Is the Instant Market Price what I should pay from a dealer? or is it the price it should show on the sticker and than negotiate lower?

Its just a guide as to what you should be paying... just like NADA or KBB... look at all as a reference point and then go in and see how close you can get to the numbers you saw... few things to keep in mind though... most of these numbers are based on history and tend to be about 3 months behind, so the numbers could be a bit off - and that could go either way... they could be figing you a number a little too high or a little too low - for examply, we're in convertible season, but back in February, the demand wouldn't have been as hot, so prices would show up low... Also, most of these systems do not take into consideration of the recertification... depending on the manufacturer you could be looking at anywhere between 1500 - 2k... but again, you can negotiate on even the re-cert... depend on how long the dealer has had the used inventory and on the lot... see if you can do some digging to find that out because if its been there a while, they have paid a lot of interest on it already, so the last thing they want to do is pay for shipping and auction fees, so they will be ready to bargain - I just did that myself where I got a 2009 5 series with less than 40k miles on it for under $20k... Good luck!