is there a secret to timing a 1991 subaru loyale?
I had to change the oil pump seal. now even following the book to the letter I cannto get my 1.8L engine to start. I have spark to each cylinder. Is there a secret? I do not have the fan belts on, because it makes it easier to change the timeing belts. Do I need to completely assemble the engine to make it start?
Hi, I will give you the info but I dont have the time to type it. I have a 1991 loyale and I had five of them and I did the timing on all of them with out a problem. If you want, you can email me and I will be happy to help you. firstname.lastname@example.org (wilson)
The Picture is backwards what it shows in the books, Google Search the correct marks to line it up...
Also, you might be on the exhaust stroke.
There are two sets of timing marks on the flywheel, one set has only three tick marks and is known as the valve timing marks (These are the marks you want to use when replacing the timing belts) The second set of marks has tick marks to signify 20 degrees before Top Dead Center and 20 degrees after TDC, these marks are used ONLY to adjust engine timing on a functional/running engine Your engine will NOT be functional until you use the valve set of timing marks which is used time the camshafts with the crankshaft when replacing the timing belts once both camshafts are in generally correct time, then use the 40 degree spread to fine time adjust by advancing or retarding the distributor
** An important note ** It was brought to my attention that the DIY manuals (ie. Haynes, Chiltons) fail to make a very important part of the timing procedure clear, in that they do not state in bigger BOLDER UPPER CASE FONT THAT STANDS OUT, the test connector wires with the green plugs should ONLY be plugged in whiling checking the timing or making adjustments then re-checking. If the diagnostic wires are plugged in during normal driving, your subbie will run like garbage, and until you unplug those diagnostic wired the are located right underneath the steering wheel the black connector wires are form reading the stored error codes and the green force the computer to run in diagnostic code, and both connectors should always remain unplugged when driving, and ONLY plugged in during diagnostic tests. It often leaves you playing a never ending game of "stump the dummy" so yes, there is a "trick" and that is to unplug the diagnostic connectors after you've timed the engine
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