2001 Chrysler Sebring- oil light comes on when I stop for a red light. As soon as I let off the break and begin moving, the light goes off. Only happens after I have driven for about 30 min.
After I have driven my Chrysler Sebring for about 30 minutes or more, the oil light begins comming on every time I have to stop at a traffic light or sign. It goes off again as soon as the light changes and I begin driving again. I also can smell oil. I dont' see any oil spots on my garage floor so I don't think I have a bad leak.
1-low oil level, 2-engine idle set to low on engine, rod bearings wore out. (this is the worst one) there are others also
Thanks. I appreciate your help. I have checked the oil. It's not low at all. That was the first thing I thought of. The mechanic I have trusted for years has retired and I was hoping to get some ideas before I take my car in and try a new shop.
How many miles has your car gone?
First, I would not drive the car in this condition without a pressure check. The risk is not worth it. As dbll responded, first check oil level. If it's low it is leaking or burning. Verify the correct viscosity oil was used. A clogged screen in crankcase, or oil filter, or failing oil pump can be a culprit. A pressure check may identify internal wear or faulty sending unit. If there are no other symptoms, like unusual noises, it MAY be ok to drive, but unless your mileage is low and the garage around the corner, I would not. Have the oil smell checked too, it could be an unplugged hose or a leaky gasket, which will only deteriorate.
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The car has a log of miles on it around 176,000. I haven't had it for very long, so I don't really know the maintenance history. Of course the light did not come on during the test drive. And I bought it from an individual so I can't take it back to the lot. Other than the light it runs great and I have had no other problems with it.
if the car has gone 176 k miles its your oil pump, pumps output is bad at low revolutions, if wourn out,: it will perform bad when your oils is warm. (Causes your oil light to turn on ) Have it replaced asap. Hope the answer is helpful.
before replacing the oil pump try changing the oil old can cause alot of ware in the engine
Sounds like it's time to move to a thicker oil. What's happening is when you come to a stop, your engine's rpms drop to a level that lets the oil pressure drop too low. That's from the oil being too thin for the clearances in your engine after they have been worn out from all the miles. If you can smell oil burning, it may be working it's way past the piston rings or valve seals. A thicker oil can remedy this as well.
2.7? This car has oil pressure controlled timing guides, and can leak internally into engine, smacked oil pan (if steel) can push pick up away from oil in pan during rotation windage from crank can put airbubbles in oil causing flicker or constant on at idle. These engines are also known for weak oil pumps. And is most likely the cause, and is not an easy one to do requires special tools and proceedures. Hope that helps.an oil pressure test is where i would start before buying a single part.
Sorry everyone, but your unfamiliarity with this engine is obvious. The 2.7 is a hot running engine and consequently "bakes" conventional oil- So much so that it coats every internal part with a lacquer like black glassy coat. It also tends to gunk up black tar in the oil pan. The gunk unfortunately also has small bits of the aforementioned lacquer substance mixed with it, because it is heavier when the oil warms up the small particles are drawn to the pick up tube only when the oil thins and washes about. The pickup tube has a screen on it which is fine enough to catch a mass of junk. This then leaves little room for oil, and at low rpm the pump cannot draw enough to make proper pressure. To test this run the engine until the oil light comes on at idle. Then shut it off, wait 5 minutes and run it again. You will notice the light is off at low idle for a short period then comes back on, especially fast if you rev it. If a bearing were the cause it would come on immediately and the tell tail brass would be on the dip stick. This engine has no history of a failed or weak oil pump. On examination of a very used pump from an engine with this affliction in full effect I found it to be in excellent condition, and have never seen one that failed. Your best option is to remove the oil pan and upper valve covers and clean it all out with a solvent, be sure to let residual solvent dry out then reassemble the whole thing. Take the car for a drive long enough to heat it to operating temp then change the oil again when it cools. The engine is a turd and you can only expect this to add to its life for 10-k -20k miles. I don't recommend detergent oils at this point since all your going to do is loosen up the lacquer stuff that infects everything.
Had the same problem result was the wiring harness going to the pressure switch. My technician said that there is a service campaign for this issue. Fixed 2 years ago, and no problem with the light coming on since. If 2.7 use synthetic, at 110k the internal are still sludge free.
I am having this same issue right now with a 2004 Sebring......had the water pump replaced about a month ago, (unrelated?) Now when my thermostat gets up to a certain temp, the oil light will either come on (or flicker) when at a stop light or at drive -thru window...........minute you take foot off break, goes off.......any advice or other info is appreciated!
High mileage cars need a bit thicker oil it can help boost oil pressure. Thus keeping the light out
Thanks, is 40,000 miles on a ten year old car considered high mileage? My air bag light has also been on constantly.......I know I need to see the dealer for that, no explanation on that one so far from mechanics, except one thinks because my sunroof was left open once during a rainstorm, that set it off somehow!
