Stalling out and wont stay running. Acts like it wants to run but gets choked out.
I have a similiar problem as devin, my 95 Sierra 4x4 it has a 350 5.7L engine and the fuel filter has been replaced I cleaned the injectors out and put a new gasket on. The shop said I have good fuel pressure but I am choking out even when not in gear. but I can keep it running if I pump the gas. I was told it was the cadiladic converter but that was not the issue. Once it is in gear It will not stay running unless you use the 2 foot method and it is very rough and wont run for more than a minute. It never did this untill I got it back from the collision center after I was hit in the front passenger side?
most modern cars have a fuel cut off sensors on diferent parts of the body it might be one of them playing up?
Do u know where they r located at on these types of trucks side of engine or back plugged into fuel pump
Mine was the fuel filter. Replaced it and no more problem.
Ford is the only domestic company to use those fuel cut switches. My 1990 also did the same thing and it turned out to be a combination of the fuel filter and pump. The dirty filter destroyed the pump. Who replaced your filter?
the collision shops maintenance and diagnostic center changed it. my pump is working i disconnected the hoses from the injectors and it pumps out gas when the key is turned on. I disconnected the map sensor and it will idle but still dies when it goes into gear. I have fuel puddling up on top of the right fuel injector. I am thinking that one of the injectors has something inside of it or it went out and the fuel was not getting out like it should, it was holding gas in the driver side injector. So I got a new one but with the cold weather as i was putting it back together one of the connectors that the return fuel line screws into broke. So i am on a hold up till I can find another housing for the injectors.
My pump worked also. Just because its putting out fuel doesn't mean its enough pressure. My truck was putting out 8 psi at idle its supposed to be around 10-13. A minimum of 9 and Max of 13 anything outside of that is not ok. Do a pressure test once you get it back together.
its putting our 10 psi on the fuel. could it possibly be an oxygen sensor? I am just out of thoughts. What is connected or is anything connected to the passenger side quarter panel or the front part of the truck? It ran for a week just fine after the wreck but I drove it for 20 min maybe after I got it back from the repair shop and it sputtered and died on me. Could there be something that they left off? Such as a ground wire or something on that side of the truck?
Yea the plug that controls the electronic timing in the distributor is on the passengers side on the firewall. What is the fuel pressure when its in gear? Could be quite a few different things, including a coincidence that it happened after the shop.
Ok and idk what it is It won't stay running to be able to get a pressure. And yea I think it almost has to be something they have left off or did when doing the repair. Before it went in you could not tell it was in a wreck when u were inside and driving it. But I drove it maybe 5 miles before it started stalling out and not running.
None of this works
Got it fixed a couple weeks Ago. The sending unit went out it was putting out half what it's suppose to but was holding pressure. I replaced the sending unit and fuel pump
would your truck begin to idle high before it died out?
My truck has begun to do this and i do not know if i should take the tank back off and replace the assembly to the fuel pump
Not really it more or less choked it's self out unless you were giving it has in order to keep it running at all you had to 2 foot it.
I've changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, EGR solenoid and valve and now I am stumped beside changing the sending unit.
