2002 Mazda AC Problem
2002 mazda protege ac problem When i turn the AC on while the fan is on level 1, you
feel it gettin cold so its workin as normal, but soon as we turn it up to 2,3 and some times
4 for more air, the light on the AC button goes off and suddenly its not getting cold
anymore until we put it back on level 1 again then you see the AC button light go back on
and can feel the air coming out of the vents getting cold again. I already changed the
control speed nob and it seemed that it was fix but two days later the problem continued
the connector looks in good conditions next I am thinking of replacing the motor blower
resistor to see what it does and the AC relay any help out there it would be greatly
appreciated and some luck. Thanks
Your blower motor uses a lot of power so by turning it up you restrict power from all other circuits your charging system. Is most likely not functioning at its full productivity so - possibly altanator or battery try and see if it blows colder at idle or at highway speeds
I had to change out the the speed selector switch and connector pigtail - they were fried to a crisp. The resistor block was ok but the Blower Motor draws so many Amps (especially on high) that it was overheating the new pigtail and switch! New switch, new pigtail and new blower motor fixed my '03 Protege.
Thanks so from what both of you are have said it seems the problem is That the the blower motor is requesting more amps (power) then what it's getting so there for causing problems. Thanks but if I fix my charging system so the motor gets its full amp that its requesting then it will melt my connection so now I am woundering if theirs a less powerful blower motor that will fit my protege. That's what I need to look at next thanks
Wait but I was just thinking that blower never stops blowing even on a higher level its the compressor that is not engaging on level 2,3 and some times 4 almost as if its not getting the message to stay on for level 2,3,4 instead it turns its self off. I have anther question does the compressor have only one level off or on and blower motor the only one that speeds off or the compressor also have different levels?
There's a module that controls the compressor and fresh/recirculate modes. I found that the switch shorts out and drives the module bonkers. I don't know if it's feeding voltage back through something it isn't supposed to but I had the same weird symptoms. The compressor runs or it does not. The only control other than the manual button are under and over pressure switches on the pressure lines. In short: the compressor either engages or it does not whenever the module commands it. A fried switch will back feed into the module and cause it to do unexpected things. Have you pulled the switch to inspect the connector on the back? A blower motor is a blower motor, they just collect dirt and the bushings wear out over time. If you think about it - this one has lasted many years before it gave you trouble. A new one will probably last the remaining life of the car.
@Danson27 Just a quick question.. have you checked the charge level on your AC (using manifold gauges). Sounds like your electricals are fine, basically your blower is working at all 4 speeds right? If its the stock one for your LX, then its okay. Here is what I think... >>> the AC system might be low on refrigerant, but not completely empty. Each auto AC system has a precise amount of refrigerant needed to keep it working at optimal performance. Sounds like at SPEED 1, AC is cool, but at SPEED 2, 3 and 4 your EVAPORATOR (inside the car by the blower) is giving out all the COOL EFFECT too quick and NOT enough refrigerant is making it from the low side into the COMPRESSOR. Your COMPRESSOR assumes the system is too low or empty and cycles off to keep from getting damaged. This is just my theory >> I had to deal in reverse with an over-charged AC on a 2003 ES. Letting out and getting the perfect amount of refrigerant did the trick, got AC back to snowballs. All the best!
@Danson27 You may also be experiencing a blockage or damaged Evaporator or a blockage on the high side between your condenser, accumulator/dryer and orifice tube. This will cause the refrigerant to make it slowly to the evaporator inside the car.
So I added more free on and my ac stopped cooling for good because I over charged it. So then I replaced my condenser because it looked rough by doing this I drain the free on I then charged it back and it worked find in all settings now I just did this yesterday so I have to wait and see if the problem is for good or not. Thanks every one for the support.
Good deal Danson27, glad you are cool again. Hope thats it for the A/C troubles. Cheers.
Hi I need some help in have a 1996 mazda lantis it have in ac it's full I check it with gauges but the pump don't cut in when I turn it on but if I run the pump direct it blows cold how can I get it working with out running it direct I check and change the presure switch on the dryer bottle ?
This is due to an issue in the fan detection circuit. You can find an analysis of the issue and a suggested fix here: http://nikosapi.org/w/index.php/Mazda_Protege_Fan_Detection_ Circuit_Analysis I have implemented this on several Protege's and Protege5's and it works.
Hi mate I'm a fridgy you have the same problem I just experiencedon't with the same car that someone asked me to fix A/C for them. The gas and ac is charged and all good but the control circuit has issues. On all cars the compressor won't engage unless the fan is switched on. So power normally feeds ac switch from fan on switch then to ac relay. It will never be an alternator issue as suggested fans draws very little. What I would like to know if you changed the fan resistor, and if so did it fix your problem. I am thinking of ordering one. Pretty sure that is the issue. But obviously if it didn't work for u it won't for mine either. My fan only runs on the first speed but the ac only cuts in on all other fan speeds. So cold ac with no air. Or fan on speed 1 with no ac.
OK here is my story...similar to others...the switch acted wonky for years, finally gave out. I opened up the panel and found what others have found; the connector to the switch was melted and corroded. 1) I started simple; ordered a new switch (~$10). No dice - just got hot. 2) I looked for another connector on line and could not find one. This is a good thing because, as you will read, it is likely the connector would've melted again. 3) I went to the dealer and they told me that the resistor was shot. They also told me that a new harness, which would include the connector, which cost $1500. 4) I bought a new resistor (~$20) and created my own connector (see picture) for pennies, using 5 Female Quick Slide Terminals. All is well now. My guess is that the corroded resistor generated the heat that melted the connector.
Looking for a Used Protege in your area?
CarGurus has 183 nationwide Protege listings and the tools to find you a great deal.
Search Mazda Protege Questions
Mazda Protege Experts
Related Models For Sale