1995 toyota Camry LE Idle and stalling problems
My car will run fine cold , but when warms up starts to stall as soon as the car idles at a stop light or sign
Got the problem fixed 700 dollars later
They changed the CPU and replaced the distributer
Couple months later the problem started up again, but not nearly as bad as before
Replaced the battery, but i am not sure what else the problem could be.
I have been reading up on other forums and found out it could be a EGR valve or my throttle sensor.
The help will be appreciated thank you
I have a 1994 camery with same problem. I replaced the throttle sensor but that didnt fix it, I think it seems to be a sensor telling the cpu to advance the spark when it shouldn't be. then it's screwed when it stalls for at least 1/2 hr.
Oxygen sensor, anyone?
I replaced the ECT sensor $16 and it did the trick.
temp sensor. never showed up when plugged to a computer?
I have a 1995 Camry w/ 4cyl. Last year it would run fine while cold. Once warmed up it would stall if you took your foot off the gas. Noticed that it was burning extra fuel and the tail pipe was black. After looking at several other things I decided to pull the engine coolant sensor. Sure enough, when I put an OHM meter on it the resistance was way off. Replaced w/ a $27 part from autozone and all is good. What was happening is that as the car warmed up the bad sensor was telling the cars computer that it was like below zero and was starving for fuel. So, it kept pumping in more which was flooding the motor. Good luck getting a mechanic to figure that out. I took the car to 3 different guys who wanted to do three different things with quotes up to maybe $2K to fix. Figured it out myself with a pad of paper, pencil and a six pack of Sam Adams.
I just got on here to say the same thing, ENGINE COOLANT SENSOR. We suffered with the same issues for a year or more, and it was an $18 part. Simple fix, you can do YOURSELF.
i have a 95 toyota camry 2.2L the engine stalls out cold or hot changed the IAC motor stil the same when it happens checked spark and it has spark when the stalling happens you hear and rush of air then it dies sometimes it will restart right away and sometimes it takes a minute checked fuel pressure and its good to any help would be appreciated thank you
My 1996 toyota cambry had the same issue. It would stall out at red lights, after driving for 20-30 minutes. Changing the ECT (engine coolant sensor) resolved the issue for me. When we removed the old part, it was actually broken, which confirm that it was the problem. Having this issue can be very stressful, but don't give up trying to figure out. Thanks everyone that shared, it was very helpful :)
I'm having that issue now with my 95 Camry 2.2L: when idle at traffic lights it shuts off, uses a TON of gas (once used half a tank in 2 trips 29.2 mi each way), black smoke coming out of the tail pipe, took the fuel line of the fuel filter & gas rushed out so we know gas is going through, replaced the distributor cap/spark plugs/spark plug wireset/fuel pressure regulator. None of this worked (but these things still needed to be replaced). So I went to anyone with a reader so they could see why my engine light was on & no one could help me because their reader worked on years 96+. So I went on Youtube to look up how I can do a manual diagnosis (found a very easy video). I learned there was a Diagnosis box in the top left corner of the car. I used an unfolded paper clip to connect TE1 & E1. Went inside my car to count the sequence of the blinking engine light. I ended up getting 5 different readings: the second one being Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. So I went & did some research on it & found another Youtube video. I had shown my grandfather the readings off the car & the Youtube video. But he didn't think that was the problem. Now I'm a 23 year old female & have noooo clue how to fix anything on a car. But I didn't give up. So I go back to do more research & found this forum. When I read to him what Bayside 1 said it finally clicked to him. He's going back today to look at it. So I'm hoping this is a simple fix for me. I was just helping him the the process of elimination so we don't end up spending a ton of money on it. Thank you everyone for your tips. This helps us get closer to the issue!!!!!
My 95 Camry LE 2200 started ran well till warmed up, then stalled (usually at most in opportune times, left turn lane traffic) sometimes not restarting for 5 minutes. The engine would also rev at idle to 2,000 RPM and stall out and re start at freeway speeds. No readings, no check engine light...My mechanic wanted to do a full $250 tune up, that is until I read this...Changed the ECT sensor and Viola, runs perfectly for a $15 part that took 2 minutes to change out.
94 Camry 2.2 stalls after ten min no poweer
I have a 95 Toyota Camry and after having the oil change the spark plugs changed and the spark plug wires changed my car will only go in reverse but will not accelerate forward or any of the other forward gears what could possibly be the problem...the car turns on with no problem and sounds great the only issue is it will not drive forward but it revs up and when given in reverse it drives just fine with no hesitation or anything...all my fluids are fine.. but the check engine light is on
Jennifer Have not run into this issue yet but if it goes in reverse and revs in all directions I would suspect the transmission linkage. Also, inside next to the gear selector there is a small plastic plug. Should be the same color as the rest of the plastic around it. Pry that out and read up about towing mode in your owners manual. There is some sort of switch there they manipulate when towing. You may get lucky!!
Thank u ill try that...
