Volvo s40 over 130k miles

Asked by T9x Jun 14, 2017 at 09:31 PM about the 2006 Volvo S40 2.4i

Question type: Shopping & Pricing

I'm currently looking for volvo s40's and I've found
one in my budget (a little under it) and want to
know if the car is worth purchasing with 147k
miles. They say they have kept up on brakes,
timing belt, and oil.I was looking at a Mazda Rx8
and was sold until I learned a but mire about the
rotary engine and anything 80k miles and up.  I
dont want get into the car and put 10k on it and
have it take a dump on me. If you guys could give
me a reasonable guess on how long it might last, it
would be much appreciated

4 Answers

6,320

It has everything to do with who-did-what up until it is at 147K. Look at carfax, see if regular maintenance was done. Personally I'd stay away from volvo's unless it has a rock solid history and is supremely clean... very expensive to replace parts. My opinion, not many people look for high-mileage volvos (as per the advice they gave you) so the odds of you reselling incase you find a failure and making up your money is slim. My point, get a thorough inspection.

6 people found this helpful.
124,305

I would avoid the Volvo S-40, they were somewhat troublesome. Also the RX-8 was a great handling car with a horrible engine that was very troublesome. The RX-8 got poor fuel mileage and burned oil. You need to look at Toyota, Honda and Ford for more reliable transportation.

1 people found this helpful.
60

I own a Volvo s40 2005. It was making a grinding noise when I was turning to the right. So I went to Good Year. They said it was the cv axle that’s damaged internally. So I paid like $330 for that. After replacing the CV Axle they called me and said the noise is not gone so they needed one more day to take a closer look at it. I greed. Then they kept my car for a day and called me said I have to replace CAT CONVERTER which they estimated will cost~ $1400. They also added more car parts on the list and made the total cost of 2,000.(not including tax). I couldn’t afford it so I took the car to a different repair shop. One of the mechanic in that shop found out that the WHEEL BEARING was not working properly. After that, I called good year said what he told me and and asked how how Good Year will cost to fix that. One of the guy from Good Year said will cost $500(without including tax). That’s double the amount than what other mechachanic told me. So I fixed the WHEEL BEARING for half the price and the grinding is gone.Their price is expensive as hell. And they(many of them were trying to find what the problem was ) didn’t know that the wheel bearing was making that noise. They Suck. I recommend you not to to to GOOD YEAR what so ever.

6 people found this helpful.
80

I own a 2011 Volvo S40. If you keep up on the maintenance they are excellent cars. On my year you need: -Regular Oil Changes - I do them myself for about $45 for full synthetic -Spark Plugs every 75K - I do them myself for $60 in parts. Very easy to do. -Timing belt every 120K - About $600-800 from a dealer -PCV Oil Trap every 150K - About $500-800 from a dealer -Water pump every 240K - Not sure, haven't made it that far yet, but labor isn't much because they do it at the 2nd timing belt service so most of your cost there is the part. -Brakes, I bought the car with 81K on it and got 70K out of the brakes that came on it. My buddy and I put new OEM pads AND rotors on ourselves for about $350-400 in parts. Make sure you buy the Volvo -specific rear caliper tool if you do that yourself though. I have owned the car for 100K miles now (It has 183K now, bought it at 81K in 2013 as a commercial vehicle that was traded) and the only issues I've had that aren't consumables like bulbs, battery, brakes etc... or maintenance items are: -I had wires that run between the trunk and the body inside a wire grommet separate causing the trunk latch to not operate and the light to fail. I repaired it myself with like 6 inches of auto wire some crimpers and butt connectors. -My A/C needs work. Pretty sure I'm going need to do a compressor in the near future. It runs for now, but makes funny noises when starting the car and occasionally farts (literally makes a psshh noise) freon but still gets cold for now. Probably the compressor clutch, but for the price you might as well do the whole compressor; no difference in labor and only like $150 difference in cost. I trust that car enough as is to get in it and drive across the country. No hesitation. They are incredibly reliable and very fun to own and drive provided they have proper maintenance and care. I would NOT but any model newer than a 2011 though. They were bought out by the Chinese at that time and their quality has crashed and burned since then. They are literally 3rd from the bottom now in Consumer Reports reliability survey. The older ones are great though. And if you are mechanically inclined they are fairly easy to work on and parts can be found reasonably cheap online. I recommend FCP Euro for parts. Literally everything they sell has a lifetime warranty. Even oil and other consumables. Hope this helps.

8 people found this helpful.

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