The inertia switch is on the right (passenger) side kick panel. Whoever drew the red line mess is accurate, you will have to pull carpet back and if the inertia switch is deployed it will show red on the stem. Just push the button on top

Fuel pressure specs are 40 +/- 5 psi with key on engine not running and 30 +/- 5 at idle

put gauge on and no psi with key on. possible fuel pump again? or filter clogged already? gonna try some starter fluid to eliminate spark, i am at a loss...

That is what I would do. No pressure with key on means pump usually, a filter seldom gets so clogged that it will not allow ANY fuel to pass through, unless somebody poured sugar or sand in your tank. Any chance of that? Sugar, contrary to popular belief, does not dissolve in gas. It remains granular. If vandalism is a possibility. But starting fluid test is good. Just don't use too much, a 4 second squirt in to intake is more than enough

don't "think" it is sugar, however tank was full so bed was removed to replace fuel pump. where do I check the 12v for pump? Do I have have to check right at the tank? Is there a place under the hood and where do I find it. I'm at a loss. I DO appreciate your time and effort.

Yep, right at the tank where the power supply feeds pump with a multi-meter. Checking under the hood will not tell you if a wire to pump is broken or shorted, between fuse/relay and pump. You have to go to the end. It's a returnless system, so the pump will not run when pressure is up.... meaning it could be good and you not hear it trying to pump or even have a voltage read if no power is being delivered to pump when pressure is up. Maybe try bleeding fuel from injector rail, to release pressure, A helper would be really good, to turn key to 'run' position while you are at the pump access. What engine is it?

2.3L yesterday borrowed a fuel pump test gauge kit from autozone and had key off was putting on ford adapter to shraeder valve and there was a light weeping. But when I had gauge hooked up and key on 0 psi, not the 40 psi I should've had.

But either way, this is underhood PDC, click image for full screen

I agree,

I pulled the bed and took the plug to fuel pump back off. Do you know which of the four wires is the 12 volts? I have a blk,red,yel/grn and blk/yel. I wasn,t able to get 12 v between any combo of wires or any one to chassis ground. Can I pull one of the hoses to see if it pumps? Someone had said I should "feel" the fuel pump relay when it clicks but I didn't with new one installed or old one. Dont know where to go from here?

I pulled the bed and took the plug to fuel pump back off. Do you know which of the four wires is the 12 volts? I have a blk,red,yel/grn and blk/yel. I wasn,t able to get 12 v between any combo of wires or any one to chassis ground. Can I pull one of the hoses to see if it pumps? Someone had said I should "feel" the fuel pump relay when it clicks but I didn't with new one installed or old one. also put code tester on and light just stayed on. i don't think the test mode iniated.

even thought it was new wound up being a bad fuel pump!

Under the carpet on the passenger side there is a fuel pump shutoff switch it is right under the glove box to the left a little

I hope this helps someone out. I have a 94 ranger 4 cyl. I had the Crank no start issue. Replaced the mentioned items in previous posts and nothing. Someone commented on the check engine brake lights not coming on when you cycle the ignition. I turned the ignition on and reached up under the dash and started tugging on the wiring harness looking for loose wires. The check engine light flickered on. So i pushed the wiring harness around till it stayed on and truck started first crank. Still not sure what is the main issue as i dont want to take my dash apart. I wish someone had mentioned trying this $500 ago

June 2019, I drove a 94 Ranger for 15 years three years ago I sold it to my sister in law for $300.00 Fuel pump would not work sometimes. Removed relay dirt cover and connected Fuel pump relay to 12-volt lawn mower battery. Checked contacts looked fine even left the relay energized for several hours. Changed computer $90.00, bought new relay $14.00, had truck towed three time $330.00 paid a mechanic $325.00 worked fine for two weeks then sometimes no start. If I did not hear the pump kick on with switch in the run position, I knew the truck would not start. She wanted a truck to haul so I sold it to her. Her boy friend and his brother pulled the top off the Relay compartment and found a loose spade terminal on the pump relay coil terminal, they tightened the terminal up with needle nose pliers. No problems with fuel pump after three years. I bought a new Nissan Frontier and I still miss my Ranger a lot more that my Ex-wife.

GuruBXDHB can you explain about what you explained about the brake light engine light situation. Im having similar problems