it was the injector connectors on mine the injectors would pop up..i would just have to push them back down
What was the verdic? Im having exactly same problem,new pump filter regulator cap rotor cam and crank sensor plugs wires
Daniel email me at firstname.lastname@example.org i have the same issue please help, truck runs for 20 min and shuts off just had injecotrs replaced with used ones i think its the same issue
OK people, I have a 1993 GMC K1500 with a 5.0L and had the intermittent 2 footed get home issue described here. Changed everything from the fuel pump, lines, and filter all the way up to the throttle body. I ended up with a slight different issue with the flooding out at that point that some of you describe. Then I went and changed the Throttle Position Sensor. Nothing. Same problem. I was totally perplexed. As I was staring at the throttle body it dawned on me. No one ever mentions the fuel pressure regulator that the injectors are sitting on!! So, I popped off the new injectors I put in and changed that regulator with a new one. Not the kit to rebuild but a whole new unit. $20 difference in price. The thing runs perfect now. That is the one thing no one ever mentions but it is the one thing that worked as soon as I put the new one in. It was an issue with improper regulation of the quantity of fuel to the injectors and it was flooding the thing out. Hope that helps!! :)
I have a 98 gmc searria 4×4 i checked fuel pressure it was under i changed fuel pump and fuel filter and its still starving for fuel what to do it starts with starting fluid
I have a fully restored 1991 Chevy Suburban that has fresh engine transmission rear end paint interior and I have left nothing undone or unrefreshed. About 3 months ago it quit running cold in Houston and had to have it towed back to Dallas. For all parts below I acquired all parts thru O'Reillys Auto Parts. Hereth begins the diagnostics, no CHECK ENGINE LIGHT was produced. Similar issue occured 3 years ago on an older engine ,same truck. At that time it was a bad EGR VALVE. I had bypassed the vacuum source and it ran fine. So I replaced with AC DELCO EGR Valve and that fixed the issue. That was then this is now!!!!!!!! So isolating the EGR did not fix it this time. Symptoms are: starts, runs fine, until warmed up and then the engine will lose all power and act as if its starving for fuel. Starting there the original tank had broken plastic windage tray baffles in it so I replaced the fuel tank with new tank and replaced with a new pump and hanger assy. No change. Next, took the car to local Chevy Dealer that has several old school techs still working. After running their tests they figured the ECM was failing. So I purchased a reman'd unit thru O'Reillys Auto Parts. Swapped the CAL unit and reinstalled it. No change. Forget the dealer, they were useless. Next, read when MAP sensor can cause this similar condition, replaced MAP Sensor. No change. Next, replaced EGR, EGR sensor. No change. Next, replaced distributor. I had found traces of surface rust on reluctor on distributor shaft so pickup coil maybe effected. New distributor comes with new ESC electronic unit, pickup coil, cap & rotor, also. No change. Next, read somewhere that the fuel pressure regulator diaphram if split could cause flooding. rebuilt throttle body unit, rebushed it and boiled it out and added rebuild kit and brand new Borg Warner injectors. No change. Next, read somewhere that Engine Oil Pressure sender (behind and below the distributor) since it serves and oil pressure guage sender and fuel cutoff switch in case of loss of oil pressure, replace it with new to eliminate that. No change. Next, read somewhere that bad ground wire on Thermostat housing can cause ECM issues. Checked it, cleaned it off, verfied that contact wanhers are all steel and attract a magnet, reinstall the ground wire. No change. Next, read somewhere that Engine Coolant Temp Sensor if malfunctioning could cause the ECM to think the engine is at -40 deg F in dflt mode. This would make the IAC Valve stay or go closed as if ewngine were in cold start mode. This would cause flooding since the injectors are receiving signals from the ECM that its a cold start so needs little air and lots of fuel. Replace dhte driver side (left side) Coolant Temp Sensor (1 wire pigtail) unit. No change. BUT BUT BUT, I forgot that there is a 2nd Temp Sensor (2 wire pigtail) unit mounted very front of intake manifold just to the front of the thermostat housing area. I pulled it and replaced it. BINGO!!!!! Problem resolved. Now I know why ODBI only lasted a couple of years. Its all about luck. Yes..... if I had started with the coolant temp sensor first I would have gotten off cheap. But all items replace can potentially cause this symptom.
You might want to spray some carburetor cleaner over the injectors and see if the engine sounds better, if so check with a flashlight and light up behind the injector to see if the spray is full or semi full with some drops coming out.... If so replace the faulty injector.
Mine is doing the same thing and I checked my injectors last week and my #6 injector has moist dirt around it and none of the others do. That's my next replacement.
Has anyone else figured anything else out that helps?
I'm thinking of replacing the vehicle. I grew up with "Don't throw good money after bad."
I am having a simular issue - I have noticed that usually shutting off the engine and coasting for about ten seconds then restarting seems to recycle something and ot runs better most times after that. I have changed temp sensors, replace throttle position sensor, replaced fuel regulator, cleaned throttle body asy. and ignition module inside the distributor. Flashed a check engine light for the first time yesterday...
I have this same issue with a 2000 Yukon, just spent $299 plugs and wires... no help.
I have a 1988 GMC C1500 V8 5.7L EFI. Having the same issues. starts, half the time idles super rought then kills. As soon as its out into gear it kills. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel line and fuel pump. Injectors look to be spitting good and all hoses seem to be good. IDK where to start, everyone thats been buying sensors and what not dont seem to be having any luck, I see someone solved there problem similar to this with a new fuel pressure regulator. Anyone have any different tips?
