Driver's wheel gets hot!
Bought a 2000 Nissan Quest with 87,000 miles on it a week ago. I knew the pads needed to be changed so I had that done a few days later. That is when the problem began. The following night after the pads were changed, the van felt harder to accelerate. There was a lag. I thought I smelt plastic burning but just made my way home. The next morning, I drove 10 miles and parked, there was smoke coming from the tire well and lo and behold the center cap melted off :( Stuck caliper right? Changed and the wheel still got hot after a few miles. No other wheels were this hot. Changed the brake line, same hot wheel. Tested the wheel bearings by moving tire and that was fine. The wheel is still hot! What could it be?
i think your not adjusting the brake pad or clipers correctly ! beacasue if u8 dont the pad start to stick to the brake disc and jam the wheels untill the disc becomes hot and it starts to slip but still produce load by which the tyres will not move in a flow !
Something isnt allowing the pressure to bleed off after the brakes are applied on that wheel. Any rubber hoses are my first suspect. I would have your brake lines flushed going from the caliper to the master cylinder, because that direction something is sticking.
I had (what sounds like) a similar problem w/ my '01 Frontier. A while back the inside fender insert (separates engine bay from wheelwell; rubber piece tacked in w/ plastic pins which have seen 10+ years of water, mud, dirt, gravel, etc) ripped off (this was on the right front wheel). For a while after that, the truck wanted to drift right while driving and coasting (sometimes wanted to pull left under braking). I figured part of that inner fender got wedged in the brake rotor/caliper and was slowing that wheel down (I also smelled something burning, either brake fluid, or the piece of rubber). The truck hasn't done that in a long while so I figured it finally all burned off. Now I've said all that to agree w/ what has been said so far (check brake rotors and calipers for correct install/torque and check/bleed brake lines), but if you do think it's necessary to pull the caliper back off, I'd try to check and make sure something's not stuck in the rotor/caliper. Hope you get that solved.
Fixed! Lo and behold a savior said, "check the brake booste" Brake booster need to be adjusted. This was a very unique and frustrating situation. Many of scenarios were running through my fried brain and several people were scratching there heads when trying to diagnose the problem. I am a happy camper again in my soccer mom van. :)
hi my name is Nithin, recently i change 4 Tyres of my nissan tiida car, and i went for wheel alignment, before it was good, but because of I change the Tyres i thought to check the alignment, then after alignment my car is going right while driving. i don't know what happen to my car, please advice me what to do next.
Another cause for this problem could be a clogged Dampener. It's right on top of the Master cylinder, on the line going to the ABS module for the Front. Mine wasn't allowing fluid to go back through, causing the driver's side caliper to not release. My solution was to remove it and drill out the center since this isn't something you can buy on its own. I've heard that the pedal may buzz a little more when ABS activates, but I can deal with that on a 20+ year-old rust bucket
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