i have a 98 plymouth breeze 2.4l that will not start
i started yesterday and like 2 seconds after it started it shut off. i tried to restart but it does not crank fully. only turns over.
i had this happen before and it was a bad fuse. i replaced the fuse and recently replaced the (distribitor cap-i forget proper name where spark plugs go). i also found a small wire that was broke (it looked kinda purple or green) that was behind the engine.
i didnt hear the fuel pump but i m letting it sit to let pressure come out of the line. i got a code p0141 and a p0138. any ideas why i am not able to start?
I knew you would figure it out. been watchin' and learnin'
always check for security issues first as they can disable !that wire may also have broke from distribitor
Thank you so much for help. Now I have an Idea where to look for the wire. Would the 02 sensor keep the car from starting?
thank you very much for that info. i had been reading different sites and some of them said that the 02 sensors don't cause it from starting. so i was a little confused about that. umm.... do the 02 sensors prevent the car from cranking? right now it still turns over and there is no exhaust fumes from the process of turning the engine. in the picture above there is more than one wire. the wire i found was only 1 wire wrapped in the hard plastic protective shell and leading into the firewall on the driver side, but it was long enough to be next to the location of the sensor. i will have to try when its my days off later on in the week. i will definitely let yall know how it goes. i greatly appreciate the help you are providing.
it will run with the o2 unplugged
okay thank you. will try the wire repair and update yall when complete. if yall have any other suggestions please feel free to let me know.
i want to replace both 02 sensors since i am getting an error message. the first sensor is behind the engine next to the fire wall and the second is in the exhaust correct? any advice for working in the tight space and for disconnecting the cable from the sensors?
Thank you very much. i dont have a harbor freight but i do have an advance auto parts that rents the kit. for the sealant i just need to ask for 02 sensor sealant? i read online that a 7/8 open end will work, i think i may get the kit since i want good leverage and dont want to round it off.
i appreciate the honest truth. i am going to start early on my day off and attempt to replace the part. i should just ask for 02 sealant when i get the replacement part?
sorry i didnt refresh page before i posted. thank you very much. it means a lot. i am a guy who is trying to keep my car running. i am trying to do alot of the work myself since the garage prices are going up but my pay isn't lol
i read that link you provided and it says that i need to clean the manifold threads with a tap. is this necessary?
if you want a good ground why yes! save your old ones too
a good ground? im slightly confused. also i am not able to find a crow foot air sensor wrench but i was able to find a crow foot 7/8 wrench. would that work? thank you sooooo very much for your assistance. i greatly appreciate it.
And to give you an idea of the over principal and setup this is a fairly good picture of what the whole setup is, I don't know what you have in the way of tools. And you will need to determine really what you need to get up in there, as far as extension, a swivel head ratchet it's really difficult to tell you exactly put I'm trying to get you at least pointed in the right direction and then your imagination and skill will have to do the work,,, OK bro, just don't get panicky and worried, you will figure it out !!!!
for power would an open end wrench or a ratchet with a universal joint be better? i am looking to use as much leverage as possible with the least amount of force. i will probaly spray the spot down all day to get it loose then work on it the next day. i don't have many tools, i have a basic tools that let me do what i have to. i just got to remember to get a 13mm socket lol
Just got back, and yes a regular open end wrench would work, provided it's long enough to reach up to where you need to get to the sensor. Only you will be able to make that decision and soaking it down with penetrating oil would be helpful because they do get like nearly welded into it's insert. And it will more than likely take some muscle to loosen it, so a long open end could work, depending on how much room there is. It's really hard to answer your question without being able to look at what you are going to be dealing with myself. I've often thought how great it would be if someone would be techy enough to take their laptop out and a web cam and some audio and then I could just walk them right thru the whole process, but no one has came up with that yet. It would make this a much simpler process. I wish I was getting paid for this, that would make doing this a good paying job. Takes for ever to try and help explain all the little things involved. If you've noticed many of the guys will just give you a sentence or two and I guess your supposed to figure it out the rest of the way, it's generally just not that simple as you can see. I'm just not like that and I will stick with someone till hell freezes over, just as long as the person is really trying I won't just up and disappear because the person isn't getting it. So, you pal are on the right track with your idea of using the penetrating oil and letting it sit overnight, then go at the next day. I am going to go look at the sensor and see for sure what size wrench you need, for sure. You don't need buying what you will only use once. If your really not intending to do a lot of wrenching. So I will check, I believe the 7/8", but would feel better reading it for myself.
