what went wrong?

Asked by Jan 06, 2014 at 10:10 PM about the 1993 Ford Festiva GL

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

replaced mt leaking valve cover gasket on my otherwise perfect running 1993 festiva, found  i had to remove the throttle body to remove the valve cover. made my own gasket since no one had one available for the throttle body. there are 2 hoses that heat the throttle body that i removed and simply placed a u hose to route the water directly to the isc/bpa valve. now i fire it up idles fine revs when cold but when warmed up you cannot accelerate open the throttle it just cuts out the runs cuts out then runs the warmer it gets the worse it gets. i am positive it is not a intake leak at the new gasket area. sprayed around the area and no change in idle so no leak. just had the car smog test and the test connector lead you are suppose to use to ground to check the timing cuts the engine off. i will pull the throttle body tomorrow and see if i somehow did not make a passage in the gasket that is the only thing i can guess it is. car has run great and have been the only owner of it with 190k on the clock, really cannot understand what happened unless there is some electrical problem (the non working test lead that should let you check/set baseline timing maybe the ecm is going south) please help this is my budget commuter car, i need to get it fixed.

5 Answers


If it ran fine before it has to be something you changed. The throttle body gasket is where I would start.

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maybe get rid of that u hose bypass you concocted , the floe may be needed to send proper sensor data, the newer cars are designed in strange ways where some of the simplest mods. throw things out of kilter

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checked throttle body gasket, good, found that u hose bypass affected idle control air bypass, found best fix there was block flow of hose and let it sense block water temp not full flow fro throttle body. reason i bypassed was lines were clogged up poor flow (which actually helped) now with one hose to heater line blocked and the other hose from the engine block to the thermal relay seems to work the best for now. disconnected temp sender viola! no more cutting out during warmup or at temp. engine does not respond as it did and idles faster at temp. this leads me to believe the ecm has a problem there are 2 curves cold and at temp. the cold curve is working still engine does not perform as it should in traffic engine heats up quickly as speed engine temp is normal but down on power/response. reconnect temp sensor and issue returns and car is un drivable. i need to check the ohmage of the sensor but i doubt it has gone bad in the hot mode a sensor fails it fails altogether not at one or the other. i could be wrong but doubt it.


If this is the temp. sensor for the ecm/computer when it fails it will read -40 on a ford and flood the engine out more as the engine gets hotter

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what do you think went wrong when I ran my ford festiva hot

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