Just replaced the idle air control valve and still have issues starting!!!
A few weeks ago I noticed when I would start the car the idle would get very low then stall. Only by really giving it some gas would it start and stay running. So I took it down to shop and they cleaned out the carbon deposits in the idle air control valve, then after starting stopping a couple times went to get something to eat at mall. Then when I came out and tried to start same problem with it turning over then idling low then stalling and only when really giving a lot of gas on accelerator would it turn over and stay running. So I go and order a brand new IAC valve and the shop put it in and they are quite expensive for a 93 Camry SE. After they put it in, I start and stop the car a few times with no problem and then after grabbing some food at restaurant for about half hour to hour, I come back out to start and same problem. Only if I really hit the accelerator to give it gas will it turn over, maintain good idle and stay running. Tonight I went to start it for an errand to the grocery store, and it was the worst it's ever been. Usually my trick of giving it a lot of gas to get it to turn over didn't even work and it felt like somehow the accelerator wasn't giving it enough fuel to start even I was pushing down quite a bit. This is extremely frustrating to say the least since I spent all the money on the new idle air control valve and still has issues starting. Is there any way to check the codes or run a scanner to know exactly what it is? I realize it's a pre 96 car so how would one determine exactly what is going wrong so I can stop paying big bucks to fix something that still doesn't work right. Thanks in advance for any helpful information!
If you have no check engine light on, you may be wasting your time trying to get a code. Try removing your EGR valve hose and see if you notice a difference in how it runs. If it runs better, buy some throttle body cleaner, remove the EGR and clean it. Inspect the EGR. Sometimes they crack. Also inspect your large rubber intake hose that attaches to your throttle body. Those will often crack and let in too much air. That will cause your car to run poorly and stall. You may also want to buy a can of Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner and spray down the contacts there as well. Post back with results.
Thanks for the help Reelin68 and I wanted to give you an update. So Monday I had someone put in a new engine coolant temp sensor and then Tuesday my Check Engine light turns on and then after stopping to get something to eat for around a half hour, I go back to start and same exact problem as always but now with the added bonus of the Check Engine light on. When the guy put in the new temp sensor it was a two hour ordeal since all the diagrams were wrong and took several guys to Toyota guys to find the right place to put it in. So now after another 100 plus dollars spent plus the 500 dollars to clean and put in new idle air control valve, I still have the same exact starting problem plus the Check Engine light is on. I'm wondering how much longer this is going to drag on. Where can I find out exactly what the Check Engine light means? Would it be related to the same starting problems I've been having for several weeks now and regardless of which part I replace, the problem comes right back within a day!! So extremely frustrating! Best regards and thanks for any helpful information!
Paul, if you took it to the dealer, they should have run an error code scan on it regardless. Now that the CEL is on, they shouldn't have any excuses on why they can't fix it. Pretty sad that it took them over 2 hours to change out the ECT sensor. If these "mechanics" had half a brain, they should have also done a fuel pressure test. Did those guys check out the EGR, PVC, MAF while they were in there? Did they check for vacuum leaks? Did they pull your plugs to see if your fuel/air mixture is too lean or too rich? If you go to your local Autozone, they can check your error codes. It may be a faulty TPS or sometimes the throttle body unit needs replacement. I guess we'll know for sure when the codes are read. Write down the codes and post them back here....good luck!
Having the same stalling and starting problem when the car is hot on my 99 Camry and also wasted $600 at dealer for idle control valve. Heard 100 different ideas of how I could throw more $ at it. What was the answer to your problem?
my dudes i had all of the problems yall are talking about and myn turned out to be the tinest thing , on the camry engines all the vacumn hose above and around the throttle body running to EGR,MAP,IAC,intake , check alll the tiny hoses for leaks on my 1999 camry 2.2 i hade a tiny vacuam lin that runs from the intake too the little MAP sensor on the firewall the small vacum line the comes from the top on the intake with a rubber elbow then turns to a hard line the meeting point of the two had became loose and slowly worked its way out, i had pulled my whole throotle body apart cleaning checking hoses, the works, new plugs, alll the sensors, sat down watched a youtube video explaing map sensors and boom found tiny connection that was loose car is driving like a dream, stay calm do your research and dont throw away half of your tax return like me and use your noodle
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