I have a 1986 Toyota Camry and it has a small crack in the engine what can I do that as a low cost to me to fix it?

You can try J/B Weld may work may not...copy and paste...https://www.google.com/url? sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://m.youtube.c om/watch%3Fv%3DWrPugU3qFD8&ved=0CDgQ twIwAGoVChMImvGos6GJyAIVyLYaCh0IWwlC& usg=AFQjCNEUdQ2wmA7- tOBGKMtWvlmoITZr0w

Nothing. Sorry to be the messenger. But if you know for fact the block is cracked you need an rebuilt engine. No such thing as 'small' if it it cracked its cracked, does not matter it it's 1/10" inch or 10 inch

OK, are we talking about the block?

i want to know where the crack is...to tell you !

Its on the block. Just below the head

water or oil area???

if its a low pressure area...you have several ways of repairing it

Oil area

Could it be welded for a temporary fix?

1st Generation 2.0L - 3S-FE ... maybe. If you can find somebody that actually knows how to weld cast iron. And take proper precautions during process i.e. not light your car on fire

Quote: Cast iron is difficult, but not impossible, to weld. In general, it is preferred to weld cast iron with preheat--and lots of it --- Cut and pasted from - Lincoln Welders - website http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/Pages/welding-cast-iron-detail.aspx

My point krystalM is all is not lost. But the first aluminum block in a Camry was 1987. Then we would be discussing welding aluminum, a whole 'nother ball game. But. DO NOT allow some backyard welder who claims he can weld it , 'eh... no prob gotcha covered babe'. But you see what I am getting at? It takes heat heat and more heat...far more than enough to ignite motor oil

I got intrigued by this and looked it up. The flash point of motor oil is 420°F for conventional oil and 450°F synthetic. It varies by Brand and viscosity but not much.... Lighter oils lower FP. . "Flash Point" is the temperature that the oil will begin to evaporate and vapors ignite. I am not saying your block can not be welded, but it is not necessary to drain the oil first. On the contrary, the heat will be dissipated with more oil present. Residual oil left on a drained engine will heat up more quickly. But you say "Just below the head" and that creates problems with burning up the head gasket. Now this is another excerpt from Lincoln Welders: "Because of the nature of cast iron, tiny cracks tend to appear next to the weld even when good procedures are followed. If the casting must be water tight, this can be a problem. However, leaking can usually be eliminated with some sort of sealing compound or they may rust shut very soon after being returned to service." End quote. It must be allowed to cool as slowly as possible, so it might be wise to drain coolant first to prevent it from pulling heat from weld. Best wishes, good luck with this. All my curiosity is leading to you just might be able to get a permanent fix and not need a new engine. But If you don't mind, And please define 'small'? ¼" - 1" - ? How do you know about this crack? A mechanic? Did he clean the area thoroughly and truly inspect it? Or just see oil leaking and conclude that the block is cracked and not a head gasket? Or even a valve cover gasket with oil running down... when valve cover gaskets leak they can play tricks on you and run along surfaces before dripping.

Thank you very much

You are quite welcome, and I hope I was of some help. Good luck k