I don't have an answer but heres my problem .. 1989 gmc K1500 5.7 i'm driving around corner from Lowes and it stalls out like no gas looking at the gauge it seems low I buy gas and pour in gas tank usually kicks over it didn't so find myself pour in gas into the efi body to get it parked .. Summer time 95 outside , I go back to it 6 hours later it starts up I drive it home .
Next day it begins to stall I fill it up new filter new pump drive about a week same thing starts to happen , I drop tank again change pump replace sock , check plugs replace 4 fine for another few days same-thing after warm up stalls out like no gas , putts and then dies until I restart it .
There are so many people with the same issue with no one answer. Have changed the fuel tank, pump and filter. Changed the injectors, rebuilt the TBI and the MAP sensor, as well as the temp cooling sensor on the front of the motor. There is no code given. The truck runs rough, stalls cold or hot. Starting the truck it is hard to start and once it starts, the truck wants to stall when slowing down to turn or stop. Have use both feet to keep it running. The motor sounds rough while driving. Seems to not getting enough gas. Getting ready to change the regulator under the injectors. Hoping this helps, have spent so much time ND money just to get it running again.
Hi, same probs w/ my 94 yukon. Have u replaced the sending unit for the fuel pump? Let me know if changing the regulator works for you. Thanks
I had the same issue and then we replaced the distributer and that fixed it
I have a '92 ford ranger, It'll sit there and idle just fine but when I put it in gear and put a load on it it chokes itself out. I've replaced the egr valve, Fuel injectors, Fuel pump, Fuel filter and throttle position sensor and it still does the same thing. Will idle just fine but when I go to drive it and put a load on it, It just loses all power. I need some help?
Ford ranger try fuseable link
Ok I have a 1994 GMC 1500 sierra 5.0 305 it dies in gear sound awesome in idle but dies have changed the tps,the EGR Vacuum Solenoid the Idle Air Control Valve , TBI Base Gasket,Fuel Pressure Regulator,Throttle Body Rebuild Kit,be for it went out as u would accelerate it would lose power now u start it it runs awesome and dies in less on the gas u put it in gear it dies in less u to foot it need help any one care to pick at it ?
danddraves..... Did you ever discover an answer for your problem with the 94 GMC 1500 that got it running? With all the repeats of the same identical problem on multiple GMC vehicles from multiple years and "no fix" for the problem, I'm beginning to believe that GMC intentionally placed a built in flaw in the ECU.
Win a million dollars. Well at least win the eternal gratitude of all the GMC owners in the country who are experiencing this same identical problem with virtually "all" GMC vehicles. Find the solution to why the same problem consistently occurs.
A year ago, I had a problem with my 95 GMC wanting to stall out when warmed up, then wouldn't restart until it cooled off for several hours. I ultimately ended up rebuilding my distributor and replaced the ignition pickup coil. Problem solved. Now I am having an issue with it wanting to stall right after its started. I have some diagnosis to perform.
I use to be a big fan of Haynes and Chilton's manuals, but neither was a substantial help in trying to solve my problem. As for my replacing the distributor, it got the truck up and running and at least drivable. However there are still a couple of short gremlins somewhere that I'm going to have to chase down......I was unable to do that with Haynes or Chilton's, (Both manuals are printed and distributed by the same company, and one has things that the other doesn't).....The color codes on the wires were often wrong for "my" truck, and there were several instances where the wire color for a sensor was red with black stripe on "this" page, but showed orange on another page. I ordered a cd that was more tailored to my own vehicle from Bishko autobooks last Thursday evening and got it in the mail today.....If you need a manual to help, I would suggest going either with Bishko which gives more descriptive information on where objects are located on your truck...... A printed manual cost's bucks plus, but the cd cost a total of 46 bucks including shipping....I immediately copied the disk I received to my back-up hard drive, and stored the original disk in a safe place......Individual pages are relatively simple to print from Adobe, and you could, if you wanted to, print out all (over 1500) pages from your computer.....I'll never buy another Haynes or Chilton's....and have one of each that I'll sell to anyone interested for half of what O'Reilly's or Autozone will charge for them..... Oh, by the way, my truck wants to try and stall until it's warmed up......I'm still on the kick that the DRL relay or diode is causing mixed signals to be sent to the PCM....Hopefully the Bishko manual will help me chase the gremlin before it gets wet and starts popping out baby gremlins..... Oh, and there is another place that you can get a manual that is more tailored to your specific vehicle, going back at least fifty years according to what I saw..... Helms automotive manuals.....Both are relatively easy to find on line, if you might be interested.
