New battery. Car starts, but will not move forward or reverse.


Asked by May 24, 2014 at 03:05 AM about the 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer O-Z Rally

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

My Mitsubishi lancer 2003 was undriven for about a year. The battery died so i just
replaced it. When I started it the car started and is running, but the battery and parking
brake light on. It is a manual transmission, so when I put it in first gear or reverse the car
only rev but the speed stays at zero.  The parking brake was newly maintained as well as
the starter before I stopped driving the car a year ago.  I check the new battery with a
battery charger and it was low so I recharged it, but the car still shows the battery &
parking brake lights and I cannot drive forward or reverse.

Please help. What else should I check?

11 Answers


Brakes could be seized to rotors or drums. Jack up vehicle and try to spin each wheel by hand. Note that vehicle will need to be in neutral for front wheels to spin and the parking brake will have to be released for rear wheels to spin. Also is your an automatic or standard model? As far as the lights to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Thanks dandyyoun, I will try that later today. It is an OZ Rally standard. The shift stick shifts from 1st gear to fifth gear and reverse gear fine, without any issue. My car is currently parked on my driveway which is slightly tilted. My Lancer will roll backwards on my driveway since it is a standard, so I always have in neutral or first gear and put the parking brakes (E brakes) on.


Ok if it rolls it's not a brake seize issue.

Best Answer

If you have it in gear and e brake released will it still roll? If so possibly clutch slipping or slave cylinder not releasing pressure on thro out bearing causing the clutch to slip. Just a thought though.


Thanks dandyoun, your rely was really helpful! The brakes really was seized. My neighbour a crossed the street saw me trying to un-seized the brake today, so he came over with a circular metal pipe and a hammer and tapped my drum brakes and front disc brakes the wheels un-seized itself. He then asked me to start my car and tapped my alternator and the battery and parking brake lights turned off. I then had to rev in reverse and in first gear above 4,000 rev in order to get the car moving. The speed odometer still stayed at zero, but eventually started to move when I rev over 4,000 rev in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. If I rev lower than 4,000 it nearly moved at all in each gears. Eventually it started to work normally. Thank you so much for you input and help. I greatly appreciate it.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I currently have another question: this all start when I let Mitsubishi service my car and my car has never been the same since. My car makes a "tick tick tick" sound when the car is in motion, when I accelerate, or when I am reversing. The car is fine and no issue when it is idle and running. Only then the car starts moving then the sound starts. Had a Mitsubishi tech student look at it and a small shop mechanic look at it they replace the arm and strut and other stuff, but noise still continue. Thanks in advance!

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Glad you got it moving. The tick sounds could be any number of things. Cv joints, brake pads or wheel bearings to name a few. Can you tell from which wheel the noise is coming from?


The brake pads and wheel bearing were checked back then. The CV joints they didn't look at or mention. I read online that it is something that needs to be dealt with ASAP. I mostly do not have the knowledge to fix it. Is it easy or hard to fix? The noise Is coming from the front wheels, sometimes I hear it on the left passenger side, this time I heard it on the driver side. One of the people looking at my car at year or two ago regarding this issue suggested it maybe the catalytic converter. He was the one checking the brake pads and wheel bearing and he replaced some other parts on the wheel area trying to fix the issue at hand. Cost of labour and part was start to cost more than the value of the car so I stop letting him keep trying.


Sorry for the incorrect grammar, the auto-correct on this iPad keeps changing some words automatically after I go and fixed the words

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Mine does the same thing. Auto correct is not always correct. Lol. Visually inspect the boots of cv joints. Are they cracked? Is grease coming out of them? If so it's probably time to replace them. When you make a slow tight turn does the sound get louder? If so cv joint issues.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Sorry for the delay in replying back. When I drive it for a while the sounds reduces a bit, But It does makes the noise when I make the turns or go in the lower speeds and the sound does get loud again. You can hear the sound inside the car, but if I have the windows open you don't hear it as much from the outside of the car. There is no issue with the clutch or shift stick works perfectly. My friend across the street said that my transmission maybe low on oil. i haven't got the chance to look at the cv joints yet, will have to wait awhile until I do. When I do get the time to check it, I will respond back on here regarding the cv joints. Thanks again so much for helping me out. This cars value now a days is around $1,000 or more and only has 100,000km on it, and I don't really want to spend more than its worth to fix it.

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