This reply is for the 95 Camry won't go in drive. It has an air leak somewhere maybe the intake boot or your intake if they removed it to do the tune up my 92 Camry was doing the same thing and I just figured it out mine was the intake boot
I have a problem that is pretty similar I have a 1995 toyota camry LE and it starts to stall as im comming to aa stop the only way I can get it to stop sputtering is if its going to turn off I have put it in neutral and rev it over 3000 rpm and them its fine I cant drive long distances with out it trying to stall out when I have to come to a stop and even when im driving it will act as if its trying to sputter along and I have to do the same thing to get it to stop it does it numerous times through out the day and has stalled out so bad it cut off and wouldnt come back on Ive replaced the distributor and the ECT and nothing its still doing it no check engine light is on eaither im running out of options and its a safely issue no body has been able to diagnose it and it doesnt come up with any codes either if anyone knows anything about this id appreciate this greatly im at witts end.
I'm having the same Problem with My 95 Toyota Camry with a 2.2 auto. Mine is A Intermediate Problem sometimes I have to keep My foot on the brake and Gas Peddle. It kind of Acts like a Vacuum leak but at times it will Idle Perfect. My Coolant Temperature Sensor has been replaced. They run real rough and You will get a Service Engine Soon light on. Mine does not have the MIL.light on and at times runs great. It is Possible to Clean the Idle Air Control with good results. You will have to take the throttle Body off and replace the Idle air Control Rubber Gasket. Another Possibility is the EGR tube is Clogged but it should show the Mil. Light. I think Mine is the IAC needs cleaned. My Car has 175,000 Miles on it. I got a new Idle Air Control at A Chain Auto Parts Store. It says Made in Japan so I figure it is similar to what came on the Toyota. Goggle/ Car won't Idle. Their are Several different Complaints but Cleaning the Idle Air Control Cost Very little Money and can be a good Investment in Preventive Maintenance.
My 1992 suddenly began stalling. OT would run but not idle. I added antifreeze in the overflow tank and now it idles perfectly fine. Whew! Total cost about 2 bucks worth of antifreeze.
i replaced engine coolant sensor and ran like a top because sensor was bad saying the car was running hot and would shut off at stop light .
Yeah, I replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor. I had A Service Engine Soon light On. It runs better but I still have a poor Idle at times. It can be hard to start sometimes when it's cold. I watched A Video of where You can.take Your Idle Air Control off and Clean it and they will run like new again. Sometimes it runs like a new one. Carbon builds up in the Sensor. You can take the Idle Air Control off and take it apart and clean it. I seen on U-tube where it will make them run as good as new. I have replaced everything else. I'm going to keep driving the Car. I had a new remanufacterd Transmission put in and the Car has Sentimental Value to Me. New Timing Components,,Wires, Cap Rotor Distributer, Throttle Body to Air Box Tube, Checked timing. Unless I have a Vacume line Craked.That doesn't explain Why It runs So good some times though. I haven't had a chance to check it out. I got something that I'm working on in the Garage.
Torid18 - You described my situation perfectly. And a shop wants to replace my distributor system ($1500). Did you ever solve your problem?? What was it?
i just put a new coolant sensor in it and problem solved
I have a 93 Toyota Camry le. Idles roughs stalls at lights when I got it have to drive with both brake and gas. Found rat nests in maf (mass air flow) box. Cleaned out nests, Iac valve, new egr valve, new o2 upper and down stream. Now car has more power does not stall unless very hot and ac is engaged and can be driven with one foot. But still idles rough. Any help?
You could have carbon in the Emission port where your EGR bolts on. I have had to run a pipe cleaner brush in the area before. You can get them in the plumbing Department at any hardware store. Also the tube going from the EGR valve that is.a.Metel line. You can spray carb. Cleaner around the effected area. RUn the brush around Vigorously. Seeif you are getting chunks of Carbon or a black powder out. Also the Coolant Temperature Sendorsement has caused a lot of People similar problems as what your having. They are under 20.00 at just about any part store. I think it is on or by the Thermostat housing. I had one break idled real bad and rich. The Sensor fell apart on Me when I tried to unplug the connector. Keep us posted. I would inspect the Sensor first. You should check it for resistance and compare it to the new one. If they are close to being the same than it is probably not the CTS.
You also could have plug wires that are breaking down. You might pop the hood at night and see if you have a light show at night. Might be just a need for.a basic tune up.
Ok i haved sain problem but i spend olot monny but i i fine the problem this is was the problem pcv valve and EGR i only clean and works fine only new pcv
I have a 1995 Toyota CAMARY 6 cyl the speedometer and your RPM GO CRAZY does a jerk then has no go won't pick up speed for seconds to min sometimes once a day sometimes off and on all day I have no one to help me and very close to no money does anyone have an idea what might be the problem HELP !
Do you have a service engine soon light that comes on?
I have Camry 2008 v6 with 2gr engine , when the engine gets hot , it is not moving in any gear , just R gear is ok , it is moving only in R gear,
I need the solution , please !!!!
