I have a severe vibration when I apply the brakes. Has done this since it was pretty new. Get it fixed and returns quickly.

A pulsing effect would be your rotors. If you are having a vibration, I would look at your suspension/steering components. I had a bad tie rod end on my Explorer that caused extreme vibration when I moderately applied the brakes. I am as curious as Tom, do you know what was done previously to 'fix it'?

Sounds like you need to check front brakes, rear brakes will usually not vibrate as you claim. I would have rotors cut if possible and replace pads with ceramic pads preferably. While at it, make sure that they check for any other cause.

If it was the rotors, then the hub surfaces should have been cleaned before the new rotors were installed. Also the wheel lug nuts should be properly torqued. Uneven lug torque can warp a rotor.

Is the pulse from the steering wheel or pedal? Disc or drum in the rear.

This is a but of a shot in the dark but I've seen it before. Often aftermarket brake pads will not have the ventilation groove in them that the factory pads did. This groove exists to allow the pads to cool. If they do not the heat will transfer to the rotors causing them to warp. Also some of the Fords had screws to secure the rotors to the hub. I am not sure what year they started but you truck may have had them. These screws often break off leaving the remaining portion in the hub. If the new rotors are installed on top of these broken screws it will also cause the rotors to warp. Both of these ideas are a stretch but sounds like you're running out of the common fixes. Good luck!

most probably ur breaks were hot n u went to a car wash or in a puddle therefore the discs got fucked up u can jus take it to a mechanic and they'll straighten it up then it'll definitely be fixed

How many times have you "fixed" it? Since it began when new, did the dealership ever fix it? What did they do? How long does it last after being fixed before the problem resurfaces? On some ford F-150's, if the rotor is removed a new nut has to be used each time the rotor is replaced (at a cost of about 30 bucks). I do not know if your truck requires the same replacement. Also, the nut has to be torqued to a specific load (I believe 200 lbs) . Check a repair book. If the same nut is being used over and over on the rotor, that could be the problem.

I have had the same problem for about a year now, steering wheel shimmy when braking. I pulled the rotors and put them on a lathe to turn thinking this was the problem. I indicated the mounting surface to within 0.002", then checked the rotor braking surface, was within 0.004". All sides were indicated and got similar readings, so that's not the problem. I checked the bearing hub assemblies, no play whatsoever with the wheels mounted. I have a 2012 with Eco- boost and have no issues other than this. Don't want to part with the truck, but this is annoying.

JCMAC: Begin a new question, this one is three years old.

Brake lines underhood may have collapsed, check there

I have a 2000 f150 it is vibrating the whole front end when I apply hard pressure to them. Mine almost stopped doing it when I greased the steering components. I am pretty sure I need to replace steering linkage because boots are gone. But I replaced drums and rotors and pads with all new so I know for a fact that is not the case with mine.

Replace bushings. Damn ford. ...

I had an issue with vibration when braking from ~30 and up. Just replaced my rear rotors and pads today. Shake gone.

My front end shakes when apply. brakes I put new rottors and new caliper on passenger side could it de the pads need to be changed the pads on there are 2 months old but I used them with a warped rottor

My front end shakes when apply. brakes I put new rottors and new caliper on passenger side could it de the pads need to be changed the pads on there are 2 months old but I used them with a warped rottor

Control arm bushings lower, replaced no other problems.

My problem is intermittent. It only happens when start the vehicle and shift it IMMEDIATELY into reverse, back-up, and shift into drive, and then brake as I'm exiting my driveway (which is slightly downhill). If I turn-off the vehicle at the end of the driveway, restart it, and WAIT for the computer system to completely go through it cycling routine (which takes only a few seconds), the problem does not recur. I'm of the opinion that it's not my rotors, but the ABS system malfunctioning due to my failure to let the computer system to perform a complete cycle immediately after start-up.

The steering wheel shake or shimmy felt when applying the brakes (especially hard braking at high speeds) is caused by improper or complete lack of wheel lug nut torque and the sequence in which they are torqued. Both actions must be accomplished each time a wheel is installed or heat of friction will cause rotor warpage in short order. The fix is to have the rotors "turned" or replaced. I have never found it absolutely necessary to replace the pads in this repair procedure but usually do as their cost is negligible. I always use a torque wrench, never a torque stick. I have repeatedly had bad results using torque sticks. If a tire shop works on my vehicles, I immediately jack up each wheel, loosen nut with a flex handle and retorque each nut in the proper sequence and foot pound specs given in the vehicle instruction manual. This is because nearly every tire shop uses a torque stick...even when I have requested they not do so. Never use a lube on lug bolts or nuts. Clean only with wire brush or wheel. If the vehicle has six bolt wheels, the vehicle manufacturer will probably tell you to tighten bolts in a star pattern. If the torque specs for your wheels are 150 - foot pounds, adjust each nut to spec. (I always snug each nut with the flex handle in the proper sequence before using the torque wrench). I try to accomplish each torque procedure without the use of an extension. If you use an extension you will need to refer to torque wrench manual for torque adjustment factor and apply. I personally use a six point impact socket on all lug nuts because they don't slip or break. Using the above procedures have eliminated 100% of "brake-shake" problems on all of my own 1/2, 3/4 and 1-ton trucks (and cars) for 30+ years. And I have owned many of each. There are numerous on-line articles referring to this procedure I have described.

I have worked for Ford dealers parts and service for 25 years now and this post above is absolutely correct I own a 2000 f150 and had the same issue and using the steps above it will fix your problem. Yes steering linkage and control arm bushings wear and cause a similar issue but they are not the same fix. Also Ford released a better brake rotor in about 2002 and better brake pads to dissapate heat and prevent warping.

When I had this problem I replaced with MOOG -Rotors and Pads -Upper and Lower Arms -Coil Overs -Tie-Rods I still had this vibration issue so I replaced the front Rack and Pinion and problem was fixed it's happened twice I usually feel it in the front right wheel.