When I accelerate my engine struggles to get up to speed or slows down near idle when im trying to go but its not the transmission so what should I consider now to resolve my issue?


Asked by Jun 13, 2013 at 11:56 AM about the 2002 Ford Windstar SEL

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

11 Answers

sounds like the EGR valve is stuck open...instructions to open and verifying that it is open should be reported back to your ECU...causing a check engine light? you don't have no check engine light?...get your diagnostic codes read anyways will reveal what's at fault here...you can go see manny, moe or jack to get them read for free or you can get your own OBD-II scanner~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

No check engine light at all and my friend doesnt know what to do. But the ABS or brake light is on a mechanic said the brakes were fine though.. what would cause that light to be on?? No other lights are on Not the check engine light as you expect.. Last night not only it struggled to actually go anywhere when she was driving it loss of engine power At the parking lot we started it and it had a hard time idling it was close to dying off... and the dashboard lights were flickering too it was scary we had a 3 hour drive.. the oil change was 2 monthes ago i did that myself using synthetic oil or something because i heard its better than the conventional motor oil

7 out of 7 people think this is helpful.

I dont have an ECU unit though I outta get one in a few weeks when i get paid

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

It was a faulty fuel flow sensor thing nothing more than needing to be cleaned and the issue with the idling was fixed thanks for the help Shes happy now so i assume its good One more question... Is it possible that the ABS light is faulty? The brakes work just fine she had it looked by a mechanic..but the light remains stubbornly on

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

you may be able to reset it with the "on" position and function buttons, but probably should examine the actual ABS sensors for workin' the way they are supposed to...a 500mv signal or whatever the book says it's supposed to be~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

there is always the disconnect the black cable...pump the brakes five times to drain any parasitic currents switch the a/c off and on then reconnect~....will reset any persistent codes stored...now if the trouble code comes up again is some concern that need be addressed~

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

Alright I will try that when i come to see her Thanks for your advice

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

My ex took it to the shop, its fixed it was a bad sensor so the brakes were fine after all ~sigh of relief

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Yay...I wan't totally wrong (or at least wan't proven wrong) there isn't a "mark hurtful" button...thanks for that~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Hey man you did help me with the EGR valve and the other problem " You do have my gratitude for the advice I never would have thought an EGR valve could partly cause that I began off the wrong idea by cleaning the Fuel Flow Sensor to be honest I also mentioned the brakes have been inspected and nothing wrong with any part of the brakes either so that light i was stomped on and i have knowledge of cars myself haha I simply needed to know what to do next

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

My EGR valve is loose and rattles freely upon removal. Not plugged up. The older cars as long as it jingled around, it was all right. SO could it be that even in the event that it not stuck but only partially dirty?

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