2005 Hyundai Accent has trouble starting after the engine is warmed up

30

Asked by Apr 03, 2014 at 12:50 AM about the 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS Hatchback

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Just like the title says if I drive the car 10-15 minutes or more than attempt to restart
while the engine is still warm/hot it has trouble turning over. It will usually crank a little
bit then just stop and not turn over. After letting the engine cool for 30 minutes to an
hour the car starts 100% fine with no hesitation. Car has 108k miles, a new battery and
the check engine light has not come on.

Thank you in advance for any help

24 Answers

32,035

Try letting the engine idle for a minute or two before you shut it off. It's possible that the battery is weak and needs to charge up a little. It's worth a shot.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
35,125

Replace the Ambient Air Temp Sensor. Try Rockauto or ebay for a replacement. Should run under $50.

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
30

Would a new battery still be having that issue? I got the factory recommended battery when I replaced it around 6 months ago. Reelin thank you for the Ambient Air Temp Sensor recommendation, that was something I had not though of.

30

I read about a similar problem on another forum. They recommended checking the alternator under full load as well as checking the ground wire both where it connects to the battery and the transmission. Going to try getting both checked for free at Autozone today.

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
35,125

If the battery was the issue, it would still start the same after letting it sit a while. Sounds more like you are having a starter issue. I just skimmed your headline before and missed the "will crank a little and then nothing" part. If you have a 6 month old battery and are having a starting problem, I would suggest a new starter. Sounds like when it's hot it's intermittent, but when cool, it starts no problem.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
30

Going to order the starter tonight I think. As I don't have Jacks or a ramp I have been unable to check the battery wire connections at the starter itself. Could it be as simple as them being corroded and not making a good connection on that end? Trying to put the car up for sale so again I'd like to fix for as little as possible

35,125

That is a possibility, but I have never seen the starter wires so corroded at the starter that it wouldn't turn over. I live in Vt. which is the salt capital of the universe. But anything is possible......

32,035

A hot engine is harder to turn over on the starter and battery then a cold engine.

35,125

Really? Ever tried to star a car at -30F? Then start the car at +35F. Which one starts easier?

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
32,035

Where the hell do you live? That's extreme. A hot engine has had all of its internal parts expand. This causes them to expand. These more friction.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
35,125

I live in Vermont. I will tell you for free that a warm car will start way faster than a cold car. I have auto start. If it's below zero the car will not fire. If it's above zero, say 30 degrees, the car will start no problem. But, if I go out to the car and start it with the key, it will fire right up because I can crank the engine forever. Temperature makes a difference no doubt.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
32,035

You must live up near St. J. I lived over in Bethlehem N.H. way back when. I retired to the Philippines to get away from all of that. Anyway try using synthetic oil. (You can try the Walnut brand if you want to save some money.) That is what I used in my Mercedes ML320. The engine turned over a lot easier when its that cold.

35,125

I will give it a try. Thanks for the tip!

20

I am having the same problem with my 2004 Hyundai Accent. Have you solved the problem.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

I'm having the same exact problem with my hundai.its a 05 has anyone got any good results. I've tried 3 mechanics and they can't find the issue cause the car doesn't give code and no check engine light.

35,125

Erickhundai05, what have these mechanics replaced so far? Have they replaced your starter?

No not yet but they have taken it apart and looked for codes and . One of them changed the spark plugs and said that was the problem but it didn't fix the problem. One mechanic just gave up and said he wasn't even gonna charge me the fee for checking it.

Reelin68 have you encountered this before?

35,125

I have had an intermittent starter before. I have also had a bad distributor also. I actually have a 95 camry that I had to hot wire with a push button because of the same issue. It would start one minute, and not the next. I also had to hot wire my 89 Toyota 4x4 also. There's a little black piece of plastic at the base of your distributor. That goes bad and the car won't start half of the time. I can't remember what it's called to save my life, but that was causing my issues. Instead of replacing my distributor, I just hot wired my ignition straight to the battery. Not saying that this is the problem 100%, but it was the issue that I had. It was doing the same thing. Running for a while, then when I shut it down, it would not start again until I let it sit for awhile. Here's a quick summary of what I am talking about: The pickup coil inside the distributor can fail and cause a no-start condition. There have also been some failures of the radio noise suppressors inside the distributor which can short out. It is recommended to replace the whole distributor with a complete genuine Toyota distributor if any of its components fail. This is from a Toyota blog, but your car may be having the same issue. A new distributor for your car will run you about $130 on Ebay. There are Youtube videos that show you how to install a new distributor. Not too hard. Good luck!

I am having a problem with hot starts also. I know for a fact that it is an ignition problem. Just now started investigating it. You may want to do so also. When I try to start my 2004 Accent when the engine is FULLY warmed up, only a minute or two after shutting it off, one of the coils fires too early, while a piston is still on the compression stroke. It actually tries to blast the piston back down the cylinder, attempting to spin the crankshaft backwards, and thus spin the starter backwards also. After that happened a bunch of times, it finally burned out the starter motor. Got a brand new starter. Ignition issue won't produce or store a code, so I may have to replace every stinking ignition component in the car!! Just to be sure I've actually fixed it. It is, after all, very intermittent.

I have a 2005 accent and am experiencing the same problem. My mechanic replaced the starter, I replace the battery, I have checked out the alternator, cleaned the battery posts new spark plugs and wires. no engine lights. I have been trying to resolve the issue for 9 mos. An additional note the car has less issues as the winter gets colder I live near Chicago. If anyone has resolved the issue i would like to know. To my knowledge this is electronic egnition and no distributor cap.

IAC... if hard starting when cold, LIGHTLY press the gas pedal (accelerator) then turn the key. If the car fires right up when hot with the gas pedal pushed, your IAC is MOST LIKELY the culprit. I am having a similar issue on my '98 Accent and am waiting for the ($200) part to come in today.

Back in October 2015, my starter motor burned out, due to the persistent ignition problem. So now have a reman starter that is better than the original was, new plugs, wires, coil pack, cam position sensor, and crank position sensor. Car starts very reliably now. New problem, vacuum leak where intake manifold interfaces the head, at cylinder #1. These 1.6L engines are noted for intake manifold leaks. I smeared some very good quality High Temp Silicone RTV all around the mating surfaces (didn't want to remove the manifold and replace the gasket). It worked. No more leak. The symptoms of the vacuum leak were VERY BAD MISSING after a hot restart, and CEL. Usually ran fine from a cold start to fully warmed up. But after engine was shut off when fully warmed up, everything must have warped worse while sitting hot not running. Then upon restart, it was sucking LOTS of air, until everything stabilized, and leak subsided. Another symptom was that the idle speed would drift a little. Idle speed was always a rock solid 750rpm. But during the months the leak was occurring undiagnosed, it would drift very gradually from 750 to 1000, and anywhere in between, barely noticeable. Just in case this might help others with an illusive problem.

I had the exact same problem & replacing the Throttle Position Sensor fixed it. Replacement of the Throttle Position Sensor may be another possible solution.

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