2005 Hyundai Santa Fe 4-wd 2.7L V6 quit running while driving, cranks but won't start. Replaced several parts, what else can be causing the problem?

Asked by Mar 26, 2016 at 08:52 PM about the 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 2.7L AWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Parts already replaced include:
ECU relay (EFI), crankshaft sensor, camshaft
sensor,coil pack, Engine Coolant Temp sensor, coil
pack, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator
It is getting spark, battery is good, fuses good in
both instrument panel & under hood. Injectors are
getting electricity  (tested), fuel pump primes (Can
hear it), fuel rails receiving fuel. I don't know what
else could be causing the problem. Could it be the
timing belt? The car has 160,000 miles on it. Any
advice would be greatly appreciated.

12 Answers

69,405

The timing belt is what I was thinking, but the problem is that motor is an interference engine, meaning if it jumped time or the timing belt broke, you probably have bent valves, so the motor will not run. At a 160,000 miles on it that belt should have ben the second timing belt installed, and it would have ben due to be changed at this point.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

Yes, I believe the timing belt has previously been replaced before I purchased it used. Any suggestions on visually checking to see if the timing belt is broken without tearing apart too much? Thanks for your quick reply. I'll post an update as I proceed.

69,405

There is a plastic cover over the cam gears on the front of the motor. You should be able to gain a visual access by taking it off. But if it is not broken there may be some teeth missing in the belt you may not be able to see. I hate to have you do a compression test as if the timing belt is broke, or jumped time, it would do more damage to the engine. But it would tell the story if there is..., or not any compression.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

Rowefast, You are correct, after taking off the plastic cover over the gears on the front of the motor it is visible that the timing belt is broken, as there is no tension on it, I'm beginning the tear down process today and hopefully the engine is not damaged. Thanks again for your quick reply and helpful advice. I'll keep you updated.

69,405

Before you get too crazy on this...this motor is an interference engine, meaning you may have more damage than the timing belt. Usually what would happen is there would be bent valves and possible piston damage.

I know how to get the the #1 cylinder to TDC but I don't know where the other cam should be, #2 fires next so should #2 be on the intake stroke at the same time?

69,405

I don't think you got what I said. Your engine is an interference engine, so when the timing went off, the valves hit the piston. The head would have to come off and repaired before that motor will run again.

I understand the interference, my question is how to get the timing marks back to where they need to be in order to install the new belt.

69,405

If you know where the timing marks are suppose to be you can slowly rotate the cam gears by hand to the proper timing position. Same with the crank shaft pulley.

Ok, I've been turning them by hand. Is there a specific order to find alignment (crankshaft before camshaft or visa versa) beside the alignment marks? When I have the camshafts aligned with marks, then rotate camshaft, it gets close to the alignment mark, but hits resistance before lined up.

69,405

They have videos on you tube on how to do this you may want to watch. I don't know what the resistance feels like if it is the valve hitting the piston solid or spongy. If it is spongy you can still keep moving it unless it gets solid feeling. Don't think it matters if you line the timing mark up first on the crank shaft or the cam shafts.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Ok, thank you for all your help.

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