How do I fix the low rpm and loud noise my 93 dodge v6 dohc is making
I have a 93 Dodge Stealth was running fine. Got going down the road and noticed my
engine sounded more like a muscle car than a rice burner and then started to notice a
moajor loss of rpm. In first and second gear will get to 3000 rpm but sound as if it is at
9000rpm and any gear after first or second will not reach above 2500 rpm
Since you can afford a Stealth bring it to a shop and have them scan it and get the codes. Emc maybe going bad or it could be a seser going bad could be a cheap fix could cost you some money you will not know untill you have it scaned
sounds like ya done spun a bearing! hows the oil pressure ?? how many miles are on it ? and when was the last time you replaced to oil pump ?
When was the last time you did a good tune up on it?
Just bought the car the guy said a tune up was just done to it, have only drove the car for about 2k miles. Oil pressure seems to be fine. No leaks under the car. I recently replaced the fuel pump and filter in it, only trouble I had was the clutch switch is faulty, so that has been disconnected. The problems started as I was driving down the road. Was not putting any pressure on the car, just started loosing power and sounding really loud. I did just change the spark plugs also.
dude I really think you spun a bearing but where is the oil pressure gauge sitting at idle and at speed when at operating temp, not that that is a definite indicator as the stock gauge is known to be inaccurate but its better than nothing,, also how many miles are on it? could you post a clip of it running at idle and then bring the engine speed up a bit and hold it steady ?
Well i tried to embed a video the oil pressure never reaches more than half and I have 178k mile lets try this https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=662694500420831
well that was painful will the high pitch squeal lol ... well I take it back about the bearing,,, sorta sounds like you might have a backed up cat or some bad exhaust leak be better if you could start the video after or with out the squeal, and out side of the car maybe, you have any check engine lights ?
the squeal I refered to is the key/door buzzer,, by the way Daniel heres a write up on how to get rid of that key buzzer beeping noise http://stealth316.com/2-buzzer.htm
Yeah close the door. Sorry I did not know the squeal was comeing from the door busser. I did not watch the video
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=662968387060109 Sorry about the door beep earlier here is one without the door beep. It is not turbo. It's a 24v Dohc V6 5 speed.
so do you have a check engine light then ?
Yes i have a check engine light that stays on. I was going to get an OBD reader, but my car requires an OBD1 scanner which they dont make anymore only an OBD2 and OBD1 combined and I dont want to spend 300 dollars on that just doesnt seem worth it to me
if you have a voltmeter you can just read the codes at home heres some links to help you out on that ,, get the codes and holler back on what ya find out www.stealth316.com/2-diagcodes91-93.htm
hope those links help you out,, and like I say just do that and then get back to me with what you find out, by the way you can make your sanner by getting an app called mmcd a cheap palm pilot and a data logger cable but the voltmeter way is good way as well
what ya get figured out ???
Nothing yet going today to buy the indicator
cool let me know what ya find out
kind of confused I understand what it is saying of course but is there any video's of connecting the wire from chassis ground through a 470 ohm resistor to the cathode (-) of an LED and the anode (+) of the LED to the female spade lug and plug to pin 1, ( upper left pin on diagnostic connector )
not that I know of did you follow the write up I posted, should have everything ya need,, best way far as I know is to use a voltmeter instead of the test light method though
Yeah I got a multi-meter and the reading i got was 44 which is the 1 and 4 cylinder ignition coil
Sorry first code is 41 which is injector and second code is 44 which is 1 and 4 cylinder ignition coil... Would my faulty ignition coil cause the injector read?
no I don't think so ,,, you have the link with all the causes and fixes ??
44 Ignition coil, transistor #1-4 yes Harness & connector, Ignition coil, Power transistor unit
heres a link on how to test your PTU and odds are that's the culprit for the code 44 anyways, if that checks out good then we move to the coil pack www.stealth316.com/2-pwrtransunit.htm
and heres the link on testing the coil packs,,, I guess start with which ever is easiest to do the PTU or the coil packs http://www.stealth316.com/2-ignitioncoils.htm
if those test out good make sure there is a good solid and clean connections to the ptu and coils ,,, if your still having issues with the code 44 then I'd be inspecting the ECU ill start posting on your code 41 here next
41 Injector yes Harness & connector, Check injector coil resistance
I find this when I search on that code 41 (injector issue) "Last time I had an injector code there was a problem with the PTU" and If that's true then fixing your PTU could fix this and also suggests that its the PTU causing the code 44 and not the coil pack
heres a great link im pulling some of this info from, give that a read!!! http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/code-41-please-read-523084/
ok from what else I can find on the code 41 your ECU could be an issue like I thought already and your IACV could also be causing it as well,,, but I think that's least likely though ,,, id try to get the first code with the coil pack or PTU issue fixed first cause I also find that the PTU can cause issues with the injectors,,, if you get the coil pack/PTU problem fixed and your still having issues with the injectors then start looking at the ECU and OHM out the injectors, ill post a pic I seen with the ECU cover off pointing out the location if the board that controls the injectors
wow I cant seem to get the pic to post for whatever reason ,,, I tried several times but didn't post so if a ton of repeat pics pop up youll know why lol ,,, anyways that pic is just from that one link I put up soo its in there,,,
Oh I went ahead and bought an ignition coil they aren't but 30 bucks. Just waiting on it to get here in the mail. The injector issue i am going to have to take and go into a little more detail but something is just telling em to go ahead and bite the bullet and replace all 6 of my injectors which isn't but 300 bucks, I believe the injector read was already there before i started having the ignition coil issues.
Not looking forward to getting to the back 3 injectors though so will probably just take it to a mechanic after I have bought the parts.
well the injector issue could be from the PTU all the same,, maybe it wasn't that bad yet and so it did mess with the injectors yet,, I think you should just bite the bullet and do the work yourself and save hundreds of dollars, this work isn't hard to do at all,,, either way I could use and would really appreciate some helpful marks on my answers lol
Okay yes have marked helpful ones =). Sorry I have been wrapped up here lately. You have been most helpful. At least you didn't tell me if I can afford a Stealth I can afford to take it to a mechanic lol.
lmfao, actually im the other way,,, if you cant do the work yourself or afford to have it maintained you shouldn't of bought it but obviously you can do least some of the work and afford to pay for what you cant, thanks for the marks by the way
I was pulling a hill close to my home when all of the sudden my stealth r/t dohc lost power,When it did the pitch of the motor changed to a thuddy sound....It was also smoking badly ..I did manage to get it home .I had it towed to my mechanic .When they raised the car onto the rollback I noticed gasoline was dripping out of both exhaust. In hours the mechanic called and said it's fixed.Turned out it was an injector. It has driven perfectly since...I hoped that helped someone.
i would check for a slipped timing belt. I had the exact same thing happen to a 3000 GT DOHC. I got the same odes as you. I found that out because like you I had no clue & neither did anyone I took it to except for one car electrician who plugged in into a waveform monitor. My timing belt jumped as tooth, I replaced the tb & needed to replace the tensioner as well. Replacing the tensioner is a must when changing the tbv one these engines.
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