I have a 94 GMC 1500 5.7 liter 4wd. 2 months ago it started running rough and had a loss of power. I replaced fuel filter, plugs and cleaned distributor points and ground contacts. No change. I took it in to get the emissions test done (required in my state) and it failed on the idle test. Took it to a shop. They did a compression test and flushed the transmission. Mechanic drove it several times, acknowledged the problem and said it's getting too much fuel and at the end of the day said it was the fuel pressure regulator. I got a rebuild kit consisting of new diaphragm and spring. Has slightly more power but still runs rough and appears to be getting too much fuel still. I asked the mechanic if any sensors were bad would I get a light and he said yes I would. No lights but is still not running right and still need to get it through emissions.
93 1500 5.7 here and had same issue as so many out there and did just about everything everyone else did with no change until I started looking at the oil. Although the gauge was good I removed the valve cover and saw I wasn't getting oil up there as needed so replaced the oil sending pump and although gauges remained the same(good pressure, good temp, no lights) my problem was solved. I couldn't tell anyone why I had no check engine or why my gauges read good with it but for some reason the truck didn't stay running maybe my pressure gauge went bad too and didn't notify me something was wrong IDK
I have a 89 chev celebrity when I am in line at the school it will idle high and choked out and died it does this sometimes at a stop light it runs find it only does it at stop lights and at school
I also had a 1989 Chevy Celebrity with the 2.8 V6 and it would idle but as soon as you pressed the gas it would stall out. After 5 months of research and trial and error, computer diagnostics it turn out that 3 of the 6 fuel injectors were shooting a stream of gas out instead of a spray pattern. I replaced all 6 injectors and it fixed the problem
My 88 gmc will run unless I'm turning or driving in 1st then it just dies N won't start for bout 30 mins any thought
Seems like GM has set this up so you have to take it in for service and use their "fancy" computer to narrow down problems like this. It sends them work in their service centers(where they make a lot of their money) and/or makes people give up on them as one poster said "good money after bad". I too have a 97' 5.7 suburban that runs and drives very strong except for it stalls moreover dies at idle. It does a little better when warmed up but still dies. It ran so strong I put a new Napa battery, water pump and Goodyear Wranglers on all 4. Now its worth maybe $1000 because of the idle/dies problem. Has all codes clear but has monitors for O2 and Cat. Nice leather interior and straight body but now it seems to be a waste of money.
It isn't just GM and Chevy that are doing this to their vehicles. Over 95 percent of all vehicles manufactured since the early 2000's cannot be worked on at all unless they are taken to an adequately equipped service center..... The computer diagnostic equipment only narrows the problem down to one of five or six possibilities..... Have seen more than a single occasion where the diagnostics indicated something like an O2 sensor, but be unable to distinguish "which" O2 sensor was bad..... And even then, neither of the O2 sensor's were defective, but the on board computer was receiving an incorrect signal through the O2 circuit because of an incorrect signal from something else being sent through the sensor..... I had, still have, the same idle problem with a 94 GMC C1500. Replaced a 5.0 with a completely rebuilt, top to bottom, front to back 5.7 not long after my problem started..... New ignition switch, computer, all sensors, VSS buffer.....Over 2500 in that truck.....Had one mechanic put a diagnostic tool on it and tell me the problem was with the ignition switch.....until I told him that I had just replaced that less than two weeks ago.....Finally just bought a 90 Chevy with a 5.7 in it and parked the 94 inside a garage.....Where it will sit, started and driven a mile or so ever so often, until the engine blows in the 90.....I can also salvage other parts from the 94 to put on the 90 in a lot of instances.....And I extremely seriously doubt that I will ever own another vehicle newer than a 93.....Have already switched from a dodge man to a ford man to a Chevy / GMC man because of the relative ease in working on Chevy / GMC pickup manufactured between 88 and 93 with a TBI and a non-electronically controlled transmission.....More than the two wires coming from the speed sensor on the tail shaft, and I don't want it.....I actually have two problems with the 94 now; Trans doesn't like to change gears right when driving, which is why I decided to get the 90 and just park the 94 and "maybe" worry about trying to trace down the short in the wiring behind the dash, which is what I strongly suspect is the cause for the not wanting to idle.
Crank Position Sensor ... not positive but might be
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