Oh, by the way, I sure as hell hope this is the issue and not a loose plug wire or something from your coil pack you said that was replaced. I hope you checked all those plug wires just to make sure and that none loose or are laying on the manifold were they can melt and have an intermittent shorting causing your car to act like you are describing??
You should watch this as it shows some of the tools we have been talking about and gives you a little insight. ..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Imh9Q1YlWfk&playnext=1&list=PLD9ZqiiVhXXheK6BVIFCp0bVzSrekxe4B&feature=results_video ..... I am trying to find something that will get you even closer. This shows the crows foot I was talking about and actually the one for a O2 sensor, but he only shows himself doing the easy one. Also is this picture what your engine looks like?
thank you very much, checking the wires was my first step. that is the reason i replace the coil pack. i had a wire that had melted like you said and it shorted the pack (cracking it) so i replaced it with a new one. i rechecked those wires fues, replaced the plug wires, cam sensor and crank sensor....mmm just had a though if the crank sensor goes it will only allow the car to turn but not crank correct? what are your thoughts?
Wow, that was some incredible timing, I had just sat down logged in, saw I had one email, finished answering that, checked mail again and bling there you are. First thing is I want to tell you again, thank you for the thank you, that's is so much more than I get from others and really does make all this so much more worthwhile when I really know all is so appreciated, really, never hear that simple thank you. One thing that came to mind first off, is just how well you are doing and how well are minds are working together, I am very happy that what I had mentioned regarding the plug wires was already done and seeing how you have been able to and saw how those can melt and then the thought process you used to try and remedy this problem is dead on, like I said in the first post, this is step by step and I didn't really need to tell you that because you had already on your own done the first logical steps and that's a mechanical mind. First plug wires, when you replaced the plug wires you did get them all back in the correct order? I know that sounds dumb put you never know, someone says something to you and one space out and the plug wire is put in the wrong order, just a thought, also dielectric grease should always me used on both ends of the wire, keeps that green corrosion out and makes for a solid connection, also the on that crank sensor, I recall a friend and I sitting in my, what I call, my hobby shop as it's just a place I rent with 3500sq ft. to keep my cars and tools, toys and lift and teach younger guys how to do mods etc., but anyhow we where talking and he was telling about just that the crank sensor and how he had spent all day on a ride had changed all the sensor and couldn't figure out for the life of him what was wrong and why it wouldn't crank, he finally determined he had installed the crank sensor wrong. Now that was the end of the conversation and what he meant be wrong, I'm not sure, just recall the conversation. So, you might now if there is a way to install it upside down or other, I don't honestly know as I think I may have done one at some time or other put can't recall. What I will do is some research on that crank sensor and maybe you can go give it another look, however, now that I think of it, those codes. If the crank sensor was screwed why sure would have gotten a OBD code. And all we have code wise is O2, but frankly I think it should at least turn over put run really crappy as that sensor is the rich and lean condition and will screw up everything including all the other sensors. It is the most important sensor in the car. So, are you saying that it won't crank at all? I don't recall that being a problem, however, looking back up at this post which is now about two feet long, I don't remember you saying that it won't crank, just not fire is what I have been believing. Maybe telling me, besides the codes, again what the symptoms are, does it run at all, or just sit there and crank over like it wants to start but doesn't fire, or fires up put runs a bit and dies or runs really ruff. The last one their is a certain O2 sensor symptom. Run it by me again and I'm going back to the top and see where we started....LOL.. wow. Also, is that engine I pictured above your engine? And did you get a chance to watch the vid as it's fairly good at showing you some of the tools I have talked about and also mentions that all new O2 sensors come with the sealant on it, so that makes it obvious that I have not installed one now in a couple years as that's a new one on me. You see by doing this for other people, I get to keep up on what's new and get to help out with what I know, so it's a win win for me. So, for now, I don't think it's the crank sensor or we would have had a code, more than likely but never an absolute, you can't always rely on those codes, they are helpful but not always exact or telling you that is the only problem. Maybe look it over and see if anything doesn't look right, and if you have the