Toyota Camry 2007 Car Dies and Rear Defrost Light Blinks


Asked by Nov 10, 2013 at 11:56 PM about the 2007 Toyota Camry LE

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Hi I have a Toyota Camry 2007 137000 miles on it. My car dies when I drive on low
speed so I went to toyota and they said there was too much carbon in the fuel tank. I
taught the problem got fixed but it started again. so whenever I am driving on low speed
or waiting on a signal light the car just turns off randomly. Also, when I start my car the
Rear Defrost light blinks for few seconds and goes off. Not sure of both of them are
related. Thanks for your help in advance.

9 Answers

yes....this seems like a grounding problem...first thing I'd do is wirebrush the main ground connection...yes I know you've got to take the battery out to get to it on a Camry, but do this for renewed performance of electrical components...for example do you know that when you pull high amperage through a bolted connection of dis-similar materials there will be WELDING and blue flame and debris from this transfer of power (many amps) through a spot about the size of a if you can get in there (I know the battery will need to be taken out on a Camry) wirebrush that connection and the auxiliary devices will be restored with full 12 volts and needed amperages~NEW battery would help if it's over five years old~


I have never heard of carbon in the fuel tank. Did they clean the throttle body? Your ISC operating correctly? Are there any codes in the computer system? Have you checked the rear window switch and grounds.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

me neither...only source might be a disintegrated carbon resistor....but where?,,,,and which component still uses carbon resistors would be nearby....I do believe that someone dumped something in the gas tank....ex-lover perhaps...stupid little kid perhaps.....the Azburger nephew who really has the keys to makin' you lose your temper?....disintegration of the fuel cap seal?~

tennisshoes....dude, you're confusin' me now Idle Speed Control that little goodie is different than Idle Air Control? how?...voltage motor operation?

I believe our host has a staggering lack of imagination regardez~"ABCD123456789".....okay feels like we're on sesame street with this might have chosen a 10-20 like with special characters in it like pipe symbol pipe symbol bracket curly bracket thus~ |||[[{{ that would be a little more interesting...don't you think Play-Doh~?


Clean the throttle body intake. Get an old toothbrush and throttle body cleaner. Take off the ducting to the intake. Turn the car to on, "its before you turning the key to start" have someone or something put the pedal to the floor. They throttle valve will open all the way. Spray some cleaner and brush it. Get all the black crap off it. Wipe it clean. Put everything back together. The carbon and dirt built up around the valve area. So when at idle the valve is barely open. With the build up dirt it closes the valve and your engine shuts off.


I am have toyota camry 2009 se American Specification car. I change my battery but electrician didnt not shutdown my car and replace the battery but during replacement he mistakenly drop a terminal having red rubber cap on it which touch the engine somewhere and my car shutdown completely. After he changed my battery my car goes back to the reset position but later the speedometer needles try to go in reverse direction every time i start after a long time. There is one more thing which i recently experienced that while driving car in slow speed my car suddenly died. I try to start it but for 5 seconds approximately i didn't start but after very seconds it starts but my rear defrost yellow or orange or orange light blinked for 5 seconds and during these 5 seconds air condition panel seems to be halt or not working. After when light stopped blinking , things get back to the normal condition. since i change my battery my car dont start in normal way, it start like battery is very weak and it start after 1 or 2 send by keep trying starting. i asked a electrician, as per him i should re install car ECU program online, it might possible some files got corrupted but my mind is not accepting this. Another electrician said that my ECU is burnt, but if i believe on whats he saying than how can my car function normally usually. as since 4 days there was nothing like this but again it start behaving like this as explained earlier. Can any one guide me whats the problem.


Any good tech knows to never disconnect the battery with the car running, this can cause a voltage surge that can seriously damage the electronics of today's vehicles, in some cases it takes a few days of running for the onboard computers programming chips to breakdown and start doing crazy stuff with the control systems, eventually they will quit working properly. The only place to get this programming error fixed is the dealer, but if the damage is too deep then the computers will have to be replaced and reprogrammed to match the vehicles Vin. I had a customer that did this and he ruined every piece of electronic hardware that was turned on in his car, radio, computers, ignition module, electronic dash cluster, it cost over 2500 bucks to get it operational again. Sorry for the bad news.


Actually what fixed the issue is still unknown to me. After doing routine maintenance "changed the oil, air & cabin filters" the problem went away. Maybe system being a vacuum system wasn't getting enough pressure due to air restrictions. But I am still not sure what fixed it or of it fixed itself. It works now.

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