1998 K-2500 Turn key to on and everyone's happy. Turn to start and nothing makes a oise and the lights shut off

Asked by Oct 15, 2015 at 06:42 PM about the 1998 Chevrolet C/K 2500 Silverado Extended Cab SB 4WD

Question type: General

1998 K-2500  Turn key to on and everyone's happy.  Turn to start and
nothing makes a noise and the lights shut off.  Charged battery, checked all
fuses, checked the wiring.

19 Answers


Still sounds like a bad or dirty cable, make sure all of the main connections are shiny clean, none of the black corrosion that so many people miss when cleaning cable ends and posts.

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GM side post terminals are always a problem,you should load test the battery for free at the auto parts store just to be sure .then before re tightening the terminals......cut off all of the rubber that surrounds the circle terminal on the cable.this will make the bolt come loose so be careful not to drop it.once you have all of the rubber off,the round terminal will fit flush against the battery post and will solve the problem 90 percent of the time. You might have to use a 3/8 washer between the bolt and terminal so the threads are not too long,,,I do this to all GM vehicles I own and almost always solves cranking and charging issues

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Done the above. No doubt will do it again, I'm not perfect. But, shouldn't I hear clunk or a tick...something?


Not really, low voltage or amperage usually doesn't make any noise.

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any luck?

Nope. Did the shade tree test of crossing the posts on the starter. It turned it over fine. So to me, that said two things. 1, the cable from the battery to the starter is fine and 2, the starter works.


Here's a wiring diagram, I'd check the mains first.

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Maybe try shifting to neutral to rule out the safety switch or jiggle the shifter around,you obviously don't have an amperage problem if the starter activates.....maybe the microchip key????

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a 98 has a chip? I didnt think that it did. I'll definately look at that further. I played with the shifter to rule out the neutral safety. So my assumption is correct that if I can short it across and the starter does it's job, then it has nothing to do with the battery or its connection? I found a boat load of wires that go all over in the cab, But it still is confusing mostly because I re-did everything I took loose to change the lifters. Any way to bench test the relay?

ok, so, pretty vague area, the security chip thing. As I had removed the battery prior to pulling the intake manifold, I assumed it might work to run the re-learning procedure. It didn't. So, Symptoms: Engine will not turn using the ignition key. Key successfully turns on the vehicle. Dash lights light up - One exception, the PRNDL Light goes out. Most lights, and the headlights go out after Ignition is turned to "Start" Security and Service engine lights are on Attempts: Cleaned battery contacts Changed Battery Charged Battery SHorted starter contacts (Engine turned over as desired) Checked wiring harness. Checked all fuses and relays (not just the ignition ones) Attempted "relearn" process. What am I missing


Maybe this will help.

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Well in the alternate universe that I understand that schematic...lol. I'm gonna earn it though. Right now I really need clear instructions as to how to isolate the problem. I understood most of the symbols except P101.


Bulkhead grommet or connector, it is just a ground circuit that you can add another ground if you feel it is bad through the conn connector. OK

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My 98 S10 had a chip key and my current 94 Formula Firebird has a chip key...I'm not an expert but been around the block a few times ...I'm leaning towards chip key...keep it simple....you have a factory spare on another key ring? Try it for fun

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I would bu i don't have another key. Guess I could go to a dealer to get one made? It would almost be cheaper than the bypass module I've been reading about. All this is has been great advice. I'm just gonna have to have it towed. Seems beyond my capability. Thanks y'all

Ok here is where I'm at. I turn the ignition on and jump the connections under the starter relay and the engine can be started. It doesn't stay running, and i'm still not getting anything when I turn to tkey to start. Starter is good, battery is good. Disconnected the neg terminal and tried to reset the ecm, additionally went through the key re-learning process three times, no help. So aside from the ecm's health, it it gets juice in all the right places. Where do I look now


Check for power on the small wire on the starter solenoid for power when you turn the key to crank, if you have no power then check the ignition switch for power when you put it in the crank position, see the pic I sent you the first time about the mains. I suspect you have a bad ignition switch but testing is needed.

well the starter wire is a gimee. It starts when I jump relay connection It's just seemingly not getting the signal from the ing switch. Also, it dies right after starting?


Still could be the ignition switch.

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