getting fire from coil but not to plugs

Asked by Jun 12, 2013 at 07:05 PM about the 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 4 Dr SLT 4WD Extended Cab SB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 it died going down the road it is getting fire from the coil to the distributer
but not to the plugs I have already replaced the distributer cap and rotor and still does the same thing
what would cause this

35 Answers


Is the distributor rotor turning? Is the coil output high enough to get through the distributor rotor/cap air gap?

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.

Yes the distributer is turning but I dont know if it is getting enough fire how do check that

8 out of 8 people think this is helpful.

The coil on that year should be able to make a bright blue spark at least a half of an inch long. If you are good at it you can have someone crank the engine over while you hold the coil wire from the distributor close to the engine block and watch the color of the spark but be careful, if you don't do it right and the spark uses you as the ground path welll lets just say it will really curl your hair.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

It only sparks about a 1/4 of a inch and its kinda orange and blue

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Sounds a little weak. Do you have another coil?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

No but if you think thats what it is I will get one


Let's try one more test. now remove the wire from the coil and have someone crank it over, the spark should jump out of the tower and flash to the case of the coil, if it won't do that then yes replace the coil, if it does flash over then the coil wire is bad, Have you ever replaced the ignition wires?

7 out of 7 people think this is helpful.

No I have never replaced the ignition wires


Might be a good idea to do that. Did you do the last test?

Just tryed it and it is not jumping at all


Yep, replace the coil.


I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.9L and replaced spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, and still had a miss problem going on when i floored it. I noticed every time it rained it got worse and eventually the engine died out on me all together driving home from work oneday about a block from my house. My neighbor and I got the truck to my drive way where we started checking for spark using the screw driver to frame method while cranking over the engine and had nothing on the spark plug wires coming from the distributor. We then tested using the same method using the ignition coil wire and had a light pink to orange arc. Ran same test at the coil itself to rule out faulty wire with same result. Once I took off the ignition coil it self, I then checked the resistance through the coil using an ohm meter and compared the results to my handy shop manual. The coil was out of tolerance reading through the primary and completely dead through the secondary... I also had a big crack in the bottom of the ignition coil where water and moisture could have been causing my problem when it rained. Once I replaced the coil, the truck fired up immediately. I took the truck around the block flooring it with absolutely no miss at all. I had been having this miss problem for a very long time and learned something through the process. As I pulled the truck in the driveway from my road test, my neighbor says "NOW THATS THE BIGGEST SHIT EATEN GRINN IF I EVER SAW ONE"... Lol... Thought I would pass this info. onto the poor unfortunate fools dealing with the same problem.

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.

Yep....weak coil is pretty common. More common than a distributor failure...cause the coil has to repeatedly ramp up and fire energy so's doing a lot of work!

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I got a 98 Chevy k2500 getting fire from coil but not to my plugs I've changed cam sensor crank sensor coil an distributor but still no spark at plugs any suggestions

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

So if your coil has a good bright blue spark but there is no spark at the distributor tower then the coil wire is bad, if there is fire at the tower but not out of the spark plug connectors on the distributor cap then it could be the distributor rotor or a carbon tracked distributor cap, if you have spark out of the plug wire connectors on the cap but not at the plug end, then the plug wires are bad.

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

I have a 99 dodge ram 1500 it will run but shuts off after a while and will start after a couple hours run again and shut off again but every time it sits a couple hoursit will start back what's wrong

17 out of 17 people think this is helpful.

would it be the same in a 93 Cherokee Laredo?

Replace your coil

I have spent a lot money in my 98 3500 5.7 Chevy. From everything new coil, distibutor, crank senor, timing chain, harmonic balancer, margle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. Truck ran for two weeks and then started spuddering on take off and died out and will not crank now. What I'm getting is not enough spark. To my number one spark plug, it's pinkish blue and not pluges are wet with fuel. Machnic said it not enough fire to all eight of my pluges. Please help with any suggestions.


