Could I please get some tips on cleaning oil sludge out of my 2001 Jetta 1.8t. ?
I just purchased a 2001 VW Jetta with 85,000 miles. The car appeared to be clean inside
and out. The seller told me his wife drove the car. Mid-grade gas was used (89 octane) &
every third tank was premium (93 octane)-I live in south Florida so there is no high altitude
(sea-level) I am adding this fact but I thought the computer would compensate and retard
the timing anyway. After I buying the car I found out the engine needed to be running for a
minute?- or is it more? After I bought the car I found out the turbo needed to cool off and
contributed to a sludge problem on an engine already prone to sludge. This is a turbo or
non-turbocharged problem according to what I read so far. I have mostly owned American
trucks and cars and have always been rear wheel drive because of the ease to work with
and I never liked having the skin peeled off the back of my hands. I've done most of my
work on Chevys that had 350-400 HP at the rear wheels and my gas milage was about 10-
22 mpg depending on how I drove. This why I bought the 1.8t. I just installed an new MAF
(OE) sensor but I wonder if there is crud on the throttle body and if I should pay to have
injectors and rail/line cleaned. A legit mechanic/friend -someone I trust who won't rip me off
told me 85k is HIGH MILAGE. Sorry for the long post/questions but this is background and
I'm a newbby. I hope some "gurus" can enlighten me and thank-you in advance.
best way to clean the inside of your motor,is right before a oil and filter change is pour a pint of trans fluid into crank case,let it idle for 30 minutes,dont rev the engine just idle,it will really clean the motor out,after 30 min.drain oil,remove filter refill the oil replace with new filter.do this every 3rd oil change,it will keep the sludge out of the engine.
Hello Idle: For normal (fuel efficient) city driving without load being put on the motor, you do not need to idle the turbo to cool down. For more "spirited driving" or making the motor work (like towing a trailer) or simply driving long distances it is optimum to let the motor idle for about 3 minutes. In no instance has any stock motor ever required to idle more than 5 minutes. Sludge: The sludge created by a very hot turbo that has not been given chance to cool down by letting the motor idle is called “coke” and forms on the turbo shaft, with the next start up that coked oil flushes back into the engine. I would not pour tranny fluid into my motor; I’d rather use some of the products on the market which in my opinion is safer. And it does not have to be repeated every couple of services, perhaps bi-annually. Usually the products out there ask you to do an oil and oil filter change mix in the additive and then after like 300miles or something like that you do a normal oil and oil filter change again. Cleaning: I’d simply suggest clean the MAP sensor. When it comes to the throttle body I wouldn’t be too concerned about it as most of these motors have a crankcase breather system and will always give the throttle body a light film coat of oil. Injectors: I’m not sure about the States but it should be same over there: over here we have repair shops that specialise only in cleaning, blueprinting and flow testing injectors, and a shop like that should be able to clean your injectors for you, the going rate should be about $ 50 – 150 per injector. 85K mileage: That is a little high if the motor suffered abuse. If the car didn’t get abused as the previous owner’s wife drove it then the only thing I’d be ready to replace would be the turbo. The motor should do three or four times that if it is sought after. As for the rest of the car usually suspension struts are the only main worry. (Not the body of the car; just the top part where the shock absorber pushes against inside the wheel arch. Easy and inexpensive parts to get a hold of.) Hope that is of some help for you.
euro engines tend to take 93 octane fuel to be low octane and i have seen oil sludge issues due to this. to flush the sump drain the oil and run a mix of 1 part oil, 3 parts deisel fuel to the fill quant of the sump. idle till at full operating temp, about half an hour, drain and fit new filter and oil. also look at replacing the breather system as they can fail causing leaks and consumption issues.
Buy two bottles of SeaFoam from your local auto parts store. Pour one bottle in the gas tank, and one bottle in with your oil. drive like normal for a couple of days and then change your oil. I've seen this stuff work and it does a pretty good job of cleaning up the insides of your engine. Since your running a turbo I would reccomend replacing oil all the time with Full Synthetic oil, do not use anything less. NOT all oil is the same. Look on the back of the oil bottle they will state if they meet vehicle manufacturers requirements or not. Use a VW spec oil. Rumor had it a few dealers a couple of years back had to replace engines for not using the correct oil and sludge problems.
More specifically an oil that will meet VW spec 50200 full synthetic,sludge issues have been a very bad problem on these engines,a big part of it is people taking cars to the quick lubeplaces and they are just putting in regular oil.not good. The one suggestion I can make to you is if you have a VW dealer close to you,VW had a kit made up for them and it is specific for the 1.8 engines is an adapter that gets plumbed into the oil filter housing and a cleaner is run through the engine,while the oil pressure is being monitored,this is someretty strong stuff and it will eat through the build up pretty effectively,I am not sure what the cost of this service would be but a quick phone call would have you as an informed person .But the downside to the cleaning service is that it also stirs up stuff that has been dormant for a long time,so you can create more problems than you are trying to solve
Looking for a Used Jetta in your area?
CarGurus has 33,914 nationwide Jetta listings starting at $700.
Search Volkswagen Jetta Questions
Volkswagen Jetta Experts