How much is a 66' GTO with a 1975 400 4-speed v8 worth? I'm told the numbers are matching, it's a 242 but what's throwing me off is is this the original motor? Help please! :/
man, you're talkin' about a chunk of change-you don't mention the condition, 3? 2? is it a ONE!!?? For that kinda money, ya better learn how to read the codes
jamn is right, what is the condition? The '66 GTO came with a 389 V8 motor. If there is another drivetrain in the car, it's worth is harder to pinpoint.
When buying an old collector car, condition is everything- first NO RUST- next, how ORIGINAL is the car? This is where the "matching numbers" comes in- I think a car is more valuable if it has the same accessories it rolled off the assembly line with- and between 2 cars of similar appearance, one original in every way, and one fully restored, I would pick the original car with original paint and interior- even if it has a few scratches- I think these kinda cars (grandma cars with low mileage) are rarer than the restored cars- and you know what you are getting! Nothing covered up- the car just as it arrives in time 30-40-50 years later- and I think the market is beginning to agree with me- buyers at auctions are getting more and more excited every year by the "barn find" or "garage find" cars- with worn paint and dirty interiors- and I think we have seen the prices going up on these kind of cars- so, without seeing this GTO, I would encourage you to consider all this when trying to value a car- but don't forget the important question: "Does this car turn me on?!"
It's black on black, all original and numbers matching. Just doesn't have the 389 v8, it has the 400. Over all, I'd give it a 7/10. Only rust spot is in the corner side of the driver door which is no bigger than my hand
Ok- clear up my confusion- you say your '66 is "numbers matching" meaning it has the original engine it rolled off the assembly line with- but Pontiac didn't offer the bored out 389 (400) until the '67 model year- so if your '66 has a 400ci it is not "numbers matching"- without the original engine, the price drops precipitiously- and you say the car is "original" but already we see it is not- why do you call it original, does it have the original paint? What kind of condition is the paint and body in? Original interior? What is the condition of the interior? Dirt? Tears? Fading? Missing parts? You give it a 7 out of 10 which I'm equating to a condition 3 car. What is it worth? It is not worth as much as a fully restored car in which enormous amounts of money have been poured into a restoration to make the car pretty and run good again. It's also not worth as much as a matching numbers original car that some old man only drove on Sundays and kept garaged as his baby. This "old man" car will rarely be found among the GTOs as they were bought by kids who wanted to go fast, make $20 off drag racing, and drove these goats until they were smoking piles of metal. I know. I was there. Little rust is good, but in condition 3, with non-matching drive train and unknown mechanics, I wouldn't consider a '66 GTO for more than $10K. and it would have to be a nice lookin' one for that!
The 1966 GTO came with a 389 which had two choices, a 4 bbl carb or Tri-power (3 dueces); the 400 was introduced in 67 with a 4 bbl carb only. With that said; a 66 GTO with a 400 is not a numbers matching car
Any classic car you are looking at to buy will have boat loads of variables. Compare your skill set to what your looking at; for example: if your not a good body man; buy a car that's straight with great paint and consider the other conditions i.e. interior, drive train etc. wiegh that to your ability. If you want a completed #2 car; expect to pay 30K to 45K for something worth owning. Every classic car you look at needs something done to it or will need something done to it; trust me!
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