Spark should be a brilliant blue not yellow or pinkish, check the spark at the coil itself and if it is the same color replace the coil, if it is a brilliant blue at the coil then check it at the coil wire at the distributor end if it is a brilliant blue there Great, if not replace the coil wire even though it is new it can still go bad, so if you have good spark at that end then check the brilliance out of the distributor cap if it brilliant there then replace the entire spark plug wire set if not replace the cap and rotor with a better set. HTH

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Had the same problem with my 1988 dodge ,lol

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

1998 GMC Sierra 4.3 liter getting fired to call but not to the pub

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Deciphered as fire from coil but not at the plugs I think. so check these: coil wire, distributor rotor and cap, plug wires.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

i have a 77 dodge w200. This has happened on several occasions where i will work on the truck changing coil, setting air gap, plugs, wires and nothing changes, will not start. No spark anywhere. Then i walk by the truck a week or so later and it starts. Last time i let it sit for 2 weeks and since then i have not been able to start it. what i noticed with someone helping me, after trying 3 coils, two different distributors, new ignition module, hot wire from battery to coil and starter thus by passing key, still no spark. also attached ground from battery directly to coil mounting bolt. nothing seems to get me spark. Cursed this electronic ignition more than once. (oh yes i have had the carb off this truck 6 times in a month, that gooooooooood gas we buy now days just seems to gum up in the carb). any ideas?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I have had several Chrysler rig through the years and every one of them seem to loose the ignition module ground intermittently and the connector failing at the ignition module, also if you have the dual resistor block one side fails and the other is good so either you get coil power with the key on but disappears when you crank it over. See basic pic. As far as this crap for fuel I have used Marine StaBil to combat the bad stuff that happens and it really helps but it needs to be marine not the regular stuff. HTH

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.

I have a 94 inline 6 have no spark. Shot ether in the carb nothing. Changes distributor button, cap, coil, and ignition module still nothing am I missing something??????


You would get more responses by starting a new thread cause this one is dealing with Chrysler. But as your here and Chrysler hasn't made an inline 6 for years it must be a Ford, so it sounds like a typical Ford ignition module failure, so you do not get a trigger signal to the ignition coil. See pic.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

this thread started out as a Dodge thread and turned into to a Chevy thread!


Back to dodge. .. I have a 01 ram 1500 w/360. It had all the symptoms of coil failure. Sputtering backfire, hard start in the cold, idle issues fuel econ getting worse and worse . Blah blah... died on me Monday and won't start. No spark going to distributer etc. Take it into shop. .. dealer says it's the crank shaft positioning sensor. .. is that right? ? I'm just a girl n all... but wouldn't it make sense to start w/the coil and wire first??

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Sekhmet83 I would suggest you start a new thread with your question, you will get more responses, if the dealer was doing it correctly they should have pulled the codes and that would have told them the crank sensor was bad. next time try an independent shop, they are cheaper on both parts and labor and you get just as good of a job sometimes better than a dealer. HTH

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Ok. Cool. I will do. there where no codes up when she died.. I checked...key thing. . I'm wanting to learn more so I can do it. F the middle guy. Haha! But thanks eh?!

hei I have a mazda mx 6 kl engine 2.5 i24 valve,after tune up no spark,what can cause that?

coil power with the key on but disappears when you crank it over This is happening to me, what is it? Dodge Ram, 1500 v6 99' New button, cap, and pick up, new coil, new coil and plug wires Squirrels got in and chewed through (TPS, o2, fuel injector, distributor pick up) wires I have cut crimped and replaced all wires, pick up wires had to be changed with heavier gauge wire so resistance is off Rotar is spinning

I have a 96 ram 1500 5.2. ran fine shut her down and the next day no start. Changed coil, crank sensor, (and was a whole lot of no fun), relays and pcm. no start. when I turn the key on I don't hear any relays click. no communication with the scanner either. The ignition test 12v on all wires with 1 ground untill asked to start then that one goes 12v. Please help...


No com with scanner is not good, sounds like you have covered the basics, I'm sure you have already checked the main fuses and the normal accessories fuses, so now it time to get down and dirty, I suggest that you purchase a good shop manual, one with wiring diagrams and a component locator list, then you are going to have to test the power and ground entry points to the ECM at the ECM plug, then move on to the sensor reference voltage and sensor grounds. I have had a few Dodges get corrosion in the bulkhead connector where it goes through the firewall, but I'm sure you already though of that. I hope that by then you have found the problem. Yes this is going to be very labor intensive, so if you don't feel confident enough then refer it to the professionals.

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