can help you find out the parts in use for your system and go thru the steps to diagnose what part causes you to lose spark, and how to verify whether you have a spark or fuel issue.
I have a 98 Honda Civic hatchback and I had the exact same problem I change the distributor and I would not get power to my distributor it will not start I do not get power to my dashboard at all do you know what the problem is
My 98 honda kept shutting off while i was driving and sometims shut of when i first started my car. I just took it to thr honda dealer(after taking it to midas who couldnt figure out what was wrong). Honda d,ealer said it was a electrical problem with thr ignition switch. They had a recall on this and my car was serviced for the recall a couple of years ago. Waiting for a verdict if they will cover the cost for it to be fixed.
Every component in the circuit has the potential to cause loss of voltage to power the components after it, every connector, and every wire. the recall is like saidah786 says, and after cars wear for years and miles, testing and reading schematics is what your tech uses to find it. Guessing costs more when you add it all up, intermittency leaves you with wiggle tests and inspections to do. Tricks are learned along the way, and customers add-ons may show up during testing and inspection. good luck you need some after 15 or more years of the car being in service.
Start a new thread if you are not answering the original question, please. This thing is years old and several variables have it all over the place.
Same for me on 99 ex. Tried everything. The FIX!! Ignition coil in distributor.
Ok, after replacing every major component in my 1999 Honda Civic DX Coupe...Honda had a recall on their ignition switch... Found this out the hard way. I went to Pick n Pull and cut out the main portion of the ignition switch that has 5 wires going to the fuse panel under the dash... And the solenoid directly under the steering wheel. Cost me 21.00. This was when my car had 160,000 miles and it is now 240,000 ...with no other issues... The ignition switch is a major power distribution point... If you open up the back of that ignition switch... It is basically a miniature distributor.Again, I had already replaced the distributor, battery, main relay, alternator ac system, exhaust manifold/catalytic converter...EVERYTHING and t still did the same thing... Fortunately, now everything is under a lifetime warranty. I'll send picks if need be to show everyone what to replace. Btw, I had a 30 yr Honda service manager try and fix and it didn't fix the problem. 4 distributors in 2 years, 3 alternators and it gave false codes of my torque converter, TCS SOLENOID and a bad transmission... The bad ignition switch causes EVERYTHING to short to ground.
Btw, no matter if you replace the distributor with factory or remanufactured you ALWAYS will have to set the timing. You hv to jumper the small harness in the passenger floor panel from the ECM and time the number one cylinder rt next to the timing chain/cover. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VBDKoJCvxoQ
My 91 Civic HB has had this problem as well. I'm sitting on the side of the road waiting for the ignition coil to cool off now. This is my second distributor. The car was stolen just got it back ignition switch was busted open. I replaced stuff like new battery, spark plugs, ignition switch, cat conv., 02 sensor, fuel and water pump. But the spark is bad. So I guess the last thing is the main relay. If you guys have more help inbox me tnx I love Honda girl is my page ok
Hello Everyone: I have a civic 2001 automatic with after market security system Lately it started dying while driving. It will shut down at once giving check light on dash. After few minutes/tries and it will start again and goes fine. My observation is that the symptom appear in hot weather and during drifted driving within city traffic (at lower RPMs). It never behaved this way during higher speeds. I went through all posts and now plan to proceed with relays first that off that has relays under the steering in dash (look above the drivers foot).
I hope this post as it will help a lot of people save time and money. My 99 civic ex started dying out and got progressively worse until we couldn't trust it to go anywhere. I tried everything on these post from main relay to replacing ignition. Finally inside the distributor there's a little diode with wires plugged in to it. That's the problem. Cost 6 bucks on eBay. Change that first, that fixed mine.
JBeaver: Mine is 2001 automatic civic with D17 motor. It does not have a distributor. I guess I might have to look into ignition coil which is located down the steering wheel and check its fuse and relays in the fusebox under the hood. Kindly guide me.
Change the ignition switch...it's what you put you put your key into.... Auto parts stores carry the entire switch or you can purchase just the harness that is attached to the back of the switch. I guarantee you that this is your problem.. Not many people realize that while we detail our cars...spray armor all or whichever cleaner you use and spray it on the steering column.. It tends to get into the switch and cause problems.
Don't no wats going on with my 1999 honda accord ex coupe it want start but cranks I changed the distributor cap and spark plugs and wires and fuel pump also took it to the mechanic they said they don't no what's the problem help me find out the problem
Inside the distributor is a little module with 4 wires on it. One screw holding it down. Ignition module cost 6 bucks on eBay That's what fixed mine after I replaced everything else.
Rule of thumb alway check electrical systems consisting of battery power cables terminals spark plugs wires distributor cap rotor and assembly unit fuses relays then fluids oil coolant and fuel note that a cheap inexpensive sensor can break the stress and head ache of replacing a more expensive costly part or shop fees and towing charges
Hi! I'm Franklin, I recently worked on a 2001 Acura. When I drove the car it would Drive Great for a little while a little rough nothing to crucial. But it came to an abrupt stop almost threw me through a windshield. But I knew something was wrong because the ABS two and two more lights wrong indicating the brake system but once that was fixed then the problem came we're at the car would just write rough then. Then you would have to wait. The funniest thing that I found out is that I was reading through the years of all the talk of you guys with the Civic then I thought about it that's a Acura you know is a Honda product. The beam that fixed the Acura from dying and riding rough was something that the guy the very first guy mentions he had changed a fuel sensor relay in the main relay. My point is this the Acura expert that check that Acura for me simply told me and showed me the relays can be turned backwards and they're going to work backwards not at all like they should so my point is this I think you should try reversing those two relays who's ever having that problem. Or they may need to check the brand that they're using because I had a Chrysler 300M a 2000 model those cars had a tendency that if you put a Bosch sensor on it, it would run so rough that it would shut the main computer off because the ratio of air gas and Spark was rhe regulated by the sensor by fractions but enough to make that much of a difference and for that issue I think Chrysler started recommending the NGK brand because it was the closest to the ratios that they had from the factory. I hope that your help and I also had another problem with them ECM but once again this is a hundred if you're having a problem with the ECM or the motherboard please try to check in the relays to go to him the starter relay the fuel pump relay the emergency shutoff relay it may be backwards as well to the point where once it gets to a certain temperature it won't shut the car down. It's just like blowing a fuse. So obviously something is going on with the relays anyway for a relay to need changing, but like I said as well it could just be backwards someone else could have looked at it and could have simply put it in backwards before he took it to the mechanic and not said anything about it because no one would think there is a difference if the prongs are symmetrical. it's always good to read instructions as well and double check with a master mechanic. I hope this was helpful to someone because I wouldn't have believed it with my own eyes if he wouldn't switched it back and show me that it just goes right in the same way I forgot the car think it was an Acura jl wasn't a legend.
Try the main relay on right side at the glove box
Little diode thing inside the distributor. Cost 13 bucks on eBay ..fixed mine after I tried everything . Save time and money, check this first.
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