1994 ranger 2.3 cranks but wont start.

35

Asked by Nov 11, 2015 at 02:15 PM about the 1994 Ford Ranger XLT Standard Cab LB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

can't find a inertia switch, replaced fuel pump and ran a few days then again,
no start. replaced fuel filter, ran a week then again no start. replaced ignition
switch, no change. replaced fuel pump relay, no change. need to check fuel
pressure?

13 Answers

The inertia switch is on the right (passenger) side kick panel. Whoever drew the red line mess is accurate, you will have to pull carpet back and if the inertia switch is deployed it will show red on the stem. Just push the button on top

5 of 5 people found this helpful.

Better image

3 of 3 people found this helpful.
Best Answer Mark helpful

Fuel pressure specs are 40 +/- 5 psi with key on engine not running and 30 +/- 5 at idle

3 of 3 people found this helpful.
35

put gauge on and no psi with key on. possible fuel pump again? or filter clogged already? gonna try some starter fluid to eliminate spark, i am at a loss...

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

That is what I would do. No pressure with key on means pump usually, a filter seldom gets so clogged that it will not allow ANY fuel to pass through, unless somebody poured sugar or sand in your tank. Any chance of that? Sugar, contrary to popular belief, does not dissolve in gas. It remains granular. If vandalism is a possibility. But starting fluid test is good. Just don't use too much, a 4 second squirt in to intake is more than enough

3 of 3 people found this helpful.
35

don't "think" it is sugar, however tank was full so bed was removed to replace fuel pump. where do I check the 12v for pump? Do I have have to check right at the tank? Is there a place under the hood and where do I find it. I'm at a loss. I DO appreciate your time and effort.

Yep, right at the tank where the power supply feeds pump with a multi-meter. Checking under the hood will not tell you if a wire to pump is broken or shorted, between fuse/relay and pump. You have to go to the end. It's a returnless system, so the pump will not run when pressure is up.... meaning it could be good and you not hear it trying to pump or even have a voltage read if no power is being delivered to pump when pressure is up. Maybe try bleeding fuel from injector rail, to release pressure, A helper would be really good, to turn key to 'run' position while you are at the pump access. What engine is it?

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
35

2.3L yesterday borrowed a fuel pump test gauge kit from autozone and had key off was putting on ford adapter to shraeder valve and there was a light weeping. But when I had gauge hooked up and key on 0 psi, not the 40 psi I should've had.

But either way, this is underhood PDC, click image for full screen

3 of 3 people found this helpful.
35

I agree,

35

I pulled the bed and took the plug to fuel pump back off. Do you know which of the four wires is the 12 volts? I have a blk,red,yel/grn and blk/yel. I wasn,t able to get 12 v between any combo of wires or any one to chassis ground. Can I pull one of the hoses to see if it pumps? Someone had said I should "feel" the fuel pump relay when it clicks but I didn't with new one installed or old one. Dont know where to go from here?

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
35

I pulled the bed and took the plug to fuel pump back off. Do you know which of the four wires is the 12 volts? I have a blk,red,yel/grn and blk/yel. I wasn,t able to get 12 v between any combo of wires or any one to chassis ground. Can I pull one of the hoses to see if it pumps? Someone had said I should "feel" the fuel pump relay when it clicks but I didn't with new one installed or old one. also put code tester on and light just stayed on. i don't think the test mode iniated.

35

even thought it was new wound up being a bad fuel pump!

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