The airbag module is under the console so yes wet will turn the light on. The 2.7 v6 in some folks opinion is a great engine me not so much this is a common issue usually caused by lack of service usually previous owner. 400000 is early for that type of problem and it may simply be a defective pressure switch
2.7 engines are sludge mobiles. Anyone that dont know this yet, at this point, after all the information out there, all the class action lawsuiting, all the cars that had the 2.7 now gone from the roads, is living under a rock or something. Possibly living in denial. Ever see any 2001 to 2008 Didge Intrepids? 2001 to 2008 Mercury sables? 2001 to 2008 Dodge Stratus? Or how about the Sebring convertibles from 2001-2008 being driven? Very very few. And I mean probably 5% of the sold from 2001 till now. Thats 95% of the cars blown up and theres no used engines left either for people to replace their blown original ones with because those are all already in somebodys car and those are about to blow up. The ones you do see very seldom probably have the 3.5 ltr motor in them. The 2.7 is INFAMOUS for blowing up at 50 to 100k miles, so if you see cars with the 2.7 with about 90 to 110k miles for only a couple thousand dollars, and you're wondering whyso cheap, why they're in such beautiful condition on the outside, that's why. Theyre trying to get anything they can out of it before it blows up and they end up not getting nothing out of it. If it has a 2.7, its gonna be for sale for dirt cheap, pennies on the dollar AND its going to look gorgeous. SO live in denial, ignorance, or just wanting to disagree to disagree with ALL the proof, evidence, the millions sold that are off the road in such a short period of years, but you too will have a 4000 pound paper weight sitting in your driveway soon enough. Sorry but thats just the facts, not an opinion.
I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring 2.7 engine when it warm up or I put it in drive it cuts off then wen I try and start it it want start in less I charge battery or get a jump what's going on..
I have a chrysler sebring 2.7 2002 but I noticed when Im driving and I slow down, the car jacks. and when I checked my gear oil I found it was low and I also noticed some leaks. Could dis be the cause?
ok most of the replies were idiots. The campain to fix the oil light was too add a resistor so the light didn't come on. Thats what I came on here to do. The 2.7 does bake the oil you need to run full synthetic or you can flush the engine and drain the oil. The reason they fail is not the oil pump its the return galleries plug with gunk and no oil can get down to the crank case. If you flush the motor aand then use the right oil I have customers with 300,000 on the turds
As an owner of an '04 Sebring convertible with 130k miles I can speak with some authority on the 2.7L engine. I have not yet had the flickering oil light at idle issue but the comments on the 2.7L engine being junk no matter the year are not true. Yes I would avoid any 2.7L engine on a car from '02 and before as these engines were more prone to sludge and this is where the 2.7 got its bad reputation that it never lost. Starting in the 2003 model year Chrysler modified the 2.7L engine with wider oil galleries and gave the internal water pump weep holes so that it would give warning before it totally wore out and spilled coolant into the engine causing sludge and killing the engine. Yes the 2.7L is far from a perfect engine as Chrysler made some really dumb engineering decisions with it. Yes it does run hot and requires dedication from its owner far beyond what most drivers would expect. Will it run 300,000 trouble free miles with only oil changes? Probably not. If you have an '03 or later 2.7 that has been well taken care of will it "blow up" at 50-100k miles? Probably not. In the Spring and Summer I see two if not three Sebring convertibles with the 2.7L engine during a day out driving so I disagree with seeing very few on the roads.
NO MORE OIL WARNING !!!!!!!!! I just had exact problem. Annoying warning sound when I stop at red light. 2000 grand voyager with 150k miles original engine and oil pump. I drive 80-90 MPH with this issue for a week with no issue. So I know nothing wrong with my pump or bearings. See Brex's comment above regarding the issue with the wire going to oil pressure switch. All I did was clean the wire, connector and the pressure switch using break cleaner. I didn't even remove any of them. Just sprayed to clean all oil and dirt as much as possible. NO MORE OIL WARNING.
2002 Sebring Convertible with the 2.7 engine I've got the oil light ON at idle "issue"; happens only during the warmer weather. Cooling system on these cars is marginal IMHO, and when weather warmer, and especially with A/C on, the light shows up. I've been assured by other owners (Sebring Convertible Owners Club) that this is a common issue, and that it's most probably the oil-pressure sensor, which often springs a leak to-boot. BTW - they insist that if you change the sensor, you *have* to clean the engine-side connector, by removing silicone seal, & very throughly cleaning with de-greaser of your choice (Carb/Brake/Electrical Cleaner). If you don't, they tell me you're likely to have new sensor act worse than original. I'm about to have this done, will try to repot back.
I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible JXi with 175000+ miles on it. It runs really good and have not had many small and no major problems and once I learned that some of my problems were caused by the fuses in fuse box on the engine...man on man, I have saved myself a lot of money. My only major problem now is my top will go down with no problem but on one side, passenger, the only way it will come up is if someone,is lifting that side when letting up and the front window goes down slowly...what do I need to fix this problem and are parts still available? The oil light problem has ceased since I started using high mileage synthetic oil for the past two years.
I have a 2004 Sebring touring conv. also having the oil light problem. However that's the only issue I have with the cat 180000 and still running strong. I'm gonna give that high mileage oil a chance hope that makes a difference. Lots less expensive than replacing an oil pump.
>>> My only major problem now is my top will go down with no problem but on one side, passenger, the only way it will come up is if someone,is lifting that side when letting up and the front window goes down slowly...what do I need to fix this problem and are parts still available? There are two hydraulic pistons, plus a pump that power the top. Sounds like one of the pistons is leaking -or- leak elsewhere has lost enough oil (usually transmission fluid) in lines for things to stop working right. Have a look on Utube for fix -sebring or chrysler top motor. Forget buying new parts, way too expensive - go to wrecking yard and get what you need which will be either one or both pistons, and/or the motor, or maybe you want to buy them all. Whole Top with motor, pistons, glass, etc -all in good shape- can usually be bought for under $100 - 2 guys and set of wrenches will do the job. Drop in here for more instructions: http://www.sebringclub.net/board/index.php
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