what causes the interior light to flash on & off?where are the relay switches located? my truck is a 1999

100

Asked by Deborah May 01, 2013 at 05:58 PM about the 1999 Mazda B-Series B2500 SE 4-Door Extended Cab RWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

23 Answers

there is a black box under the hood, think it's passenger side near the firewall...trying to find the BCM (body control module) or "interior lighting relay"~kinda squinky, will see what other info I can share~

8 people found this helpful.

1999 is before they started the 'body control module' whew, those things are impossible to do with anything but change out- I'm going to go ahead and tell you the black battery 1/0 cable connecting to the chassis is corroded and cannot pull reliable electricity through there, also the connection to motor block from chassis so that your startermotor can pull the needed 300 Cold Cranking Amps....also your battery should be newer then 7 years old for the electrical system to operate without your alternator running "balls to the wall" and threatening to burn up/fail~

2 people found this helpful.

bust out a wirebrush, garden hose and some tools, a pliers and a wrench and use the water to keep the acid/corrosion away from your skin- wirebrush the connections to enable the electrical system to operate properly with a fresh new battery and your troubles will all go away~

1 people found this helpful.
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Well,we have bigger problems.Tonight,the clicking was continous and when i turned on my marker lights,the speedomater needle(as i was going 35 mph) went down to 0 mph and back up,at which time the truck shifted roughly.is this some knd of relay switch or a fuse?the battery connections look good.when i open the door,the light inside is off,then comes on and off.is the some kind of "cluster relay"that controls all these things?sound coming from under the dash...not heard under the hood.thanks for your previous replys.sorry for all the questions...truck seems possessed to me!i refuse to drive it for fear of messing up the transmission .please reply again.my husband thanks you for your replys,too.

1 people found this helpful.

hmmm, have you got 12.5 volts at the battery....sounds like an undervoltage condition yet. would hazard to guess that you guys DID not get a new battery, 'cause wouldn't be reading less than 12 loaded volts~ clicking is from undervoltage~

1 people found this helpful.

Get a new battery, you cannot duck the tenancy to not accept a charge ten percent per year till after ten years is surviving on it's short hairs...small investment for reliable starting~

1 people found this helpful.
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hubby is going to do what you said about the cables first,if not replace them,then as soon as we have the funds,we will def. get a new battery.wil check date on the one we hav cuz if it is still warranted,i will take it back for replacement.thanks sooo much and will keep you posted on our progress!! things just may be looking up!scary when the odomator was looking like a wiper!

1 people found this helpful.

Don't replace, clean. save yourself the money for a really really good battery~ sad that they will degrade over time..my MINI battery still looks brand new, but is a 2006 and has to go due to slow crankin' side from that it's still good~

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just called for a price on battery and salesman talked about the clicking may be some issue with the blend door motor?? said not likely battery..ugh!!! said need to get electrical analysis checked...i don't get it!! said don't drop 108.00 for a battery without checking electrical first...i am hopeing and praying that it is just the cables and/or battery.we don't have funds to put on diagnostic machine...ready to jst cry!

1 people found this helpful.

why is that guy not wanting to sell you a battery? an old battery will warrant replacement~ your battery ain't gonna get any younger with time. Did he even look at the remove tabs indicating the date? You cannot argue with how old the thing is, not to mention the voltage has been proven insufficient. What is there to check? the date is on there. Blend door is only important in starting the vehicle in COLD climates...under cold starts. think that guy is tryin' to lead you down the garden path...don't cry about 108.00 (cheap actually for an interstate) as far as a diagnostic scan, should be FREE at your part supplier---report to us what the scanner says- don't be intimidated by these folks~ you're the owner. again don't cry. Diagnostic checks are free...yes free should not charge you a penny. Go to another store, one who won't affect you emotionally~ As I was saying (from my dad) who's been an Electrochemical Engineer for 35 years ['batteries will stop accepting a charge 10% per year] after ten years will survive only from what it has left...not to mention that when a battery isn't taking a charge the alternator will cook itself trying to push out enough amperage....look at the date of your battery....it's on the top with the stickers. If it is fewer than seven, stick a charger on it and look at the output voltage....should be 12.5 volts~ You know you could just buy your own OBD=II scanner for under fifteen bucks from amazon~....but for free from Kragen or O'reillys or Advance Auto....bastards should not charge ONE penny~~~repeat FREE....especially to a prospective customer~

1 people found this helpful.

I've always wanted one of these, but do not have a vehicle that's OBD- II....shucks, cheap enough...one of the guys had FREE shipping...for under 20...~

1 people found this helpful.
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this guy i talked to was on the phone so he ain't got a clue..my hubby will check battery date when he gets home...it is on the side of battery.also will clean up the cables,too.i do believe that the cause is this battery and i will shop around for a new one...won't buy from THAT guy!he apparently doesn't want to sell me one and is only there to punch a timeclock!can't take my truck anywhere to put a scan on it...not taking any chances with more damage bein done to it...don't feel safe driving it.i do value your expertise in this...sounds likeyou know alot.my son's mechanic said basically the same...like a negative ground

1 people found this helpful.

yah, that's what I've been sayin' all along. It's the darn tendency of acid to destroy anything that's within the cloud of acid fumes...these things are kinda terrible...going to rescind my assertion that you buy only the very best, but it's okay to go with something else, like from advance auto, napa or god forbid walmart, 'cause as a '99 vehicle within the salt belt hasn't got too many more years left on it anyways~ Wish we could just simply clean your old one but there is no ducking this business of time ruining the battery...surprisingly they don't make them from lead anymore...they use a tin/antimony alloy...this is something that only a person in the industry would be hip to~

You could look at the top of the battery yourself, there is no need to get your husband's eyes on that....it's obvious from their "omission dots" to conclude the age as it's been chimped out of there~

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hubby is the one who will handle getting dirty...lol...my truck,when it's running looks like a much younger one..taken care of,despite having 184,000 miles..will run her til she can't go no more...best truck in my eyes on this planet!!walmart is cheaper but not always better...will buy from elsewhere on this.

1 people found this helpful.

good work Deborah...up here in Clealake, Walmart is the only show in town, have driven all to closure, except with corporate sponsorship like Rite-Aid or Safeway....the little guy has been crushed and the empty storefronts are a testament to this non-nationalized policy of rather paying a Chinese child .15 cents a day with no union....so we can get it cheap, not realizing that our future is destroyed for dependance....was at the IGA and saw a 3-pak of Chinese garlic for a buck....not Gilroy garlic (local, less than 100 miles away)....yes expend our resources in fuel oil what it takes to bring a steamer from across the world so we can save a few cents on an inferior product....some people's kids, I tell ya~

You know Deb. the place from where you buy your battery will give you a "core charge" for your old one, will charge you more if you ain't got one at walmart....confess, cheapest show in town (albeit immoral practices, why can't they run the show like costco, happy employees...get a clue)~ sorry for railing about the state of industry in the US, watched my city of Milwaukee grind to a halt in 1988, detroit has blocks and blocks of uninhabited housing...why? see there I go, I'm ducking the housework...California is embroiled in a stationary High pressure, yet Wisconsin is getting the biggest dumper to season...huh, alls I gotta say as ha ha.~

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battery tested...full amps! brother-in-law changed the #26 fuse causeing the clicking,we believe and the light inside never flashed,the speedometer never moved up an down like before.have no choice but to drive it tomorrow so we shall see.hubby drove it around tonight with no problems..

1 people found this helpful.

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