firing order for your car, make sure the wires are in the right order, unless your positive. I want to say again, that I was really happy to see how your mind worked before you came here and your diagnosing the problem from the start was dead on and you did what was exactly right. I do want to get spooky but I hope the coil problem didn't send a major short or spark upstream to the PCM. That would mean, well never mind.... Have you soaked that O2? I think if the wires are in the correct order, then the O2 is most likely the problem. How did you get those codes, in Autozone? I know I ask a lot of questions and it's hard to answer them all as I have no thought pattern apparently, I just ask as I think and type here. I'm going to re-read the first couple posts, so I can remember what was the original symptoms. I be here for a bit, then I have to go to the shop as I'm expecting a new toy today... Talk to you soon. So, recap of things to do........Do let me know if that engine above is yours, if time allows watch that vid, double check firing order, look over your install of the crank sensor and cam for anything that looks wrong, like broke anything or maybe not completely connected, start analyzing what you are going to need to do and what tool you will need to loosen that O2, and if you have to go underneath, do you have jack stands, watch the vid to get a better idea of what some tool options are. And I will check something....LOL boy this is tough...but I am confident in you and I am sticking with you, I will go back and re-read the first few posts and see what I am forgetting.
Say, what engine are you running? 2.0 L I4 engine, five-speed manual transmission?? I have for some reason thinking 2.4L
Ya, what is confusing me is this, In 1998 Chrysler made some changes in the breeze and knowing the engine I can look at other cars that share the same platform and may be able to find out some work around ideas for that O2...: A more powerful engine was now available. The DOHC 2.4 L 4-cylinder was 150 hp (112 kW), the regular 2.0 L was 132 hp (98 kW). However, only an automatic transmission was available with the DOHC 2.4 L 4-cylinder engine. Like the Neon and Voyager, a new trim level, the Expresso, was also new for 1998. The Expresso added new features including different wheel covers.
I need a coffee
you are most welcomed. thank you is the phrase that is not used enough. i like your hobby shop. (insert man grunt). the symptoms are. i turn the key and it turns but doesnt catch. just that sawing sound cars make when they want to crank but dont. That is my engine 2.4l dohc. i havent had a chance to watch the vid since the site is blocked here where i am at. I have the correct firing order (at least thats what the haynes book told me lol) I kept my old coil pack that sort of worked (rough idle) i could use it as a test later if need be. i haven't had a chance to soak the 02 yet. i leave for work in dark and get home in the dark. but early thursday it will meet the pb blaster. ask all the questions you want because i am the same way. straight line thinking is overrated anyway lol. i actually have a scan tool. i got tired of driving back and forth to the store and having them do it. lol. thank you for your confidence. i will definitely keep you updated.
i am running a 2.4L DOHC automatic
Thanks, that helps..lol...wasn't sure if it was 2.0 or 2.4 but thought it was what it was. So, I need to get to going have a delivery today I have been waiting for two weeks and it's kind of like Christmas,,RTI ATX-3 Automatic Transmission Fluid Exchanger, tired of screwing around. And ya that thanks does mean a LOT. All you usually get here is what you have seen so far on this page, One liners or two if your unlucky. We'll get it. I have found some other stuff that is related and I'm glad I was looking at the right engine, LOL... Later bro Bye the way and you can PM this, but where the heck are you with a blackout, Iran? Anyhow, doesn't really matter and the Haynes is right for the firing order, we just cover all the bases and you are doing awesome and everything you have done even before coming here has been dead on. I read some stuff on that crank sensor and I want to give a buddy a call about that to check on something. And hold of soaking that and don't use WD40 regardless, that can foul up things other than the intended purpose, I got to thinking about that and residue could cause a problem down the line, the WD stands for Water Displacement, 40th try....LOL bet you didn't know that...LOL I'm serious, got to run, ye ha
actually i am at work now. the company has alot of sites blocked. ok, i will hold off on the spraying for now any recomendation on what to use to loosen the part? i did not know that about the wd40 but its an awesome fact. have fun with the new toy and remember to share lol
good news! i am back up and running. i was able to replace the sensors. got a few scrapes in the process. lol. unfortunately that wasnt the problem. turns out my fuel pump had went bad. i ended up replacing it which caused a few more scrapes, but i am running!! thank you thank you thank you for your help. still didnt find out where that wire went though lol. i am thinking it went to an add on part that was taken out.
