I have a 96 Silverado that won't start

1,340

Asked by Feb 17, 2015 at 11:22 PM about the 1996 Chevrolet C/K 1500 Cheyenne Standard Cab SB 4WD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have replaced ignition coil, Ignition
module, distributor cap and rotor, injectors,
fuel filter, pump, air temp sensor, coolant
temp sensor I've checked fuses. It turns
over just fine but won't fire off even when I
use starting fluid. I can't think of what it
could be. Can anyone help me figure out
what it is.

22 Answers

98,415

What are the trouble codes?

2 of 2 people found this helpful.
69,345

Do you have spark and fuel? If so, run a compression test. If all cylinders test low, it's jumped timing. Since it won't run off of starting fluid there's either no spark or it's jumped timing. HTH. -Jim

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
1,340

There are no codes and if it is the timing how would I fix that It did say in the computer that spark advance was at -30 that can be changed on the distributor but is timing that easy?

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
69,345

I'm actually referring to valve timing. Your valves must open and close at specific times in relationship to piston travel. This gives you compression in the cylinders, usually 150 PSI or higher. If the timing chain jumps you'll lose compression because the valves will be opening and closing at the wrong time. When that happens the engine won't run. To fix it the timing chain and sprockets must be replaced. It's a big job. HTH. -Jim

1,340

I'll test the compression and I'll see where it goes from there

98,415

The distributor is also the cam sync sensor, so if you have turned the distributor or replaced then the sync signals between the cam and crank are not correct. You can ball park the cam sync setting by putting the engine on TDC #1 and realinging the distributor on #1 firing position. Also the engine will not run if either sensor is bad, cam or crank

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
1,340

OK I just tested compression and it showed 180 psi I put a new coil on last night does it have to be connected to the bracket for it to be grounded out and work right? And how do I do what you mententioned about the TDC #1?

69,345

180 PSI on all cylinders is good. Yes, the coil must be bolted down to be grounded. Since you have spark, fuel and compression, did you move the distributor? If so, the ignition timing is off. Remove the #1 spark plug and place your thumb over the hole. Have a helper bump the starter until you start feeling compression against your thumb. Now look at the crankshaft pulley. You may have to clean it off but there should be a timing mark on the harmonic balancer which is what the pulley bolts to. On the block you'll see a sawtooth gauge with numbers on it. Again, you'll have to clean it off to see it. Bump the starter until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the 0 on the sawtooth. Now, remove the distributor cap. Is the rotor lining up with the #1 cylinder spark plug wire tower? It should be. To adjust, loosen up the bolt that holds the distributor down. Do NOT remove it. Turn the distributor so that the rotor lines up with the #1 spark plug tower position. Replace the distributor cap, tighten down the bolt to secure the distributor. Try to start it. You may have to move the distributor again as your helper cranks the engine. But this should get you going. The next step will be to set the ignition timing to specs using a timing light. But for now let's just try to get you started and running again. HTH. -Jim

98,415

Js08016 stated it correctly about finding TDC on #1 but as this is a computer controlled ignition unit you may have to remove the distributor to get to number one, you will only have lift it enough to clear the drive gear on the cam to accomplish this, after the distributor is no #1 and if everything else in in operational order it should fire and run, to complete the timing sequence a dealer can do a sync reset procedure that will set it back to factory default. That is of course optional, if it runs good and no check engine light is on the computer can find the optimum firing sequence.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
845

I'm just curious to know...did you get the truck going?? I'm having the same issues with my 96

1,340

No I didn't I traced it down to the pump...I'm only getting 9 volts to the plug on the pump when I should be getting 12. I replaced the relay showed same volts. What could cause this to drop volts in the circuit after the relay?

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
69,345

Have you checked the voltage at the battery? With the truck not running you should have battery voltage at the pump. HTH. -Jim

69,345

I ran into a situation last weekend similar to yours. Have you removed and cleaned the spark plugs? My Niece's Husband's car wouldn't start last Saturday. He had spark (to the plugs) and fuel. Wouldn't run off starting fluid either. We removed and cleaned the spark plugs and it fired right up. The spark plugs were gasoline fouled. HTH. -Jim

1,340

The plugs are new and we cleaned them. I had a buddy come over yesterday and he did a bunch of tests and he sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it fired right up and ran fine but when I would give it gas it bogged down. Its because there's not enough power to the pump but I've traced it past the relay and there's 12 volts until the wire goes into a box on the firewall and I don't know where it it goes from there. I need to know how the wiring from the the battery to the pump works.

98,415

I had a 96 Tahoe that the red wire from the battery to the power distribution box went bad due to internal corrosion, replaced the wire and all of my voltage loss problems went away. Have you checked underneath the power distribution center?

1,340

Where is that?

98,415

Follow the red wire from your battery to it, it's located on the drivers side.

1,340

OK and what about the grey wire. How many volts should that carry with the key on?

98,415

There is no gray wire from the battery, unless someone has put it in. A pic would help, trying to do this sight unseen can be difficult.

1,340

There a grey wire going to the fuel pump it would be a lot easier if you text me and a lot quicker I need to get it done as soon as possible. You can text me at 501-270-0207

200

Change your distributor

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
845

Okay my truck is fixed!!! It was distributor cap and rotor. The vent underneath was clogged with gunk so the poor thing couldn't breathe! Thanks for all answers Suzanne

Your Answer

C/K 1500

Looking for a Used C/K 1500 in your area?

CarGurus has 880 nationwide C/K 1500 listings starting at $3,195.

ZIP:

Chevrolet C/K 1500 Experts

  • #1
    Andrew Olsen
    Reputation
    3,550
  • #2
    John Saffrahn
    Reputation
    2,550
  • #3
    Rowefast
    Reputation
    2,150
View All

Related Models For Sale

Used GMC Sierra 1500
792 Great Deals out of 68,347 listings starting at $1,699
Used Ford F-150
2,224 Great Deals out of 182,699 listings starting at $1,500
Used Chevrolet C/K 2500
197 listings starting at $6,499
Used Dodge Ram 1500
412 Great Deals out of 10,725 listings starting at $1,500
Used Chevrolet Tahoe
648 Great Deals out of 36,708 listings starting at $1,800
Used Toyota Tacoma
561 Great Deals out of 42,351 listings starting at $2,999
Used Chevrolet Camaro
424 Great Deals out of 31,920 listings starting at $2,395
Used Chevrolet S-10
7 Great Deals out of 1,276 listings starting at $1,800

Content submitted by Users is not endorsed by CarGurus, does not express the opinions of CarGurus, and should not be considered reviewed, screened, or approved by CarGurus. Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use.