I was driving my 78 ford LTDII the other day and my breaks stopped working, the pedal just goes all the way to the floor no resistance, what is the problem?

75

Asked by Jan 15, 2014 at 11:55 PM about the 1978 Ford LTD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

30 Answers

A leak in the hydraulic circuit...if all four wheels are NOT activating would replace the Master Cylinder because it has two circuits there and they cannot both be bad unless the cylinder is compromised~ https://www.google.com/#q=78+ford+LTD+II+brake+master+cylinder

have your brake system inspected...hoses go bad...seals will leak~

75

yeah like my E brake works, just the break pedal goes all the way to the floor,

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

thank heaven for that....lotta people ignore them torquing the transmission mounts and parking pawl...good for you...now get the new master cylinder...they ain't too much....get some line wrenches and a bottle of brake fluid and do it yourself~

10

usually when your pedal goes to floor. there is a leak in your brake lines somewhere. put cardboard under car where brake lines run and step on brake pedal a few times and then check for brake fluid on cardboard.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

good point terlan, but BOTH braking circuits?...this tells me intenal tear in the main seal...perhaps between the two circuits~ (circuses)~

he'd be low on fluid toooo, which he ain't~

75

disk brakes in the front, Drum breaks are in the back this is what they both look like.

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75

disc*

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

leakin' to beat the band...no problem...replace the wheel cylinders now~

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1448481010084175849? q=77%20ford%20LTD%20II%20disc%20calipers&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&biw=1 152&bih=627&bvm=pv.xjs.s.en_US.Jo8Jz3WaIJI.O&tch=1&ech=1&psi=e13 YUtzcO8WdyQGa_oCoBQ.1389900667563.3&ei=m13YUredA- SMyQGWrYGIBA&ved=0COcBEKYrMAg&prds=hsec:online

https://www.google.com/#q=78+ford+LTD+II+wheel+cylinders&tbm=shop

75

Yeah im just going to make it rear disc brakes, what do i need to just do a regular oil at home?

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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a121/overview/

Hydraulic brake fluid...not oil...this isn't India~

1,265

When you lose front and back at the same time, there are two main things to check first. The master cylinder, as Judge Roy say, but also the proportioning valve. I have had both front and back lines break, and while there was a LOT more pedal motion than normal, the cars did stop. In fact, on the fronts alone the braking was not that much different than normal.

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75

How much would it cost to convert back brakes to disc brakes

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$990.37

75

it seems to be leaking at the bottom of the drums, but the cables are all okay and everything, thinking its the cylinder near the brake fluid holder? my shoes are fine drums have to be replaced , can it be leaking from somewhere else in the brakes?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

no...it's the wheel cylinders...they almost always needed to be changed as the boot, when pryed back would show evidence of primary seal leakage on nearly every car inspected...so they are relatively cheap....'lot cheaper then a disc brake conversion already snooped out prices for you time to chomp on the bone and get 'em~

1,265

Wheel cylinders are about $20 each, if that. Cheap and easy fix. The rear brakes on these cars are sized right, so you should have no problem with brakes. I would, though, check that proportioning valve! If you had no brakes because the rear wheel cylinders leaked, you NEED to change that valve, no two ways about it. With NO fluid in the back, the fronts should still give you most of your braking power.

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75

yeah im going to get the wheel cylinders today. can they be replaced at home or by a shop?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

well the hydraulic lines require a bit of a "subtle hand" and are easily over- tightened...if you feel confident that you're able to deal with the level of complexity...use your digital camera, so you're able to put it back again...two tools the spring remover for that pin that holds the shoes on...and the spring tool which has a stretchy extension part on one end (almost worthless) and on the other end a "spring installer" which you'll need to put it back together...and of course a line wrench for the hydraulic fitting and a small wrench to "bleed" the cylinder once it's installed....if you're comfortable with all them things...ya, the job is yours~

75

my brake line rusted off of where it used to be connected to the brake cylinder , how much are new brake lines cant seem to find any prices.

well these are all custom...measure and bend at the right spots...put the fitting on and use the "flare tool" to make the connection seal...you've got to take some measurements then head on down to the autoparts store where they'll bend one for you or give you the tools to do it yourself....there's an outside chance that there are pre-fabricated ones out there....just tell me which one's and will try to get it for you~

75

I just need both in the rear better just to replace them both at the same time , need them for 78 ford LTDII

1,265

You can buy straight pieces of line, with the correct fittings on them, and then bend them yourself. The tubes on the back axle are pretty simple bends, and a pipe bender is only a few bucks.

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75

How much is it just for the straight ones?

okay---flare tool length of brake line and fittings all in one free shipping ordeal~http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63030K/10002/-1? CAWELAID=1710803149&catargetid=1892960814&cadevice=c&&cagpsp n=pla&gclid=CMaoh5SgjbwCFahDMgods1UApA

1,265

The straight lengths you need, with the flare done, will be somewhere around $20. The bender is about $10. So for roughly $30 you are good to go and have the bender for next time. That way, you don't have to experiment making the double flares on something as important as brakes.

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