Where can I get a picture of the fix for the rubber brake line
Brake fluid is leaking at the junction where the rubber line meets the master cylinder and I am looking for a picture and related parts to see how easy it is too replace that hose
If you can see both connecting ends, a good wrench is all you need.
Yes I can see both of the bolts or nuts. I am soaking them with Wd40 right now because the one at the top is very rusty. Thanks, if I only have to loosen those two nuts it should work out. The rubber hose must have connectors on both ends then I presume? Thanks again. Reggie
There is no rubber line that connects to the master cylinder. If you mean the wheel cylinder, that is a different thing. There are two lines out of the master, and they both go to the proportioning valve mounted on the frame rail below the master cylinder. From there, there are 2 steel lines that lead to the front wheels and one that leads to the rear axle. The rubber flex line on the rear axle has a dual outlet connector for the lines that lead to each wheel cylinder. If you are talking about a front flex line, soak it in penetrating oil, not WD 40. It may take some time to work. Also, if the flex lines are older (over 5 years) think about replacing all 3. The front ones are only about $20 each and the rear is about $30. All are readily available.
Mike. Thanks for the clarification. I think I am talking about the flex lines in the front which are connected by a nut to a plate which holds it to the car. The flex line is leaking where it is connected to the wheel cylinder.Its an 88 so they probably need to be replaced. Thanks for your insight. The nut is very rusty that is why I sprayed it with WD 40 to, I hope, remove easily. Thks
Use PB Blaster or another, high quality, penetrating oil, and it will likely come undone. You will also need to use good line wrenches, not just open ended ones, and certainly not Vice Grips. Hole the nut end of the flex line still, and GENTLY turn the nut on the steel line. If the steel line even hints at twisting, stop, and soak it again in penetrating oil, and leave it sit. Twist that line, and you may well be replacing the steel lines. That is very easy if you are good at making double flares yourself. The problem is the nut on the steel line is not the standard one that comes on the pre-flared line, so if you use them you have to cut off the factory end, remove that nut, and then get the right nut put on the line with a new flare. If you are doing one, do both. They are, I believe, about $17.85 a piece here in Canada, and most stores have them in stock since Ford used the same flex lines for well over 40 years on many different car lines.
Mike you were right. I used Kano Kroil which is really excellent for this type of work & one side went ok (had to use Vise Grips though to remove) after soaking for 2 days. The other side was too rusted, the inside of the nut & metal line was melted together & I broke the line next to the nut. Had to drill the line out of the nut. I just got a flare tool and am experimenting with it before I try it on the car. If that doesn't work for me I will have to buy a new metal brake line. I am lucky that it is the shortest one, next to the reservoir, it may not be so bad to replace. Hope my first option works. Also I was able to buy both flex lines for $11 a pc. Thanks & I hope other people get as much out of this as I did. Everything underneath an 88 Lincoln seems to be rusted, but it is a great looking car & now a classic. RHO
Those Lincolns are great cars. If the lines are looking that bad, I would plan on replacing all of them, including the fuel supply, return and vent lines. None is difficult to do in the least, and the safety factor is quite significant. Keep on enjoying the old girl. Remember, when it comes to Fords, as most cars, use 'em or lose 'em. They can accumulate a scary number of miles but they sure don't like to sit!
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