Why does my Dakota "kick" really hard into reverse when idling high?
1992 Dodge Dakota idles high (2.2-3K rpm) for about five minutes until it warms up. If I
don't let it sit for five minutes, when changing my automatic transmission into reverse,
the truck kicks incredibly hard as the gear is engaged. If I let it run in park until the idle
stabilizes around 750 rpm, it is as smooth as it can be. I have been suggested that it's
the TPS... but I haven't found anyone with the same symptoms listed quite yet. Any
other ideas or suggestions? Or good reasons why it may be the TPS?
Better get it checked out, if you continue to put it in gear at those engine speeds you will damage your transmission and other drivetrain components ie u-joints, driveline, rear end gears etc.
....because the RPM's are high when it's warming up....to engage reverse while the engine is still warming up takes all the inertial energy from the high RPM and in effect issues the "neutral drop" on you...punch the accelerator to kick it down once you think that it has had enough time to warm up~....then engage reverse....you KNOW that it's rpm's are high...yet you engage reverse~ stop doin' that...wait for it to warm a couple of minutes~
$24.95 for this one~ http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ThrottlePositionSensor/Dodge/Dakota/1ATPS000 17/683642-1992? utm_campaign=gb_csv_br&utm_content=TPS&gclid=COv3gOShp7sCFbBF Mgod-0gA0A
it shouldn't be revving that high when warming up. replace the TPS.
tps= throttle position switch, how about ets engine temp. sensor easily confused to remember, and unless its super cold will it raise the idle that high even then that's high but it dos come down so maybe play in the rear end and universals give it a running windup to slam stop
Did you pull the codes?
There is an idle control valve or it could be a vacuum leak
Replaced the PCV valve, and purchased a TPS to replace the old one. However, the star drive bolt holding in the TPS is stuck to the point of stripping out my star drive. Will Kroil it tonight and attempt again tomorrow.
Replaced the TPS. Helped lower the idle... to 1900. Still takes forever to "warm up" to the point of dropping the idle under 1000. New battery too, started having ignition problems, had them test the alternator, was told I had a bad battery. The codes won't register until the check engine light comes on, so I was told. Replacing the battery wiped any stored codes any way.
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