Where to check the transmission fluid on an Chevy hhr

Asked by Aug 02, 2015 at 06:42 PM about the 2010 Chevrolet HHR

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

10 Answers


Instructions Difficulty: Moderate Things You'll Need: Hydraulic lift or oil change bay Drip pan Step 1: Make arrangements to use a hydraulic lift or underground oil change bay. Keep in mind that the transmission fluid must be hot to be checked accurately, so you'll need to drive your HHR directly to the lift or bay after about 15 minutes of driving. This may complicate the timing if you're using someone else's lift or bay, so plan ahead and make an appointment if necessary. If possible, divide your 15 minutes of driving time between side streets and high-speed highways. This will force the car to go through all its gears during the drive, which will better distribute and warm up the transmission fluid. Step 2: Park the car over either a lowered lift or an open underground oil change bay. Leave the engine running. If you're using a hydraulic lift, make sure the lift arms are positioned under solid parts of the auto frame and use the controls to raise it up. You'll need to raise it high enough that you can get underneath it comfortably, but low enough that you can reach the transmission case. Step 3: Look at the bottom of the transmission case at the front of the HHR. You should see 2 removable plugs labeled "Drain" and "Check." Position a drip pan beneath the Check plug and unscrew the plug.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

Read this and take your car in for service, why do you think it needs checking? Is it not operating properly? There's no dipstick. See this, http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2007_Chevrolet_HHR_LT_2.2L_4_Cyl./transmission_fluid/check_fluid_level

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

The dip shits left out the dip stick.


Hi Carson, it's a sealed transmission, just like many new cars. Hope you're doing well.


Markw1952, yes us old-timers can't seem to wrap our heads around progress. Makes sense though. Not many transmissions seem to develop leaks now-a-days, so I believe there is a sensor to tell if the fluid is getting low? If it leaves spots on the garage floor, than it is low due to leaking fluid. Kicking and screaming we are moving into the 20th century with the 21st in sight. I'm doing fine for a 70 year old. Need knee replacement so I can polish and wax the rocker-panels.


Carson, I wonder if I might pick your brain on something. We take our Outback to National Parks and have been over some dirt and gravel roads, took it to the trail head of the Chicago Stump in Sequoia. A non maintained road full of potholes and washed out sections. Car made it fine aside from getting dirtier than hell. My question is, should I consider protective skid plates? My only reservation is that it will make it a little more complicated in changing the oil if they have to remove the plates. The website at Primitive Racing and the folks there say you can get the plates with an optional 4 inch oil access holes and fumoto valve, but, having the hole kind of negates the whole purpose of having a protected undercarriage. Normally, I don't drive on back roads, but the idea of having them seemed cool for those situations and I wouldn't have to worry about it. What do you think?


Here's the link to Primitive Racing, take care of your knee! http://get-primitive.com/3-protection-skidplates


Like I said above, old timer wisdom or questions. What is the true need for the skid plate other than the obvious? There are several ways to go, depending on the wants and needs. If you are off road racing, or doing ralley races, you need to use a very strong plate, of steel or such, and then the thickness. Remember the plates do several things other than make you decide if you need a proctologist or tree surgeon. Plates add weight so your overall mileage will drop on normal road trips. If you on occasion go off road and than hardly once in a while create your own path, you will need something with structural stability. Steel plates. There're aluminum plates that weigh less, but give up some protection if you're racing and bouncing on rocks, tree stumps or branches. If you go off road on marked trails and deep tire tracks and rub, fiber glass may be the way to go. If you get metal of any kind, why can't you put in or cut a trap door that can be unbolted to change the oil? How often will you do this? If you three or four times a year go max off roading, do you need it on year round? Look at what Markw1952 sent as a link, and see what is available to fit your true needs. I person does not need a big blower on his Vega coupe to go back and forth to work in a big crowded city. On the up side, it give you protection for the oil pan and transmission as well as the passengers when you do go off road or hit that object in the roadway. The extra weight also lowers the center of gravity. So my answer is: Find what you really need and see if you can operate or live with the results it gives. It is better to be protected than not. Tow bills are very high off road in a very remote area.


I took my GMC Terrain to most of the National parks in South Utah last year and went off road a lot. I just didn't go fast, and had no problems or felt I was in danger of poking holes in the car.


Carson, thank you, I appreciate what you're saying here. Yes, I do go slow in these situations and everything seemed fine. You're right, you definitely have to go slow. SO, I may decide to skip the whole thing! I don't race my car, or travel in the these areas often. Seems like a lot of money and headache for the limited time I use this. I guess I was thinking about being prepared.

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