2010 Ford Bantam, revving problem, surges - HELP?
Have a 2010 Ford Bantam 1.3i XL; bought it brand new and now has about 35000km on the clock with absolute no modifications done to it.
I have an issue with this thing revving, regardless of weather when i roll up to a traffic light and engage the clutch the rpm climbs up to about 2800rpm. This is eratic as it doesn't do it all the time; the rpm also varies its not always 2800rpm sometimes more and less.
Also when driving under half throttle conditions the car seems to have surges like epilepsy.
The dealer has had the car four different times and they can't seem to sort it out. They have replaced an "idler valve" (seriously? an idler valve? can someone please explain that to me?) and redid settings and I'm not sure what else, but to no avail.
So I'm looking for some advice if someone else has gone through a similar ordeal?
Also, is there a way of testing the TPS and MAF sensor? As I have my money going on those two.
Any comment or advice would be much appreciated!
Well, i have not found any solution neither has my dealer. What we found that works though is disconecting the positive off the battery for 15mins and reconect. This sorts all problems out only temporarily. Its called a soft reset. I would like some feedback if any one could comment? Further Reading... More info on Soft Resets: This resets the car's ECU and clears any DTC's for the moment. Although the ECU will always keep record of DTCs (unless cleared by a diagnostics computer) and if the DTC is still applicable after the soft reset. It will illuminate the engine light again after the third key turn. This method doesn't fix the airbags light, i have a couple of diagnostics computers and so far it seems only dealers can reset the Airbags light. MrRocket12 out
I had a similar problem and took it to the agents and the told me it was the accelerator cable which they said they replaced it then it happened again I then found a very knowledgeable techie and he showed me in the engine there were 3 pieces of 10mm rubber pipes attached to a tpiece with one side going to the tappet cover there was a hole in one of them and when blocked engine stopped revving simple solution Brian
Hello I also have a problem with my bantam rocam. Every time I change the coil pack it runs well for 2 months and misfiring again starting at hole number 2. This is the third coil pack now. I bought new leads last year and plugs are new
Hi. I had the very same problem with my 2009 1.3 rocam and found it to be the so called lamda/throttle sensor. its located right opposite where the throttle cable hooks on the throttle housing.
If you fit a new coil pack to these ROCAM engines, you must use a genuine Ford Coil pack from the Ford dealer parts department. If you have the 2007 onwards Bantam with the oxygen sensor (Euro2 system), if you check for fault codes and see non, still clear the fault codes and let the engine idle for a while as the PCM system has to learn the new values.
Hi I have ford bantam with a rocam engine. The car start and idle gor a while when u want to accelerate it dies.what can the problem be
What year model is your Bantam ?
Guru97fk8 If it is not the throttle sensor try checking the plug located next to the water pipes feeding the car air heater for moist.
Hi, I have a 2011 1300 bantam, found a similar problem, doesn't accellerate then goes all of a sudden, replaced the TP Sensor and it was fine after that. Don't allow anyone one to clean the engine, even dealer when servicing done, sensor doesn't like water, not sealed well enough. I put a bead of sensor sealant on back, carefull not to get anything on the mechanism.
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