"Clunking" from front-end. 2004 Lincoln Town Car
This is a new question concerning an issue with my car. I have a 2004 Lincoln Town Car and when I turn the wheel right, accelerate hard or brake hard, it makes a "clunking" sound in the front-end. I can feel the clunking in both the steering wheel and brake pedal. I haven't really had the time to look in the daylight, but I have peeked around with a flashlight. So far, I have been unsuccessful in finding anything "out of the ordinary". I took the car to a shop yesterday and the checked the brakes and front-end suspension; told me "everything is picture perfect", therefore, I'm at a loss. Any suggestions as to what to look at? Thank you!
Ball joints? http://www.wikihow.com/Check-Ball-Joints
Well, I doubt ball joints. Only reason I say that, is because not only did the shop say they were fine but the problem still occurs upon straight acceleration and deacceleration. I could be wrong though.
I don't believe wheel bearings because they're easier to check than ball joints
Front stabilizer bar end links were noisy and hard to duplicate noise. Then when drive the car in and out of driveways in parking areas they would start making noise again. Even when those cars were relatively new.
Upper A arm bushings will cause this ,, the A arm is sliding back and fourth on its locating bolt/axis.......may just need greased.
A loose control arm that slides when you turn and accellerate or brake could cause this on panther platform cars because the arm shafts were bolted to the frame extension beneath them. The adjusters, if left loose, could break free and slide. also an impact upon the front tire and wheel could break them free to slide. When inspecting for this kind of very unusual condition, you would look down at the upper arms from the top. The shine of the bare metal would be seen,at the caster/camber adjusters. This could happen to the cars 95 and prior for sure. You would have to find that they still use the same configuration.
I still say those stabilizer end links are likely because of the sound they make, the fact they do not show outward signs of failure, and the number of them I did have verification of in their first few years. Eventually the water getting in to the little ball and seat design can cause breakage.
I just googled it and it has been somewhat redesigned for the upper arm. losseness at the adjustment for caster/camber or toe would be more correct. since you have to turn and accellerate or brake ? even moreso for all the part possibilities mentioned. The stabilizer link is activated by the car rising and falling in that response. The adjusters are pulled and pushed against as well. loose adjuster sleeves can result in loss of steering control. that's bad.. oooh that would be bad. Since it is "front steer" it would be at very low speed and just require a call to AAA.
Since the car is 10 ? You still cannot rule out powertrain and engine mount insulators
A The sub frame to frame bolt are loose (there are four of them). One dealer replaced lower control arms, didn't tighten fully. B Body roll accumulator (lower control arm rear bushing) is broken or mal adjusted, and arm strikes floor. Every Dealer sets toe OUT 1/16 and at times they actually un-center the bushing. I return it 1/16 toe in and gripe if they charged me for alignment. I think it's a passive aggressive sales technique to get TC owner out of their RWD cars. C The ball joints could be failing. Camber is .6 negative will reduce to .4 degrees when bad worn.
Toe setting is within tolerance at both measurements you mentioned. cowtowncar. ..There has always been outer edgewear on tires for this model. Changing it more toed out has been the remedy, but choice of tires by tread design has a pronounced improvement in my experience. The z800 was a good tire for these.( -.4) deg camber sounds correct. (-.6) deg is still ok. Any higher, and the SAI ,being as it is, can produce excessive edgewear. especially in the city, predominantly. But we are now discussing the asker's car ? or a different one? what is its build date make, model, and year? the same?
My TC is 09. I have a $30 gauge from Speedway for camber. Rarely fuss with castor. I keep hubs and ball joints torqued. Make sure accumulators forward and rear bolt centered. I prefer toe in 1/16, air 33psi. I get 50k plus from Michelin Energy tires. I hate Toe out, feels vague and causes tire scrub. I replaced upper control arms, lower ball joints and tie rods with moogs cuz greasable. I modded the body roll accumulators by filling air space with polyurethane (Loctite PLS30). It transmits a bit more road harshness but improves precision. It feels like new behind the wheel at 88K miles,
Makes sense to want toe set to where you have it. As suspension moves and tires spread with accelleration, it finds the neutral, the tires roll straight ahead and wear like you want..........however, your vehicle has changes made to it. The factory bulletins from before were helping cars with a different set of parts. I havent looked yours up, but now you put parts or change to the designed intent, you cannot compare them as before. But what part are you referring to as an accumulator? "body roll accumulators" ? When you use terms for parts that were not on the car or called that no one knows.
What I did gather from what you wrote was a problem you experienced with loose bolts between the frame holding the subframe, a bushing out of place and an "arm" that hits the floor board? lower control arm? Certainly could have movement to cause the asker's noise. If theirs is made the same.
But then, their "front end inspection" said things were all "picture perfect" Wouldn't you then, say it is time to have the information provided to their dealer, a road test with a real suspension specialist, some NVH experienced ears, hook up the chassis ear tool, and make the car act up for the technician? Or should they order some parts out of circle track magazine they can pay to grease every 3000miles ?
FWD cars are toe out. RWD are toe in, for a street car. I suppose you could resolve a pull or drift problem, when a part like a control arm is worn but still in spec (not replaceable under warranty). When my TC is set toe out the drive feel deteriorates and tires develop inner wear. It feels like I am driving a bathtub half full of water. The Body Roll Accumulators are the Rearward Front Lower Control Arm Bushings. They come with a new Ford Lower Control Arm. Mevotech makes an after market part.
