I have a 96 Silverado that won't start
I have replaced ignition coil, Ignition
module, distributor cap and rotor, injectors,
fuel filter, pump, air temp sensor, coolant
temp sensor I've checked fuses. It turns
over just fine but won't fire off even when I
use starting fluid. I can't think of what it
could be. Can anyone help me figure out
what it is.
What are the trouble codes?
Do you have spark and fuel? If so, run a compression test. If all cylinders test low, it's jumped timing. Since it won't run off of starting fluid there's either no spark or it's jumped timing. HTH. -Jim
There are no codes and if it is the timing how would I fix that It did say in the computer that spark advance was at -30 that can be changed on the distributor but is timing that easy?
I'm actually referring to valve timing. Your valves must open and close at specific times in relationship to piston travel. This gives you compression in the cylinders, usually 150 PSI or higher. If the timing chain jumps you'll lose compression because the valves will be opening and closing at the wrong time. When that happens the engine won't run. To fix it the timing chain and sprockets must be replaced. It's a big job. HTH. -Jim
I'll test the compression and I'll see where it goes from there
The distributor is also the cam sync sensor, so if you have turned the distributor or replaced then the sync signals between the cam and crank are not correct. You can ball park the cam sync setting by putting the engine on TDC #1 and realinging the distributor on #1 firing position. Also the engine will not run if either sensor is bad, cam or crank
OK I just tested compression and it showed 180 psi I put a new coil on last night does it have to be connected to the bracket for it to be grounded out and work right? And how do I do what you mententioned about the TDC #1?
180 PSI on all cylinders is good. Yes, the coil must be bolted down to be grounded. Since you have spark, fuel and compression, did you move the distributor? If so, the ignition timing is off. Remove the #1 spark plug and place your thumb over the hole. Have a helper bump the starter until you start feeling compression against your thumb. Now look at the crankshaft pulley. You may have to clean it off but there should be a timing mark on the harmonic balancer which is what the pulley bolts to. On the block you'll see a sawtooth gauge with numbers on it. Again, you'll have to clean it off to see it. Bump the starter until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the 0 on the sawtooth. Now, remove the distributor cap. Is the rotor lining up with the #1 cylinder spark plug wire tower? It should be. To adjust, loosen up the bolt that holds the distributor down. Do NOT remove it. Turn the distributor so that the rotor lines up with the #1 spark plug tower position. Replace the distributor cap, tighten down the bolt to secure the distributor. Try to start it. You may have to move the distributor again as your helper cranks the engine. But this should get you going. The next step will be to set the ignition timing to specs using a timing light. But for now let's just try to get you started and running again. HTH. -Jim
Js08016 stated it correctly about finding TDC on #1 but as this is a computer controlled ignition unit you may have to remove the distributor to get to number one, you will only have lift it enough to clear the drive gear on the cam to accomplish this, after the distributor is no #1 and if everything else in in operational order it should fire and run, to complete the timing sequence a dealer can do a sync reset procedure that will set it back to factory default. That is of course optional, if it runs good and no check engine light is on the computer can find the optimum firing sequence.
I'm just curious to know...did you get the truck going?? I'm having the same issues with my 96
No I didn't I traced it down to the pump...I'm only getting 9 volts to the plug on the pump when I should be getting 12. I replaced the relay showed same volts. What could cause this to drop volts in the circuit after the relay?
Have you checked the voltage at the battery? With the truck not running you should have battery voltage at the pump. HTH. -Jim
I ran into a situation last weekend similar to yours. Have you removed and cleaned the spark plugs? My Niece's Husband's car wouldn't start last Saturday. He had spark (to the plugs) and fuel. Wouldn't run off starting fluid either. We removed and cleaned the spark plugs and it fired right up. The spark plugs were gasoline fouled. HTH. -Jim
The plugs are new and we cleaned them. I had a buddy come over yesterday and he did a bunch of tests and he sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it fired right up and ran fine but when I would give it gas it bogged down. Its because there's not enough power to the pump but I've traced it past the relay and there's 12 volts until the wire goes into a box on the firewall and I don't know where it it goes from there. I need to know how the wiring from the the battery to the pump works.
I had a 96 Tahoe that the red wire from the battery to the power distribution box went bad due to internal corrosion, replaced the wire and all of my voltage loss problems went away. Have you checked underneath the power distribution center?
Where is that?
Follow the red wire from your battery to it, it's located on the drivers side.
OK and what about the grey wire. How many volts should that carry with the key on?
There is no gray wire from the battery, unless someone has put it in. A pic would help, trying to do this sight unseen can be difficult.
There a grey wire going to the fuel pump it would be a lot easier if you text me and a lot quicker I need to get it done as soon as possible. You can text me at 501-270-0207
Change your distributor
Okay my truck is fixed!!! It was distributor cap and rotor. The vent underneath was clogged with gunk so the poor thing couldn't breathe! Thanks for all answers Suzanne
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