no drive power
I have a 1995 Chevy suburban we have replaced a fuel sensor, plugs wires distributer bug and now another sensor that sits on the moter it starts fine and idols good it will back up fine then when we put it into drive it cuts out and dies we are out of ideas please some one helps us
Roy it's a 95 it's OBD 1 who suddenly has you thinking California emissions equipped cars are the only ones with egr valves? ..http://www.cargurus.com/ Cars/Discussion-t14325_ds534062 copy and paste this into your address bar. This is an issue I helped a guy out with last November very similar issues to yours. When you copy and paste check to make sure no spaces got added.
the OBD 1 came up good we are now truing to find some picture walk threu on the throttle body one of the injectors are not spraying right
we have just been told that it could be the torque converter is going out is there a way to fix this or is it better to sale it??????????
Fluid level won't kill the engine, engine will run without a trans even hooked up to it, locked up torque converter could do that does it feel like it goes into reverse really hard? Like it slams into reverse when you shift? Did you look at the link I put in my previous post?
Let's find out what the issue is before anything drastic is done..... did you go to the link I posted and read it?
--you got it John....defer to your expertise on these matters-~
i did read it your link john we know the fuel pump is fine we were told possibly torque converter because there is 270,000 miles on the motor.... ill ask my husband to test the psi on the gas
torque converter clutch may be sticking, it wont engage in reverse but can in drive. Get it rolling then put it in drive and see if you can get it going. The Torque converter clutch acts just like a clutch in a stick shift car.
I just fixed my 95 suburban that was doing the same thing, the dang hoes in the fuel tank that connects to the pump was loose, before I found that out I replaced a whole bunch of stuff that I did not have to like the EGR valve the MAP sensor some kind of vacuum solenoid replace the temperature sensor on top of the motor and rebuild the top of the throttle body, lot of money wasted but runs really good now except now I have a check engine light on and it does not shift properly when light is on but when the light turns off it shifts just fine
Just realized this post is a year old haha
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