help with neon only hitting on 2 cylinders
ok I just bought this neon they said a mechanic put a new timing belt on it it is only running
on cylinders 2&3 if you pull the plug wires off of 1&4 it doesn't change the way it runs at all it
is getting fire to 1&4 plugs already checked that and is running very rough but after you get
it out on the road and it goes into 2 nd gear it smooths out and then back to rough in 4th
check the timing i guess it skip
i have a 2004 dodge neon sxt 2.0 . replaced the camshaft posistion sensor and the o/2 sensor..no change. i then changed the spark plugs and wires.. a little better.. then i put a can of pressurized air conditioning compressor oil in the a/c system and no more jerking or running rough.. i hope this helps you or others searching for a fix brizz
sounds like either bent valves or burnt valves, injectors on cylinders 1 and 4 move to 2 and 3 see if the oposing cylinders change. Or the coil pack has a crack 1 and 4 run off the same pack and 2 and 3 run off the same pack it is a strong posibility its a coil pack issue.
this sounds every much like a coil pack issue that i once had. get some in line spark tester and check it that way. try asking someone on http://forums.neons.org/ they might have a better idea
why ask someone on neons.org when i am a certified chrysler tech and own 4 neons?
ok, 2004 sxt. 135,000 miles on it. i have replaced every sensor, all ignition components, fuel injectors, motor mounts(all 4), timing belt water pump and tensioner, fuel pump filter and pressure regulator, catalytic converter, o2 sensors, idle air control valve, air filter, intake gaskets. still have rough idle... still throwing p300 and 303. yes i changed the cam knock and crank sensors, rewired the battery to the starter and the ground to the transmission replaced clutch and speed sensor. you name it i have done it.... any suggestions?
I think the better question would be "Why did the mechanic put on a new timing belt? Was it due to be changed, or was it overdue and it broke?"
Matt... I changed it out at 80000 miles because i was doing motor mount... It did not break... But good question. Y did the dude that started this string have it changed...
If the belt was changed because it broke, it's probably why the engine isn't running right.
CHECK YOUR VALVES...PROBABLY A BURNED VALVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
if if was a burnt valve wouldnt it show up on a compression test? i mean why pull the head off if you dont have to? i just put a head on one we shipped out to the machine shop. rebult the whole motor.but the car seems to have a miss fire and a rough idle. but drives like a bat out of hell and doesnt break up when under a load. if i unplug the injector wire at idel no change, i can unplug both cylinder 1&2 injectors and see no change.... compession is fine, is getting spark, the injecotrs sray out fuel, the computer is sending signal, verified by noid light. so i have fire fuel and spark.... but still have a rough idle... replaced the pcm, the plugs, wires, injectors, comprsion test was good 175 all the way across its a rebuilt head with brand new valves and a brand new cam. new rings on the pistons etc.. all freshly rebuilt... what say you now? 00 neon 2.0 stock with a k7n airfilter manual trans....
This always baffles me on forum comments most of you don't know crap and the other half is chasing parts to fix a undiagnosed problem,ok here's my 37 years of knowledge,first determine if the timing broke and then replaced or maintenance replaced ok if broken than the mechanic did,nt bother to do a compression check I,m doing a 03 Neon 2.0 right now symptoms are running rough And fluctuating to good idle so intermittent idle with check engine light,first cleared the light and waited for it to come back on same codes appeared Multiple misfire cylinder 4 misfire First diagnose coilpack output or for you master mechanics take off the less of your spark plug and lay it next to a bracket or something metal or stick a small screwdriver into the lead and watch for spark or if you want to get real genius take out your spark plug with the wire connected check for spark ok is it working go on to step 2 check fuel again geniuses without tools take off plugs be careful they are brittle of your fuel injector run the car if it runs that is and listen for RPM change no change in idle well self explanatory If either of those tests checkout than we're getting into a more serious problem you will now have to get some tools Step 3 compression test mine was Cylinder 1 141 #2 140 #3 87 #4 70 Whoops there's the problem 2 Cylinder are average 3 and 4 are bad ok you no longer have to spend money on useless crap Now check your timing belt and see if your marks a Line up this should tell you the problem yes your tools are now required to check for these marks however if for some reason your marks line up then during your puzzling moment of disparity your conclusion should be that you either have a burnt valve or a bent valve or believe it or not a massive amount of carbon around the stem and seat area of your valve and isn't closing far enough to get complete compression you guessed it Head removal and off to the machine shop you probably need a new head gasket anyways Moral of the story is proper diagnosis,keeps you from guessing and asking a lot of gee could that be it questions as you get a lot of useless answers
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