EGR valve

20

Asked by Apr 26, 2011 at 01:23 AM about the 1996 Chrysler Sebring 2 Dr LX Coupe

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Just had my transmission rebuilt (1800$ ouch) It started running like crap. Stalling during decellaration, rough to no idle, and wouldnt start without pumping the gas (FUEL INJECTION SHOULDNT DO THAT TO MY UNDERSTANDING) I read chaper 4 of the chiltens manuel 2wice and all the sympoms pointed to the EGR valve.FYI had a bad sensor bank 2 sensor 2 replaced it didnt help.  No codes on the dyode but the book said it could be malfunctioning so I cleaned it, put it back on the car.  it fired right up I thought I had fixed the problem.  About 10sec it ran then it died and wont start.  Does that mean I need to replace it? Does the EGR vale have a ground wire attached to it.  Side mounted V6 didnt have alot of room when I first got it all back together I noticed that I had a ground not connected. The connected end was bolted to the firewall.  Im not sure if bolting it to the EGR was the right place but it made the most sense.  Any help would be apreciated before I spend alot of money thats not gonna fix the problem.

14 Answers

1,705

Hmmm since your recently had the trans out its possible torque convertor was placed in correctly. Or could be your egr valve staying open/ sticking.

1,705

Wasnt"

20

Thanks for your thoughts buccaneerz89 my questions were more directed twards the EGR valve and im gonna be an ass and say nobody in this forum has any clue about it. I dont think my car would have ran great after the tranny transplant, if the torque converter was not in correctly.

20

Does anybody actually know about these cars, or are we alot of people, like me who know what they have learned from the book, or this site and really dont know what they are talking about. I dont have any advise for anybody because my car pisses me off, I have fixed some problems and tried on others and failed. Failed more than others. I hate my Chrysler! No offense to anybody but I need some real advise.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
870

I am feeling your pain, tmay. I am having similar issues, it runs fine at idle but when trying to drive, it dies when slowing/stopping. I am leaning toward the egr valve also. I just bought an inexpensive code reader, no codes but it moitors other things and it came up with 5 incomplete...catalyst, evap, 02 sensor, 02 heater, egr..so I'm wondering if a bad egr would set of the other isssues. I also have these questions on automd.com, and am getting more results. The ground wire sounds right, although I am no expert, I hooked it up to the same place---these sideways motors suck to work on!!!!

1,705

If they are flashing it means your car has to go threw a drive cycle(s) to test each part. Once these tests are done if there's a problem it will produce a code depending on whats wrong. Have you tried cleaning out the carbon in your idle air control valve? And about the egr it would throw a code if there was a problem. If I were you I would do those drive cycles. To do a drive cycle get on highway and drive about 55mph for 5 mins. Then after you should have some more codes to help diag the problem.

870

they are not flashing, it is difficult to drive as it dies while slowing/stopping, and I live in a hilly area so it sucks when the car dies going around a curve with no power steering or brakes. I have replaced the IAC and the idle control sensor, and cleaned out the throttle body at same time. And I changed the pcv valve...thanks for the response. Back to the "monitor" items...I hooked up the code scanner to my truck and all 8 monitor items came up ready....with out driving it or running motor for a period of time.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
1,705

Hmmm you might a fuel problem try checking for any vacuum leaks, and get you fuel pressure regulator checked. It would be good get a reading of the fuel pressure at idle to.

Sounds like a map sensor.MIne did the same thing.I replaced it.50.00.looked down inside the new one,saw that there was a shiny piece of metal that on the old one was all gunked up.sprayed wd40 in it and used a q-tip to clean it off.try that and see if it works.

Sounds like a map sensor.MIne did the same thing.I replaced it.50.00.looked down inside the new one,saw that there was a shiny piece of metal that on the old one was all gunked up.sprayed wd40 in it and used a q-tip to clean it off.try that and see if it works.

Ill agree with tmay1322, the car pisses me off! There seem to be way too many variables with this distributor-less engine with a distributor. bought a conv. with an inheritable problems, and after going through all of the usual problems like i did with my 97 Avenger, running into the same prob. changed plugs; wires, cap rotor, throttle posit, started it and idled great, for about 2 min. then died, started again, warmed up, i shut it off, cleaned up to take for test ride and it wouldnt start again.. too many variables are en valved to list, and where to start?

I have a 97 Sebring. I replaced all the sensors, the EGR valve, the throttle position sensor (twice). It was the distributor. ($80 on Ebay, $400 at AutoZone)

96 Sebring. Had problem with mine stalling this winter. Disconnected both hoses on egr valve. problem stopped. This spring, hooked them back up. Stalling problem no longer existed but ironically, before I rehooked back, have had major problems kicking into first gear. not a shifting problem but more like a clutch engaging problem. When I hooked egr valve back up, problem subsided drastically but not gone away completely. Can't figure out connection between emission and transmission. Anyone know?

10

stalling at stop is the bearing/bushing at the bottom of the distributor

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