My 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix ran hot and will not start. Is there a reset for fuel system?
Did you continue driving it until it died on you or you shut it off when you saw it ran hot?
No reset for the fuel system, need the check the antifreeze level, check to make sure the cooling fans are coming on and possible the thermostat is not opening causing you ride to over heat.
No start, but what, cranks the engine? can you hear the pump, then does the pump run again while cranking? did it lose spark? that would shut down the fuel by design. recalls involving electrical parts exist, did they get done?
Is there an antitheft light ? codes in memory? some start after waiting with key on. you need to check all these things and decide what condition exists. then theres action to take, but based on what you have or do not. you may need a tech just to determine the answers to these questions so far.
When overheated these engines go into "limp mode". The computer alternately fires cylinders and the " dead " cylinders act as an air pump to get rid of the excess heat. I'd check for no spark first by spraying some starting fluid down the throttle body. If it won't run on the starting fluid for a few seconds it's an ignition problem (no spark). If it does run on the starting fluid, it's a fuel problem. I'm leaning towards a fried ignition module, but check it out to be sure. HTH. - Jim
I have seen that, jim, the spark seeks least resistance, jumps to the nearest ground, like the nearby engine block. a tell tale "hole" appears in the sandwiched plate between the coils and the riser. thats the ignition module....next step, would be (if found evident) loacate and remove the increased resistances in the secondary ignition parts, A/C delco are the longest lasting , updated well made parts and redundant circuitry reduces repeat failure. Then change the fuel and air filters and replace fluids as required to catch up to the maintenance schedule you set for your type of usage.
If it started after the antitheft start procedure, you would pull the codes of all types before googling them and finding your next choice to make, or run pinpoints based on your circumstances.
If your cooling fan was full of dirt, you could clean it to get it to bench test, using contact cleaner and follow with some penetrant, then compressed air. if the controls for the propeller were not turning it on but you were sitting in traffic, you would note the overheat. then likely need to update your thermostat, diag the controls, check the connector that attaches there at the front to be sure it was even connected to run the thing (cooling fan motor). After all these possibilities ? You could clear the memory and go back thru the function tests, see what condition prevails, and retest till you found a fault, and service that with pinpoint tests. This is why you need an experienced tech to help make the judgement, system, to component, to cause, retest.
You need to keep the battery charged up during all this and clean connections to reduce troubles there, the little bolts pop out to allow removal of the red and black covers. the little bolts are inadequate in many cases, and updated bolts are offered to correct. theres a bulletin directing technicians to inspect and evaluate as required. then clean those cable end to battery connections with a brush before reassembly. I then follow each wire to its next function and check that connection, verify clean and tight. these prechecks smooth out the diagnosis and eliminate erroneous readings. thats the nature of the 15+ year old beast.
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