2002 Chevy Impala 3.8 overheating
I have a 2002 Chevy Impala 3.8
overheating when stops at the light.
I replaced the radiator May 2016,
and i just replaced the Fan last week.
After replacing the Fan I noticed one
Fan wasn't spinning and the car started
overheating,after reading some topics
online I traced the Ground wire connected
to the Fan cleaned it and now both fans
works. Now the overheat at the light and
I feel like the Fan Vibrates.
PS:1 code came up P0108 I replaced the
Map sensor yet still vibrate and overheat.
P.S: I've been riding all winter with the
DexCool GM approved.
Need Help here.
May need the thermostat replaced.
Yes you are right but what about the vibrations?
All you can do for the fans is to try and secure them better, but if the vibration is from the one fan you just purchased, it may be out of balance. So I would complain and try and get another one. If the vibration is cause by the air flow, then securing it better is all you can do.
Could be the intake manifold gaskets failing. These engines are notorious for that. Especially if you're between 90,000 and 120,000 miles. Do you have a "sweeping" temperature gauge? That is does it go up and down drastically? You may also have air trapped in the cooling system. Have you replaced the PCV valve that sits directly under the MAP sensor? It may be clogged. HTH. -Jim
Yes the Car is above 160000 miles,no digits on the meter it goes up to 3/4 and back to half never in the red. I don't think the Car has Air trapped in the Cooling system. But the problem is the intake manifold or the PCV valve,the Car would have gave me a code?
By 160,000 miles the intake manifold gaskets have probably already been done. The MAP sensor plugs directly into the top of the PCV valve housing. If the valve is badly clogged the MAP sensor may not be getting any vacuum. That could be why you got the code for the MAP sensor. You may want to inspect or replace the water pump. The impeller on the water pump of my 2000 Grand Prix GT (same engine) was badly rusted away. I'll try to post a picture of the old one. The water pump gave no symptoms of failure other than what you're describing. My Grand Prix was doing the same thing. Temperature gauge would climb to almost the 260°F (top) at idle. Then rapidly fall to below the 1/4 mark when I accelerated. Once cruising it would be normal again until I stopped for a traffic light. HTH. -Jim
I'll try to post a picture of the new one here for comparison. -Jim
If you can see the pictures (I've had trouble posting pictures) you'll see how the impeller was rusted away. HTH. -Jim
Thank you Jim,I will definitely check it out. Another Detail but it might be a different problem I've been driving with a bad A/C Fan switch for a year now. In order to get heat or A/C in the Car the Fan speed needs to be on 3, or 4 5 the 1 and 2 don't work. 3 weeks ago the Fan started making some loud Noises. Noise
You're welcome. Glad to help. The fan switch for the heat/air conditioning won't have anything to do with the radiator cooling fans. Selecting recirculate on the control panel should start the radiator cooling fans immediately. You can also, for testing purposes, unplug the coolant temperature sensor. Start the engine. The check engine light will come on, ignore it. With the sensor unplugged the radiator fans should both start immediately and run on high speed. HTH. -Jim
Ok just find out what the problem is? I checked the Radiator and he's clogged up with red dirt/powder thx GM the Damn Dexcool GM antifreeze. Don't ever use that stuff. Thank you Jim for all the help.
You're welcome. Glad to help. Thanks for letting us know what the problem was! Very glad you found it!! -Jim
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