Toe specs have a range, setting them toed out has never been preferred unless there was engineering involvement in changing the recommendation. ..........ask any align tech that you can find (0 deg) or (0") is preferred. The allowable range is a few millimeters either way, this means causing excessive wear would not be realized.......Front wheel drive cars, because of how they respond to accelleration in driving their front wheels is cancelled by the natural plowing and spreading apart, so... (0deg) then braking forces are yet another thing. If you have a driver of considerable weight ? You have them sit in the car sometime, while it is on the machine at curb weight. How do you allow for that ? The readings can go haywire. You must add weight to the driver's side floor. How many shops do this ? The answer is not unless you get them on the subject. They can't talk about how much a driver weighs. If it is over 150 lbs ? That is outside designed parameters making responsibility for it fall to the customer.
Rear wheel drive vehicles have been set toed in historically till the rack and pinion was in use. for some of the same reasons. But if a car has inner edge wear it has likely been set too far out. If a customer has special needs, you can find the preferred settings for his car, I guarantee the factory specs will include his possibilities. I would point out that any covered item that is found out of specification CAN be replaced under warranty. If you show the service manager the failed part, you look at the inspection technique for the spec you are checking, and you demonstrate the problem with your evidence, he will agree every time, WHY ? That's how he gets his numbers up. listening to people, helping them get what they want, writing an RO, and getting paid.........The trouble would come if he did that for every guy who wanted Moog performance from his factory parts, parts of a different design, or to customize his vehicle using the dealers blank check. That is how he would commit work suicide. The best thing to do, is ask his superiors, another dealer, or Ford themselves. When you speak to engineering hotline as a dealer employee, they can explain anything you have trouble with. They can authorize any part to be replaced, They can send the DSE to see the car and make the measurements. If the tech is wrong? He can charge his time and trip to that dealer. If you have a valid concern, they would correct it. But who pays for all this required time? Certainly not the manufacturer. They have factory time already listed in a book. if the tech has to exceed it ? who pays ? The technicians kids. They get no presents, they eat cheap, they live cheap. This is why, if you have a valid concern? Get a dealer manager to inspect it with you to verify it. He has to sign off on it and submit it for a claim. if it does not get believed or accepted? No payment. Thats the way it truly is.
The factory calls for failed parts to be returned sometimes for study. if they cannot understand or find the failure? or there is any confusion in the customers problem and THAT being the fix? They dont ask, they just take the money from the dealer. Then every person involved is treated as an incompetent. By the bean counters. Please voice your concern to the correct person and get it checked/ corrected. If they dont listen, you can get sent to the dealer they preferr for you in the area. They have a 1-800- number. It is provided when you buy the car, in your owners literature.
You can write them a letter and include photographs and your data, as well as how you reach your findings. If you use their books? and you disagree ? not uncommon, the book a year newer can have the update or correction you seek. Your dealer has it as service manual update or TSB, "broadcast message" or SSM and some other ways they also tell engineering info. If there is no discussion on your concern, that does not mean they cant start one, with YOU
A town car can have greater coverage than the crown vic, for instance. If you exceed 3/36 ? Your owners warranty card has every piece of info you need to request the time and mileage they cover. You can also buy an ESP policy. That covers beyond. call your dealer and provide your info, then ask for their recommendations about finding your symptom. They are nice, but they cannot play by your rules.
The asker of the question at hand just needs to demonstrate his concern for the service manager at his selling dealer. Then ask for help, explain his circumstances, and keep demonstrating his concern for them till they understand and find it.
I have a similar problem where the car jerks everytime I hit the brake. The mechanic said this part broke off the frame. He said it is spot-welded to the frame, and I need get it from a junkyard and cut around it. But I don't know what it's called. Does anyone know what this tea-cup shaped part is called? maybe a collar or dished washer or something? 1999 Lincoln Continental - attaches to the lower control arm bushings.
Use google, mmy and symptom. there are photos and a site thats about those parts for control arms, but i would call the Ford dealer parts people. Thats all they do, their new computers have by application as well as the microfische drawings. numbers off the part can help with a base number. Then the method of replacement that's best can be decided. seems like a body shop or frame shop recommended by them is best if you have further questions about authorized welding on that vehicle frame. They have warned about carbon contamination in welds etc. since the 70's that I know of.
You should start a new question with all of your vehicle info
I found part sets available, WWW.1aauto.com/1998-02- suspension-kit-front...........You could select your part from that set of pics ? you could give the rest of your vehicle info, perspective about part length and diameter for a match is difficult, but your technician should be able to identify with help from a certified Ford parts counterman.
A continental is a different animal, be sure to give accurate data, and receive excellent info about updates, service bulletin possibilites, and procedure changes, you can find them in an automotive database, like alldata, or mitchell. it's free at the public library if you cannot just make a phone call or goto the parts counter at your Ford dealer.
Parts with these type issues from water entry can be corrected during tire replacement , each time it is inspected, Or during a specific complaint about noise or feel. after 16 years, you can bet there is a goto at the ready.
I will look for your full question to come up, having your info about your car, where on the car you find this part and from what position are you photographing it. You should see a picture of my navel without perspective, its a mindscrambler.
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