Manual clutch pedal problem. Clutch pedal came suddenly loose with zero tention.
Tried jump starting 2002 Saturn SL2 to no avail. Battery was dead. In the process the shifter bushing popped off, which is a easy fix, yet while attempting to place my car back in nuetral I must of some how screwed up my clutch.
The clutch pedal now just tangles loose holding no tention, none at all. I looked under the dash board and what I see is a detached metal rod along side the clutch pedal which was not visible before. Yes I did shift my stick way too hard and I also may have stomped on the clutch pedal in a mad panic while attemping to jump or push start my car. This is a new one for me and at this time I have not found any help online.
Let me add that before I tried jump starting my Saturn today it ran great and the engine seems almost as strong as it was 13 years ago! I really love this car and can't find enough good things to say about it.
Hi yeah you may have broken your clutch pedal linkage which is basically a metal braided line that attachs this to your clutch pedal and moves the clutch clamp device that goes next to your transmission so you can shift the gears sounds like you broke that cable and it needs replaced to me I'm not sure look where your clutch cable goes to your transmission and see if its loose, in addition I had a 77 Volkswagen Rabbit and the whole clutch pedal broke off from where it was welded onto a bracket could be your clutch pedal is broken or half broken on there. Hope this helps?
You know when this all happened I had little time to trouble shoot a fix for this car and I can only that I will be given more time on the property where this problem occurred to find the problem in whole. Can I ask you what the rod was I saw tangling side by side of the clutch peddle that now lays limp? I never saw this before and I have been under the dash many times though put the years fixing shifter bushings and such. Let me also add the metal rod is very much stable in movement unlike my clutch pedal, yet so far I have not found any relationship between these two parts, though they sure look to me like they are one of the same assembly. I hope to get back out there some time soon but before I make the long venture on a land where I'm not welcomed, I want to be prepared as hell and be ready for the task as I can be. Yes, photos would of really helped ... Thank you for the input and I will be looking into your 'fix' while there but any other ideas are welcomed and much appreciated so please feel free. Jim/SingingSaturn
Hi Jim in answer to your question "Can I ask you what the rod was I saw tangling side by side of the clutch peddle that now lays limp?" I was looking on U tube & found people having issues with their clutch pedals like welds separating etc& I was noticing that on all cars they have a clutch master cylinder or a slave cylinder that is connected to the clutch pedal it is a rod connecting to the pedal I believe that is what you are seeing. If I was you I would think about taking out the pedal its self out of the car to see if its a weld problem & not your clutch cable being broke? This way you can get it welded back together or go to a junk yard & get one. Hope this helps? PS buy a shop manual helps to have one of those. PM
Here's a U tube link to show you what I found , https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eg1h7Y__Vcc
its doesn't have a cable to shift gears it has a hydraulic clutch mastercylinder an a clutch slave cylinder.the rod u saw beside clutch pedal is what compresses the clutch master cylinder causing pressure to build on the fluid in lines which allows clutch slave cylinder rod inside transmission to press on clutch fork which it pushe's the throwout bearing in toward pressure plate which disingagees clutch.....ther should b a hole in end of rod an sumthin like a peg on side of pedal.....there's a metal clip that goes on peg after puttin rod back on it
if ur pedal does not decompress an its hard to press....then mostlikey either the slave cylinder or clutch mastercylinder has went bad.......u can buy either one seperate for rd $56 but can't buy the lines in between.....best to buy it all for rd $110....includes mastercylinder lines an slave cyinder already bleed ready to b put on
Yeah big show is totally correct I was thinking back to the older technology when I had an older car from 1977 I think from like 1980 on thay are all slave cylinders and push rods like he's talking about so that's exactly what your problem is your master cylinder slave cylinder is burned out not working or the linkage to it is screwed up. Yeah he's totally correct I'm glad he corrected me, good luck let us know what happens?
Thank you for taking your time to help me with this. Next week I will be making a trip back out there. Now that I understand what the hell that rod is I may beable to tackle the fix. I'm glad I came acroos this site cuz folks were telling me to ... "just buy some cables Jim", blah, blah ... Will let ya know the out come n thanks again.
Clutch fixed! Last week I went back to where I had left my car due to the clutch and shifter problem. Everyone, thanks for all your answers and time. The shifter was easy to fix. The clutch was what had me worried, as you know, but after a better look under the dashboard, equipped now with a good light, I found my problem was as simple as the clutch peddle had popped off this rod which I now know is the top of the hydraulic pump which 'bigshow-13-13' had referred to. After reattaching the peddle (30 seconds) to this rod protruding from the baseboard the clutch was as good as new. Jumped the car and then very merrily drove it 100 miles home. Case closed! I own a Chevy Blazer almost as old as this Saturn 2002 and can honestly say I trust n love driving that Saturn so much more.
Looking for a Used S-Series in your area?
CarGurus has 1,003 nationwide S-Series listings starting at $1,900.
Search Saturn S-Series Questions
Saturn S-Series Experts