Won't start or crank. Clicking in the dash (I think) no start with jump box. Had 9v dash lights would dim trying to start. Put trickle charger still won't start after 2 days now 0v. at 15 v last week
15v was after jump from a car. No volt
meter to check. Battery, alternator or
starter? Not anti theft, key turned and
doesn't crank. Serpentine belt good.
Thermostat is stuck open. Fuel pump
always buzzes. Money in it already, learning
how unreliable they are looking everything
up. Shakes above 30 and needs brakes all
around plus mysterious issues also. Any
info would be helpful. I think its a drain, alt
or starter idk...
Check your connections at the starter and battery they should be clean and tight. You could have a junk battery and starter. Try unhooking the battery and jumping the Tahoe with the jumper cables hooked to the terminals. If it starts its the battery. If it makes a tick sound every time you try starting it the starter is the problem.
All connections are clean as I could get. Damn clean. Lol I will disconnect cables and try and jump start. Can I do it with a jump box? I only have 1 car live in country. It sounded like the quick clicking was in the dash, I thought the clicking was the solenoid trying to crank but not enough voltage to engage?
Yes a jump box is perfect. I sure love mine when its cold out like this. The quick clicking is a relay or solenoid draining its voltage. Usually a dead battery will do that.
Ok. I'll try first thing. I think there's a drain and I want to test alternator and starter. The cli cking sounded like an interior relay, not from out the interior of cab. I'll try box. Tried to get battery out to charge and its bolted in tight. I want to rule out one by one not buy all three. Thank you!
I can't get the gm side post plastic cables off terminals. I did connect jump box this morning and gauge for battery is now at 10 v. Just sitting overnight after being at zero all yesterday. So, I'm pretty confused, yesterday charger said 100% charged and the gauge was at zero. Let it sit overnight and now it's at 10v. Alternator battery? I don't think it has drain from alternator due to adding v. Still no crank only clicks. After start attempt put key on acc. Setting the only lights that stay on are check engine, battery and check gauges.
You don't have to take the plastic off of the terminals. Find a couple nuts that fit the side terminal screws and leave the screws in the terminals. Its either a bad battery or starter from what you're stating.
Assuming you have tight connections, and no corrosion on the battery terminals, and all wires to and from battery and starter are ok and tight at both ends, and free from damage, corrosion. The clicking is usually a solenoid (when battery voltage is strong enough, it holds the solenoid down to supply starter with full voltage.) So, Battery may be old, or damaged or out of water, it needs to be checked with a hydrometer or battery tester (each individual cell). If all else fails, try putting an aspirin in each cell (not kidding), this may get you ONE start, allowing you to get to town. If not then the starter or other issue is present.
Dumb ass battery. Thanks though
Just be glad it was something simple.
Ok I don't know what could be wrong with my truck. It has a new battery but every time I try ton
To turn on it makes a clicking noise somewhere around the dash board other then that it's not making a single noise. Lights turn on just the truck doesn't. Help!!!
I have a 2001 Chevy suburban and the problem with it is that it makes a clicking noise but we already gotten the starter replaced what more can it be and its not the battery either we changed that too ??
I have the same issue with an 03 Tahoe. New starter. New battery. New solenoid. Emory clothed all ground wires. Another thread suggested a faulty ground on the back of the block. Rerouted the ground to the front of the engine and still have the same issue. What do I do now?
My husband has solved this problem. My daughter has a 2011 tahoe ltz. It had all the issues noted in this a many other forums. He figured out it was a combination of two issues combined on my daughter's car. First the battery cables are garbage he switch out the new style battery cable connectors, with old school style clamp connectors, and routed all the wires back to their original points, with the exception of the alternator cable. He ran that cable to the same point as the battery cable that feeds the 175 amp 32 volt fuse. On the other side of the fuse he left the cable that connects to the fuse box inside the engine compartment. My daughter car has started without fail since.
My 2002 tahoe had similar problems. At times it would not start. The battery is new. Alternator is new. One day it would not start and I finally got it started three days later. It started out of the blue. Mechanic found computer code related to neutral safety switch. Had new one installed. Next day truck would not start. Following day same thing. Got it towed and mechanic found it was the starter. Power going to starter solenoid but no power coming out to the starter motor. All is good now.
Ok I have 1999 GMC Sierra z71 ext cab. Have brand new transmission built by transmission shop. Good starter good alternator. Good battery had everything checked today. Turn my key on. And it clicks one time for everytime you turn the key. And will not start. If I fight with it for 30 minutes it will finally start after shifting through all the gears and unlocking locking doors. Closing opening doors. I cannot figure it out someone help
Gmcsierraz71---did you ever figure the issue out? My 2000 yukon denali does exactly the same and also playing with locks etc will get it started but now it just clicks
I need help with my 2001 LT Suburban with starting issues that come and go. New battery Alternator tests good Starter tests good The stereo amp was disconnected because they told me it was draining the battery. Sometimes if I wiggle the starter relay it will fire up. Sometimes not. I can not afford a new car:( someone please help. Im a single lady. I'm alone in this mess.
sell the sub. you don't need it, and it will cause you many issues, buy a small toyota and enjoy many maintenance free miles. Camrys and tercels are plentiful on craigslist, and you can get a decent one for about $3-5,000. As for your relay loose connections can cause intermittant problems. Have a AAA certified mechanic check it out.
My husbands 1999 silVerano 1500 was doing this, replaced starter & selenoid with no luck. Disconectted his battery used mine still would not work. FINALLY we thought of the rubber around his cables, (his battery connections are side mount) cut off excess rubber and fired right up first try, we switch over to top post connectors. Just wasn't getting enough power to turn over! Hope this helps someone.
There is a ground wire that comes from a wire harness on the passenger side of the engine, that needs to be grounded due to breakage.
Fellow GM Truck owners with the dreaded no crank issue. We found the root cause! Replaced the neutral safety switch but the truck would still not start--could jump the starter but when turned the key nothing. Checked the voltage coming from the ignition to the switch and it was 11.7v. Replaced the wire from the ignition to the switch and that resolved issue---must of had a dead spot because we could not find any open wire. Hope that helps everyone.
this is a question for "IhateGMC", when you say to check the voltage coming from the ignition to the switch. what is the "switch" that you are talking about. and when you said, "replaced the Wire from the Ignition" I have no idea how i can begin to look for this because I used the phrases you wrote to try and find the parts online, and nothing came up. So there must be other "formal" names for the parts you are referring to. I am also working on a 99 Chevy S10, motor was switched out for a used motor. Now there is some clicking coming from the center-and-back wall near the distributor. I have hooked up a portable jump starter and the Chevy drains the jump starter immediately. Need help!
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