Sorry that I don't have an answer as I am also in Camry Hell. The radiator cracked and let the steam out, the car got hot. never seized and would always turn over on the starter. Compression is 200-205 in 3 cylinders, 170-175 in #2. It runs but stumbles badly when under load, although it seems to rev freely. I have replaced both O2 sensors, the water temperature sensor up by the head, the fuel filter, the air filter, the radiator, removed the idle control switch, while cleaning the throttle body, put that back on once cleaned. Also checked the DC voltage at the throttle sensor, which gave smoothly graduating readings from .9 up through about 3.55 and back. I've pulled and reset the 15amp fuse for the EFI a number of times... it runs better but still stumbles badly. No water in the oil, and no metal in the oil. I'm running out of ideas and am hoping it isn't the brains for the EFI. Any ideas? I'm just about out of them at this point. Thanks, CamryHell (PS, it's a 1994 2.2 liter 4 cylinder Camry w the automatic trans.
Sure Sounds like A Vacuum leak. Use a Vacuum gauge and hook it up to the intake port. You should have at least 17 to 22 in Vacuum. If you don't then you know more. One Cylinder is in the margin of being to low to the other Cylinders. You might also see. What process is involved in testing the MAF sensor. They can cause the Motor to run real rich or lean out so bad that the Exhaust Manifold turns Cherry red. Usually they will quite and strand you. They won't throw a code either. Worse case senero you could pick one up at a Salvage yard. Not a common part to go bad.
Thanks, finally figured it out. It had spark at all 4 plugs, so I had initially figured that was ok. It wasn't, new plug wires did the trick. Having spark isn't the same as enough spark, I have learned. Thanks.
I started experiencing issues with idle at a stop when I had the AC on. I found the idle up solenoid on the opposite end of the manifold stuck. I disassembled the sensor and cleaned it and that fixed the problem but six months later the car was running real rough when I started the car and when waiting at a red light. I had to put the car in neutral every time I came to a stop. blogs mentioned cleaning the idle up control system by cleaning the air intake or removing the air intake for a full cleaning. The idle up device attached to to air intake is not a solenoid, it's a magnetic device that turns a cylindrical idle up shaft that allows more air to bypass the throttle plate to drop manifold vacuum which allows more gas to the engine. The engine will apply voltage to the idle up device to turn the idle up the shaft. The problem here is carbon build up will keep the metal cylinder from turning under the magnetic force applied by the idle up unit. Therefore, the computers effort to open the air bypass fails. Since it's the carbon build up causing the problem and not a device failure, you may experience erratic operation where sometimes things are fine and at other times they are not. Due to age, I was unable to remove the Idle up magnetic sensor to clean this rotating valve, forcing me to remove the intake manifold and I'm glad I did. There was a large amount of carbon deposits which I had to scrape away which no throttle cleaner could remove. After manual cleaning the throttle body, it is obvious that just spraying throttle cleaner into the main throat would have been a waste of time and would have only got 1/3rd of the intake clean and improved performance 30 percent which may satisfy some people. Put everything back together and found not everything was solved. If fixed one thing, that is, when I would start the car. The idle up circuit worked great. During warm up, the computer was now able to raise the idle until the engine was warm. The problem I was really having was poor idle when at a red light. I live in Florida, and didn't realize my idle up circuit wasn't working during cold starts. So back to square one. After reading the above blogs, many say that the temp sensor fixed the problem. Someone also mentioned something of key value and that is that his car use to idle perfectly at 700/800 rpm. That's the key. A light off in my head. My car is idling at 900 rpm's and idling very rough. sure, I could adjust the idle up like some people say but that's crazy. I don't want my car idling at 1100 RPM at a light. So how can a car run rough at 900 RPM and another run smooth at 700 RPM. Obviously it's not an idle up problem or an air intake problem. It would have to be something to do with the air/ fuel mixture. To much of one or the other will cause rough idle. This is why the cylinder temp sensor has fixed so many people problem. Thanks goes out to the gal or guy who mentioned what happens when the temp sensor goes bad. It causes a heavy rich fuel mixture, thus poor idle. I think a girl mentioned something very important. She said she had poor gas mileage. That's the key in knowing your temp sensor is bad. So in summary, the car is well designed and will run well until the manifold is really dirty and a defective temp sensor may not be noticed until the manifold dirt starts causing problems. Therefore. I recommend removing the throttle body for proper cleaning, it's only 4 bolt, and easier than replacing a spark plug. For those who had a bad temp sensor, I suggest you do the same. For those who due both and still have a problem need to replace the fuel filter and clean the EGR valve.
I tried so many things for my 95 Celica St and it just shakes so much when it's warm..... I tried the coolant temp sensor didn't work at all. Car still shakes only when warm... Thinking bout trying the o2 sensor top side.... I spent over 500+ on this problem nothing yet. I'll see if this world, if not I'm bringing it to a specialist! I don't care what I have to spend I just want to the shaking to stop. I'll keep us updated.
Shaking on my car was the transmission / motor mount needed to be replaced
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