2011 suburban will not star every 3-4 days.

Asked by Mar 17, 2012 at 10:46 PM about the 2011 Chevrolet Suburban

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

My suburban (2011) will sometimes make a click sound when trying to start...completely dead . The lights still work
and I can get it to start by charging very briefly on a wall charger. Was told not the battery and they can't figure it
out...help! This happen every 3-4 days!

9 Answers


is it under warrenty? keep calling dealer ask them if they buy back


its probably got a bad ground check the ground wire from the battery to the block. also the key may be bad does it happen with the same key or others? and does it always happen in the same parking spot? or diffrent locations?


After researching my resources, I did not come up with anything. I would recommend you contact your dealer to have the vehicle properly diagnosed. Vanessa, Chevrolet Customer Service

1 people found this helpful.

My guess is that you have a parasitic battery drain somewhere in the electrical system that is killing the battery enough to cause the starter to not turn (but not enough to kill lights, etc), but when you start it after charging the alternator charges the battery. These little buggers are hard to find. Its not your problem, it should be under warranty, they need to make it right and fix it, or call GM and complain about lack of dealer support

1 people found this helpful.

voltage drop on battery cables uses up the batteries' thunder. charging can overcome the resistance, temporarily. The resistance can be at any connection or contact. It can be B+ or B- either half of the circuit. It can be at the starter solenoid, or any connection or relay before. There are simplew tests and circuit protections to check. The tests are simple but knowledge and equipment help greatly. I recommend cleaning at the cables first, get it started and get to your GM garage for the best actual answer.

1 people found this helpful.

funny I'm having same problem - two jumps in 2 weeks. OnStar unfortunately doesn't work when 'battery dies' which is infuriating. Luckily I was at home both times. After first time I paid to have analysis done even though under extended warranty. They said its fine, no errors and they recharged battery. we had noticed when driving prior to first time it went bad that the voltage meter on dashboard was moving while on a long drive from Cleveland to DC. Strange. I am taking it back a second time and will ask if the first time they cleaned off the ground wire and also the person from roadside said these batteries can be maintenance something about having distilled water in or something like that. I refuse to pay another 25.00 to have them 'investigate' a problem they cleared me of... I'm a woman and also sometimes feel I get the run around because of that. However I am educated and resourceful and research internet as I am now.

1 people found this helpful.

First question for the asdker of this question, is what is the battery's state of charge. a hydrometer is cheap, quick and simple. parts store, 1-2$. desired reading is 1260-1270 specific gravity. DVOM reading should exceed 12.6V. Then volt drop tests during cranking. after inspections of obvious problems. with corrosion. loose parts, improper assembly, etc. If intermittant open existed in the start relay portion of the start solenoid, you would have to find it during these teasts, or take yours apart. Is yours a GM part? Are any fasteners loose there? is the cover cracked? Can you clean a metal tab and rebend it? This is the extent of the wonder magic required. A few wire brushes, end wrenches, some distilled water, a meter, a hydrometer. A charger, If you want to be in the mechanic business or the battery business, you have these, if you fix your own car, you have these. I f you dont have these, you can get them cheap, take your battery to be tested as well as your starter. The shop charges you because they are looking at a warranty that pays when the failed, covered, item is found..That item has a time and part allowance, it has to correct the problem....Help them find it, regardless of your gender, since that is not their issue.......................................When you find the condition and write down the readings, you can submit that as verifying the intermittant condition, you already know you can charge up your own battery, now you have to find it when it acts up, or get it to act up for them.... it is frustrating no matter where you were born or how you go #1........Me, personally? I would run tests on it or take it apart and find it or get testing steps and follow them till I found it. Then replace it with a part I liked, and have to be responsible for my choice. That beats the frustration... But that's just what I think.


Oh, yea, experience teaches a mechanic to not only test, but use his ingenuity during testing, a concern like an open winding that does not act up when you want, can require the temp or the vibration. you can individual component test as you tear it down, you can have it checked on the bench, or rebuild or replace as you like, you can keep your core, pay the small fee, and your nose cone can be kept in service and you can swap it onto your rig, good luck !


A vehicle that drains its own battery, can be tested with a DVOM. you can test it, ask them to test it, or testit yourself during the conditions where it acts up. what component uses the missing juice? You must figure that out. put a protected ammeter in series at a battery connection to monitor, catch the poltergeist in action. That can be helpful to diagnosing what part causes it, discuss it with the tech who has the joy of not finding it a few times and he can make suggestions.

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