2001 3.8 town and country ...map sensor ???
replaced the map sensor on this vehicle per the P106 and P107 codes at autozone and on the odometer, and it still runs like crap, barely runs, and still showing the same codes?????
any ideas? thanks Ted
There are only three things that will trip both codes.. A faulty MAP sensor, a faulty sensor ground, and a bad PCM... Since I will never assume the problem to be the PCM until no other choices remain.. And the fact that the MAP sensor is brand new... My recommendation would be to inspect the wire harness and wires coming off of the MAP sensor. Make sure that they are not burned, broken, etc. Inspect the plug to ensure proper connection and that there in not any grease, dirt, or moisture in the connector. If you cannot find any problems, then it may be the pcm. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0107 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106
Thank you Mike, I did get a new fault code last nite, P320. Says its the crankshaft positioning sensor. It actually ran last nite just fine for a couple hours and then when I shut it down it would not re-start. I really cant afford to just start replacing all the sensors but is this sensor something that goes out often? thanks again, Ted
A bad crankshaft position sensor does go out. Very uncommon. Almost as uncommon as a map sensor or computer (PCM) going out. Knowing that you now have 3 unrelated sensor codes with the only thing common between all three being a Bad PCM....... As much as I hate ruling a Bad PCM as the problem, they do go out, and in your case I truly do feel the PCM is bad and is your main problem.
If your vehicle is not starting currently then the p0320 being a a no crank reference signal will be the cause of the no start condition. If i were a betting man i would say the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) is your culpret. Furthermore, in regards to your p0106 and p0107 codes, even though you replaced the sensor, doesnt mean that the new one in box wasnt also bad. This is a very common occurrence. Without any form of diagnostic tools/test light/Digital Multi Meter (DMM), once you can get it running i would try tapping on the sensor and see if idle improves or id even go as far as to unplug the sensor while its running to see if it effects the idle. If either 'test' effects the operation of the engine than the 'new' sensor is bad. If youre feeling really brave, go to sears and spend $20 on a DMM and start testing the circuits with the help of a chiltons manual. Or, more realistically, you could take it to your dealer, which will fix it with all the necessary diagnostic equipment at there beck and call.
Odds are its not your PCM. Very rarely on the NGC Controller type ECM (what your vehicle has) do they go bad catastrophically. NEVER REPLACE IT YOURSELF...it must be programed!
Jonathan does bring up a very important point. DO NOT replace the PCM yourself. Now I do disagree with Jon, but that can be ruled out by personal opinion. I just have a belief that if there is one common culprit, it should be addressed first. Very unlikely multiple parts will fail at the same time. And if multiple codes being given and the vehicle barely running is not "catastrophic failure of the ECM," then what is?
As with anything though, sometimes it is best to have a professional look at the problem.. Most of the time that is cheaper then just throwing money at it...
On the crank sensor topic, I have a 2000 Chrysler T&C and about every six months it decides to crank but not fire / start. It has been to the garage 2X and it starts once it gets there or sits for a day. No codes are generated as it doesn't start. I am ready to start plugging and shrugging and someone recommended replacing the crank sensor. Next time it does this, should I try a gentle tap? The car does not have a grey key so I am assuming that it does not have a security system that would inhibit the car from starting????
if you stillhave vech. wap the top of inst. cluster....security is in there
was commenting on 2000 model
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