Glad to hear that jecra. After all that a happy ending. I love happy endings. Best wishes, David
Well I be dipped in crap, I was reprimanded by the site about my foul mouth and the "s" word as they called it. So crap is the new norm...LOL I am so darn happy bro and take that you other wise A@S Guru clowns, I knew my guy could do it. You are the MAN and you have made my day in so many ways as I just got done writing you an email Dave. But this is so wonderful. There are so many failures on this site and when one goes good, no matter if it was this or that, the fact is that the one thing always will tattle tail on the other problem, as I have said and I said it here in the very first post to you brother, it's a step by step and never a one or two sentence fix. It takes patients and being relentless on my part to stick with someone and get dirty with you. And I am and have been proud to have been of some assistance to you. You have really made my day. And you are so very welcome... wow,... I knew you could do it. And look at all the knowledge you have gained. This was not a simple deal and it took a lot on your part and those....LOL forgot to tell you about that...LOL.. but admit it, the pain feels good doesn't it???? ....LOL... Ye Ha...There is a technique to find out what the problem is and unfortunately most the knuckleheads here that think they know something don't know anything and want to comment or dismiss my long explanations,, well suck something whoops almost slipped...LOL Hey that wire, just look under the dash and try and trace it down, someone probably had an aftermarket something or other and just took it out and left the wire. After what you just did bro, that's a snap. Hey, if you ever need anything you feel free to get hold of me.... dang.. this is so good and so very rare,,,, really. Good for you brother... you are now a genuine shade tree mechanic and a darn good one...LOL
I'd like to make another comment, of course, and there is a moral to this story for those other Gurus. And Jecra since this is a points kind of stupid thing which I can really car less, if you marked the very first post as the Best Answer, that hopefully will send a message to the others about how they should approach a person car problem, "Step by Step". The point is and what I have always done is, when I start with someone, I STICK with the person until the end. I don't give a one or two line guess and run off to another question. I spend sometimes hours just trying to get to the problem. So, ok it wasn't the O2 sensor, doesn't matter, one thing lead to another and if these Gurus knew anything really they should know that. But honestly most of the guys here are only guessing and anyone can do that. Can you stick with someone and walk them Step by Step and explain the tools or the thoughts behind the why or whats or reason the person should do something, whether it's the actual problem or not. It's impossible to fix a car online and the person doing the work like Jecra needs someone to explain what's a crow foot or what ever, it is never just two sentences, that's the point... I wish there was an archive on this site for the success stories as I have had I think only six or so on the site and about the same by email as the persons just got tired of clowns chiming in with nonsense suggestions and screwing everything up. It would be a very small archive frankly. But this one seems to have some kind of special sort of feeling for me anyhow and I am very proud of Jecra and I mean it brother. Scraped knuckles...LOL
He's probably out driving around...
