My brake lights, 4 Way Flashers, Trunk Release and Gas Door Release don't work. The fuses are good, I checked them with a continuity tester. I pulled each fuse and checked the socket the fuse plugs into on the panel with a 12 volt test light that there is no power coming to any of these fuses. What is the best of troubleshooting this? Should I pull the fuse panel to check the connections? If so, how do I release the panel? Thanks for any info!
From what I read you have checked all the mini fuses. People don't realize that there are maxi fuses which are superior to the mini fuses which could also blow out. This may be your problem. IF this also is not, check to see if any relay is bad. Pull a similar good relay that you know works for another system and plug it into that port. If it works then you know the other one is bad. If there is no change then plug first relay into the second relay's port to see if the other systems work again. So now both relays are checked. Other than that tracing a wire in a vehicle is NOT an easy thing because the factories mass wire them with some used in this model but not that model and vice versa. So what I do is simply create a new power feed to the circuit if all else of searching fails.
There is a factory recall involving brake lights I think. If it is the recall issue it will be replaced by a dealer at no charge. You may want to check on that.
I took a test light and found there was no power going to the fuse under the dashboard that controls all those items. From the schematic I saw the 30 Amp Power Fuse 2 under the hood was supposed to feed that circuit. I pulled the 30 Amp fuse, saw that one of the legs was slightly bent with bad arc burns on it, but tested as good with a continuity tester. I was cleaned up the arc burns from the bent leg on the fuse and replaced it back into the fuse holder. It still didn't work. Then it dawned on me that even though this fuse wasn't blown, perhaps the physical damage on one of the legs was a symptom of the cause of the problem, so I replaced it with a new 30 Amp fuse and voila, problem solved. The old main fuse was just making a bad connection!.
Hi, when you had this problem, did you also loose power to park lamps, inside lights, instrument cluster, radio, clock?
No, but all of those share a common joint connector.
Found the trouble, bad wire between under hood fuse panel to under dash fuse panel,The 60 amp power wire, 60 amp fuse is OK, fuse holder is OK, With test light it seemed like wire was OK, but when the wire was attached to fuse panel, it lost power, so I ran a wire from the battery, spliced it to suspected wire, and everything worked normal, Its just a temp fix, when the weather warms up, I will try to find the bad wire.
I have a 2011 Kia Optima that has been towed or jumped 13 times. I am on my 4th battery. The new battery is 1 month old and is dead again. The service people continue to tell me I am leaving the lights on but my car has the technology to turn off the lights when you lock the car. I am out of my mind with this car.
Kaiba27 The service people you are dealing with are idiots. First off they don't even know the lights go off once the car is off and locked. I won't go into all rhe other reasons they are idiots, just know they are. If you have another Kia dealership near you I would go there As for your problem, I'm having the same issue. Afrer so e research this is what I found could be the cause, hopefully for you as well: • Main Fuse (150 amp I believe). Located on positive battery terminal. Also called fuse block. • there is a sensor located on the negative battery terminal. • Alternator. • wiring harness that goes from battery to alternator. • steering column, steering column harness, etc. These cars have a huge issue with the steering column. You will hear your steering wheel make a clicking or knocking sound and will have a little play in it. • stop lamp switch (recall) • starter? I hope this list helps you. If you have added aftermarket hid lights or and amp for the stereo and have it hooked up to the battery then it will definitely be the main fuse on the positive battery terminal, or the sensor on the negative battery terminal. You need to hook up the lights, amp, or whatever you have added to the fuse box right next to the battery, or this will keep happening. Good luck!
I am having a similar issue as well. My trunk, interior lights, power window/locks don't work as well as the Shift Changer stays in the "P" position and will only move if I press the "Shift Lock" button. My battery died and after they jumped it I started having all those issues.
Under the hood, in the main fuse panel, look for Power Fuse 2, Check both sides of it with a volt meter for 12 volts.
I just checked the engine compartment fuses but can't find the Power Fuse 2. Would it be labeled under something else?
Did you know that Kia offers free replacement batteries and tires ? But not all dealers will give them to you.
If you look under the fuse cover, down at the bottom there's a list of what the fuses are. In the 2nd column from the right, there's a Power 2 (30A). At the top of the last column on the right, there's a Power 1 (30A). These are the fuses that supply the power to the fuse box inside the car by the hood release lever. Check to see if you have voltage on both side of fuse, then pull the fuse and see if there is anything unusual about it, arc burns etc. My problems are in the Power 1 (30A) circuit. When I originally trouble shot the problem, the fuse had arc burns on one of the legs. I replaced the fuse, and everything worked. Since then, I've had to replace it when Power 1 (30A) blew. After replacing it again, I have experienced any problems since but I must have an intermittent somewhere in the circuit. Good luck!
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