truck wont start unless jumped, just clicks, but battery, starter, alt test good.

Asked by May 07, 2017 at 11:42 PM about the 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD LS Crew Cab SB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Hi, my truck requires a jump to start.  It just clicks a bunch when i turn the
key.  However, battery tests at 13.46v while off. same exact reading at the
solenoid.  alternator tested good at autozone.  took starter off and oreillys
tested it 4x, good each time.  i hooked starter to battery using jumper
cables, when i hit the positive clamp to the small bolt on the solenoid, it
made the flywheel stick out. then when i bypassed the solenoid with a
screwdriver, the flywheel stuck out and spins.  i did this on the connections
both before and after the solenoid. success both ways.  i also checked the
resistance on the relay, it's as it should be. even bought a new relay to
compare to. Why does my truck need a jump to start, when the battery is
good??  all my grounds are tight than i can tell. i found two grounds: one
from someplace behind engine and connected to firewall area. Second one
from battery to behind the bumper. theyre dirty but not corroded at all, and
they are tight.  and again, the solenoid has the same voltage reading as
the battery, so i konw the wiring between the two is good. i keep thinking
still that the solenoid is bad.... if it's clicking but wont start, then the ignition
wire is sending power to the solenoid, but it's not switching the solenoid on
the inside to pull directly from the battery cable....agree? thoughts? I'm no
mechanic... everything i said here is ALL i know.  i dont comprehend
anything else without spending 24 more hours on google and forums LOL.
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!!

6 Answers

Don't trust tests as reliable at these parts stores it's a gamble. I've had them say a battery etc was good, when in fact it was bad. It sounds like a battery. The voltage can read good but your cold cranking amps might not be. Check how old the battery is by the date on it & have a load test done. If you can try a different battery.

20

Cold cranking amps could also be too low and the jump helps cover the shortage

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
105,305

I agree, this sounds like a battery problem, not enough cranking amps avaliable, did anyone run a good load or cell test on the battery? I don't trust those new hand held load testers, find someone that uses the old style carbon pile load testers, now those babies can really load a battery and if it has any weakness it will find it.

Thanks y'all! oreillys ran a load test today....and turns out it's not putting out many amps. (Previous battery test was while battery was still on the truck). So...Factory defect battery I guess now. Still under warranty fortunately. Thanks again for your time and input!

If I still have trouble when I replace the battery tomorrow I'll let y'all know!

Turns out it was the battery after all. I've only had it about eight months, but it was not putting out enough cranking amps. Got a warranty replacement on it . Thanks for everyone's time and help! Have a good weekend.

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