lol. i am actually at work, but i was burning up the road this weekend. my roadtest lol. but i did mark the top answer as the best one. i appreciate your step by step guidance and patience. if i have any more issues i will definitely let you know.....mmm i think i need to tighten my powersteering belt... gonna start a new topic. lol
You are quit the guy, thank you for marking my post as the Best Answer, it's isn't a points thing with me, and though doubtful, marking that post is only trying to send a message about the need to approach these issues that people are having as a Step by Step and this was a very good example. Even though it wasn't the sensor we had thought, but because I think, you had someone who would stick with you and answer any questions that would come up and do like you and I did, this site can be so much more than what it is at the moment, meaning to me, it's really a joke and most of the time pointless and other times down right dangerous. I see some of these so called Gurus giving people out right dangerous suggestions. I flip out. But a success story like yours is just so great Jecra !! I can't tell you just how proud I am that you did it. That makes all the time I spent all worth it and for me the thanks, thanks, thanks...LOL you gave me is worth more than money. I am glad to have been of service and by the way on that belt. Look online for a serpentine belt pulley tension tool. The reason is, this tool is used to help take your serpentine belt off and to help put it back on. There is a tension wheel and if the diagram is still on your car, you will be able to see which one I'm talking about, you put this tool on the nut of that tensioner and pull it out of the way and your belt is then loose. So, if your seeing slack in the belt, then the problem might be that these are spring loaded and the spring is weakening and you will have to replace it. Now, compared to what you have just done, this is a piece of cake bro and I am absolutely confident with just the brief explanation above that you can figure it out. Just look down about half way or so on you serpentine belt route and there's that pulley, actually it will have a nut dead center and if you put even a wrench or ratchet on it, you can move it, the tool I'm talking about really isn't mandatory, it just has a longer handle about two feet long or so and a few assorted different size sockets or open ends for different makes, that's it. Try a long handled wrench or ratchet with a piece of pipe or something to help in the easy of holding it out of the way while putting the belt back on. I'll help you of course if you have any problems, put if you have a sloppy belt, then that spring is wearing out. Thank you Jecra, you really made my day and nothing makes me feel better than to have a success like this as it wasn't an easy fix for you and speaks volumes about your capabilities. Congratulations and you should be very proud in the work you did, oh one last thing bro, those knuckles, if you haven't heard of these they are called band aids, and if you need some help figuring out how to use them, screw you, suffer brother,.... LOL Heck man, when all goes good like this and your cruising around, those knuckles don't hurt a bit and you can show your girl you new manly hands....LOL
lol. you rock. i smile when i look at the scars...chicks love scars lol. but i looked under there and found out where everything goes but i cant find the bolt that lets me move it. i loosened the bolt thats in umm the cut out where its like a half circle where it pivots but i cant find the other bolt that allows me move it.
Well, I might be wrong, but I don't think so, I have to take off right now, so if your running hold off and I'll do some looking and check it out for you and send some pics if possible. So just hold on, ok
Ok OK , I looked really quick as I need to get to my Mom's as she need my help she's 83 and I am kinda wrong, it is different than what I thought so hold on and I will get back later and look further. I see the nuts your taking about bro, but hold the thought and we'll get it right. Promise Item: 140262 OEM: GAT T43132 Brand: Gates List: $ 241.23, Save: 65% Price: $ 84.25 High quality, high strength bearings run cooler and outlast original bearings. Meets or exceeds OEM specifications. Parts are sold separately for those who prefer to replace individual parts. Reinforced polymer pulleys built to resist under-hood contaminants. I don't know what's wrong with this site, but there is no way to post a picture, but I see what you mean and this is for the 2.0
Hey pal, I don't have a bunch of time but I went scouting around for you and found this site and it has a vid that will give you sort of an idea. Now I can't swear that yours tension pulley is as explained here but should be based on the same principal. Most cars these days are all based on the same principal. So go take a look and if you need more help just hollar, I have a meeting at our cities auto museum this afternoon as I have been asked to be an assistant to the curator and will be responsible for the care of the collection and to also set up displays, wow, I am so happy, it's like crooking and going to heaven, car heaven..LOL....................This is the site...Bye the way you may have noticed that the post picture button is missing and Dave I got your emails and your question about this button, I have had a conversation with Henry and something funny is going on and I don't buy his response to me.... I will get hold of you later bro... this is the site Jecra..........http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-serpentine-belt-tensioner-works
thank you very much for this. i will have to take a look at this site later on. thank you very much. and CONGRADULATIONS!! on becoming the assistant. mmmmm cars. if you see an old lincoln continential with the suicide doors kiss it for me. lol
OK will do and I know for a fact there are actually in the neighborhood of 14 various years, do you want me to kiss a perty one or a rusty crusty unrestored old lady? Might get rust poisoning ... LOL Take care and thanks pal, bye the way the serpentine best route I think is also at that site and or in the ball park, can't remember have a lot on my mind right now.. gotta run bye.
look for a little black button should be somewhere around your steering column mine was on the dash side of the radio pushed it in car started right away
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